Do you reckon they make drag or help ‘propell’ like greenough’s spoon 11" fins?
I ask as I normally use a 7" Fin on my Single but its plastic and I want to try out a 10" fibreglass one I have.
Josh.
Do you reckon they make drag or help ‘propell’ like greenough’s spoon 11" fins?
I ask as I normally use a 7" Fin on my Single but its plastic and I want to try out a 10" fibreglass one I have.
Josh.
This fin except in floral… I I
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how big is your single fin , Josh ?
ben
I can’t see the pic?? But mine is real big! 10"
yes , I know the fin is 10" , you said that … (I meant the single fin BOARD , Josh !)
here’s the photo of a small board with a big fin …a single keel on a 4’ board.
here ya go Josh …
Thanks Chip! The board is 6’1".
I used to use big, rakey, single fins on my short boards, not unlike the fin on the right in the pic in the encounters thread, the pic with chip holding three fins.
I played a lot with size and area, trying to find the fin that matched my expectations, moving them back and forward to fine tune.
There’s good and bad in big and small, but the drive and power you can get out of big fins in small boards can be the difference between making a section or a flying pivot off the top.
Again, you may feel you have to work a bit harder, maybe change and improve technique, but to me the benefits are well worth it. Then next time you jump on a smaller or multi-finned board you will find yourself overpowering it.
Result is you become a better surfer, and understand your boards and fins better.
Fin sizing only has to match your style, your board’s width, and the waves.
6’ board and fins up to 11" is fine.
If you gots no power, then use smaller fin.
If you never spin out, use smaller fin.
Fin template will dictate how deep what depth is needed for a given board. More hight aspect (shorter base & more vertical) fins will have to be deeper to give holding power. Lower aspect fins (longer base & more rake) will give greater stability and stiff en the board with realitively less depth. Consider the conditions and how you want you board to act and go from there & and that having a Bayne Box in the board will allow you to tune board action with a given fin. Once you get the right one just moving a little will set you up for the lower and higher limits of the board just fine.
We all have our favorite single fin templates.
Each session is just another experiment.
Mahalo, Rich
Thanks all!!!
no power, use a smaller fin???
If YOU got’s no power, use a smaller fin.
If YOU turn with power and extension, use more fin.
Would surfing a big fin then make you more powerful?
no
Would surfing a big fin then make you more powerful?
Well, I suppose in the sense that lifting heavy weights (eventually) makes you stronger.
Anyway, let’s not forget that there are “big fins” and then there are “big fins”. Along with height/depth of the fin one must consider it’s overall shape (like it may be a 9" but have a fairly small base and be really raked back like a Harbour HP or it could be 9" and be one of those D shaped 60s longboard fins. Quite a difference…
tip loading the template of the fin
as in paddle fins or the one you pictured ,seem to be capable of gagging the quick adjustment turns where as the trimmed out tapered template allow a smooth transition from fin turning to rail turning.
flat flat bottoms are fin dependant!
slight roll to displacememt rounds as well as contored bottoms allow more rail facilitation.
big fin alone not an answer
a balanced fin>board relationship is somewhat critical.
your values may require and develop into an independant
sensability.
greenenough stage 5 worked well on velo and it was way round bottom
or so I am led to brlieve
…ambrose… then there’s a velzy full area fin 11’',whoa daddy
So is a Greenough 4a an example of a “High Aspect” fin? How 'bout a Liddle Flex Fin?