If i have to go with this i probably try to route eps clean one inch deep then glue thicker eps foam with pu foaming glue so i can shape a new deck.
2 Likes
(chuckling) - ya know, we all need to understand the irony in our livesā¦as I wash down my cholesterol and high blood pressure pills with coffee, cream and sugar.
In any event- 40 PSI surprises me, but okay. Itās (pour foam) a quick and dirty way to make up the missing volume. But do scrape out any of the old foam that is even marginal, just to make me feel better.
Umm, the pour foam tends to go off to a pale brown, no? Well, for the voids, use a little gorilla glue. Itās a polyurethane water catalysed (a touch with a plant mister) foaming ( void filling) adhesive, pretty much like the foam. The regular stuff is a pale brown, if color matters they make a white (expensive)) version. Either one is easy,fast and wonāt give you any hard spots.
Now, bear in mind that you are patching up ugly. Itās not a forever board after this. If you get five years out of it, be very pleased. And save up for something better. For instance, a nice little boat? Iām a fan of double-paddle canoesā¦
docā¦
Yes you can use Epoxy resin to glue the veneer back to the glass. Use a small paper cup and just pour it between the two layers and set a brick or something heavy on it. Go lightly poring it between. You donāt want to create a bigger mess than you already have. Turn it upright and let the excess drain out onto a piece of cardboard. Then put a brick or some form of weight on it until it sets. As far as reglue of the deck; again use Epoxy and a few bricks. You will have to sand your pour foam down just below the rail to compensate for the thickness of the deck skin. You can thicken your Epoxy resin with Cabosil. I would thicken it to the point of a paste. Then spread it on the deck foam nice and even. The paste will fill any holes or voids in your pour foam. Fit the glass back on and shrink wrap or use bricks to hold it down. The Q-cell comes in at this point. Use it to fill the cut line and any other holes, voids in the repair. Sand it all smooth . After everything has hardened put a layer of six oz. Or two layers of four over it. Hot coat and sand.
Excellent. Iād be very pleased to get anywhere close to 5 years out of it.
Since I will be scraping out a good bit, it seems possibly more efficient, cheaper and lighter to glue down a sheet of expanded polystyrene from the hardware store and then fill the rest with the pour foam. Any good ideas on ways to accomplish this? The old foam will have to be scraped pretty flat to get good adhesion. I donāt have a CNC router. Next best thing is maybe a large belt sander? And then how should it be glued down to the existing foam - the same epoxy resin Iāll be using for the glass bits?
Canāt give you tried and tested advice here , reading this with interest cause I have something similar coming up this summer , so after all the good advice here my approach would be very similar to your latest suggestion. At this point itās all blablabla, sorryā¦here it goes:
Iād mock something up that holds the bottom rocker in place to get a stable platform and probably just use some parallel wood rails outside the board as a reference ( think of the linear rails of a CNC) .
A level/ straight stick and a marker should do the job well enough to give me a rough guide . Thinking of using the router or a drill just to set some points for better visualization. Iād scrape it down by hand and use a long piece of wood with a 40 grit sandpaper to connect the dots. Most important tool should be the vacuum cleaner.
To glue in the eps sheets -I think -using foaming PU is a good idea.
To fill the gaps I am thinking of using a PU construction foam out of a can from the hardwarestore. But thatās just because I donāt know better.
What i do know is that it is a good idea to scrape the old eps out now , a let it dry for longer . EPS is very resistant to get really dry when itās sealed on one side.
No need cnc router, hand one. You can also try to sand eps as flat as possible with surform and sandpaper. Then you glue eps panel with PU foaming glue, it will fill gaps. Better is to use vacuum bag clamp but could work with weight. Not so hard work for someone with experience.
1 Like
ahmmmmm- okay,
First, putting in polystyrene foam. Youāre making the job more difficult, attempting to make a flat surface in there, with a router or a sander or for that matter an adze (yeah, a good sharp one would work remarkably well in the hands of an old school boat guy) ā¦but why? Instead of trying to make something work with the old, crappy and probably rotten in spots foam, get rid of it entirely.
And for that, Iād break out some putty knives. Take a file and put a chisel edge on them and use them to get all the old foam out. Scrape it out, right down to the inside of the bottom. Simple.
Yeah, you wind up using more pour foam, but you have a vastly simpler job. You donāt have to concern yourself with sticking foam to foam at all, which is good as you wouldnāt have much luck, again Iām thinking that the existing foam is marginal at best and once itās been wet it isnāt going to get better or dry out completely even if you try drying it for the rest of the reign of the current British monarch.
And pour foam is a urethane foam. So you can use nice cheap polyester resin on it. Likely more than making up for the cost of any additional pour foam.
Way simpler. If you absolutely must go with adding sheet foam and expense, well, sandwich some of that 1/4" PVC foam sheet between the layers of new glass (also done with polyester resin) on the deck. Use dense stuff. ( Divinycell PVC Foam Core, H-80 and H-100) It too is compatible with polyester resin, indeed itās what some paddleboard and surfboard factories in SE Asia use to toughen up the decks of their products and what they should have used building yoursā¦
If you really wanted to make it stupidly strong, thereās Coosa board ( Reinforced Fiberglass Panels | Coosa Bluewater) - not long ago I did the deck of a lobster boat with this stuff, 100 lb lobster traps slam into it all day. Overkill for your purposes but itās out there, if you were able to score some scrap from a boat yard.
Keep it simple. Thereās enough in this job already, adding complexity is something you donāt want to do.
docā¦
Ahhh. Just forget any and all of the above. Buy a used or new one. Forget about it.