Went for a Birthday surf on Sunday. Me and a buddy hoped to check out the point but the swell wasn’t as big as we thought it would be and there wasn’t enough juice to get it going, so we headed out to the bay, which was glassy and clean with a light off shore.
Nice defined sets, shoulder-head high. It was cold but the sun was out, I think it’s the first sunny surf I’ve had in about 5 months. The water was clear and blue as apposed to the usual brown/grey and not a cloud in the sky.
I’d put some home made fins in that I hadn’t used before as I’d busted one of my normal set a couple of weeks before and also taken some chunks out of the fins on my other board the week before and haven’t gotten round to fixing them up yet. They we really responsive and even better than the bought fins I’d been using, so def going to make more.
Any way I caught my best wave so far. As I took off the off shore picked it up, I made the drop and pulled off a real smooth bottom turn just as the lip folded over my head, I couldn’t believe it, its hard to describe but wow just unreal, I made it out but then it closed out and I didn’t make the section so tuned and stalled out the back of the white water.
I got luck but hopefully it wont be too long till I get another one, I’ve been waiting for that moment for a long while. There was a local guy on the beach taking photos who come up to us after the surf so hope I can get a picture of it too.
Any way I had a really great surf and followed it up with beer and watching my mates rock band that were actually surprisingly good too. Just thought I’d share it as it made me feel as stoked as a gremmie again.