Blank Bubbles

I am just putting the finishing touches on my blank before i glass it and i wanted to fill up some bubbles that were in the blank. Really small about bb size indentations. So i mixed some Q-cell and resing filled them up and sanded them down. This is the problem, i cant get them smooth i tried to sand just the Q-cell parts back down and i took too much of the foam down around the area. SO then i switched to using my foam rubber sanding block with 220 and it seemed to make little mounds that lead up to the Q-cell fills. SO before i skrew my m board up any further i turn to you guys for a solution. Please help I wish i would of just left the bubbles there and made sure that the resin got down into them when laminating.

Somethings are best left alone, this is one of them. To save your screw-up, you need to tape about 1/8" away from the repairs, to create a sanding shield, then you can get the harder than foam repairs down to the surface. Don’t do it again!

yeah resin and wood are alot harder to sand than foam, thats a bad idea with the qcell and resin a better one is DAP super lightweight spackle it sands and looks about the same.

Glue your sand paper to a piece of wood with disc adhesive to provide a very hard backing. Just a small piece of wood say 2" x 6" x 3/4 thick makes a good little block. The rubber block was flexing too much over the repair and getting the foam. Tape it off this time but don’t do that again! Spackle if you must. Krokus

i asked the bastard at fiberglass Hawaii if he ever heard of using spakal and he was dumbfounded (none of the staff had even built a board). He told me to use Q-cell and resin. I will tape it off and use a 2x4 sanding block. Thanks guys. How noticeable will the bumps be if i lam over them? Will i be able to sand the hotcoat smooth or will the bumps be noticeable?

Those little divots are typically caused by beads of sweat dripping off your face onto the blank. In the future, be mindful of the sweat. Lightweight spackle is the only way to go if you really want to fill them in. The stuff is blaring-white and sands quick so you don’t get resin mounds. If you glass over the mounds, they will project through the laminate so you would have to have a fairly thick hot coat to smooth them out without penetrating the weave. If they are barely noticeable at this point, just “take your lumps” and move on to the next step (glassing). You will do less damage to the board trying to smooth out the glass than trying to sand resin mounds off the foam.

easy on the “Fiberglass hawaii bastard” thing. Which location were you calling. I only use the santa Cruz locale. Always friendly and usually helpful. Remember, some of the kids there are just local kids just trying to make a buck and don’t know everyhing about everyting cause that is to much to know. that is what Swaylocks is for. Drew

I’ve used a mixture of foam dust, catalyzed lam resin and a tiny bit of white pigment. Use just enough to fill the void and leave it alone - don’t sand. There is also some stuff in a tube that Fiberglass Supply sells specifically for filling Clark Foam.

If you used a lot of Qcell (making the resin blob much more toolable) you might be able to run a sharp low angle block plane over it to cut it down (pretend that the little lump is a small stringer or glue line). If the resin is too hard or the plane not sharp enough, it might just catch and rip the resin blob out of the foam. There have been some good suggestions on this site for filling little holes - spackle, elmers white glue mixed with sugar or foam dust, resin blob with a LOT of Q-cell, etc.

I have good success with the lightweight spackle. The only problem I have had was when I airbrushed the area of the spackle. The paint seemed to stick more to the spackle then the surrounding foam. There was a definate difference.

Point taken Drew, all the people at Fiberglass Hawaii were trying there best to be helpful. It was my mistake i was just venting my frustration.

Howzit Drew, I was going to ask the same question about which Fiberglass Hawaii store he was referring to. The people who work at the Honolulu store are very akamai about surfboard construction. Aloha, Kokua

First thing, just go with surflab’s suggestion and make sure it’s the lightweight (low density) spackle and then secondly, and most importantly, go with “The Genius’” (Jim Phillips) suggestion for these air pockets…i’ve had some the size of a pistachio nut and that bugged the nuts out of me. Sounds like you already learned that though. If you’re going to paint or tint your board, then you’ll see the spackle cause the color takes to it differently than to foam. Still, just use a screen backed by a foam pad if you use these in your tool selection and your board will be level no problem. Hope this helps…