Blank Question

I’d like to shape a 6’4 egg with a 14" nose, 15" tail, 21" width by 2 7/8" thick. I’m hoping that someone out there could recomend what size blank would be best for this job. I’d like to keep the board pretty thick throughout with a low rocker. Has anyone run into any problems by taking too much foam off the bottom of a blank? I know the deck has to be planed lightly but what about deep cuts on the bottom? Thanks for the help and keep sharing the knowledge.

I’d like to shape a 6’4 egg with a 14" nose, 15" tail, 21" > width by 2 7/8" thick. I’m hoping that someone out there could > recomend what size blank would be best for this job. I’d like to keep the > board pretty thick throughout with a low rocker.>>> Has anyone run into any problems by taking too much foam off the bottom of > a blank? I know the deck has to be planed lightly but what about deep cuts > on the bottom?>>> Thanks for the help and keep sharing the knowledge. yes, you get "blank relaxation which changes the desired rocker so you have to keep adjusting etc. Although some say blanks today are better, they do still relax a bit. Try to get a blank to as close as the desired shape.

yes, you get “blank relaxation which changes the desired rocker so > you have to keep adjusting etc. Although some say blanks today are better, > they do still relax a bit. Try to get a blank to as close as the desired > shape. if you go a little shorter, maybe try the 6’2"C…it’s actually about 6’3 1/2” so you could get a solid 6’2" out of it and basically skin it to get your thickness. otherwise i’m curious to hear what people would go with. a 6’9"R or 6’11"R cut down might be good, although they might be a little thin for a finished 2 7/8"…

I’ve used the 6’2"C and 6’11"R. They both seemed to work fine but I’m not sure how they would work out for a thicker board. I think they’re both pretty close to the thickness I want. I was looking at the 7’4"R maybe. How much do you usually skin off the top of the blank?

I’ve used the 6’2"C and 6’11"R. They both seemed to work fine > but I’m not sure how they would work out for a thicker board. I think > they’re both pretty close to the thickness I want. I was looking at the > 7’4"R maybe.>>> How much do you usually skin off the top of the blank? Go w/ the “A” series blanks. Thicker old style blanks w/ less rocker. In my opinion for an egg I like the wide point forward of center, so switch your nose and tail dimensions making the nose a little wider than the tail. With a round, full board I like to ride it a ways up after the initial turn.

What Tim said. Positive offset is more standard for an egg. If you do go with negative offset, give the tail/bottom lots of “V”.>>> Go w/ the “A” series blanks. Thicker old style blanks w/ less > rocker. In my opinion for an egg I like the wide point forward of center, > so switch your nose and tail dimensions making the nose a little wider > than the tail. With a round, full board I like to ride it a ways up after > the initial turn.

If I cut a 20.5" board from a 23" blank, will I run into problems with cutting too deep into the soft foam core? Does the warning about not skinning too much from the deck apply to the rails?

I’ve used the 6’2"C and 6’11"R. They both seemed to work fine > but I’m not sure how they would work out for a thicker board. I think > they’re both pretty close to the thickness I want. I was looking at the > 7’4"R maybe.>>> How much do you usually skin off the top of the blank? i typically take only enough off the top to get it clean, at least under your feet, then foil the front. the last couple boards i’ve done have been really flat decks so i get rid of the crown and go thinner overall with boxier rails, but thats just preference. i might be crazy but theoretically a concave deck would seem better in terms of leverage and stability, like skateboards. i haven’t tried it yet but i’d like to hear what people say. obviously strength would decrease… but in terms of performance wouldn’t it be an advantage?

If I cut a 20.5" board from a 23" blank, will I run into > problems with cutting too deep into the soft foam core? Does the warning > about not skinning too much from the deck apply to the rails? …cut away.

I’ve used the 6’2"C and 6’11"R. They both seemed to work fine > but I’m not sure how they would work out for a thicker board. I think > they’re both pretty close to the thickness I want. I was looking at the > 7’4"R maybe.>>> How much do you usually skin off the top of the blank? Skin the deck with the planer as close to zero as possible, this will keep you in the hardest foam and still allow you to hold the thickness. You can plane as much off the bottom as need be. The strength will be less, but the deck takes the beatings. I use my sander to skin the nose area on the deck on the more rockered blanks. I don’t like the sander as a “shaping” tool, but at times it can be useful. I watch others mutilate blanks with the sander and swear they look great!

Concave decks do work. In the early eighties, clark had a 7’0"M blank. Geoff McCoy had designed the plug. Rabbit, Critta Byrne,Mark Warren and Cheyne used them for their Bronzed Aussie Boards. The blank was really thick, about 3-1/2". This gave it a lot of foam to work with. After the center cut, I tilted the bed on the band saw about 4 degrees and set up a fence nearly touching the blade. I ran both halves of the blank across the saw and glued it with the deck now concave. The bottom was “veed” deeply, but with the extra thickness I could remove it in the front portion and flatten the tail area. I left some of the “v” in the area ahead of the fins. It was tought to skin the deck with the concave so I used a router with a 2" bit to get into the bottom of the concave and up into the nose rocker. It was a 5’10" double wing round pin, 19-1/2" wide with 2 sets of mini fin boxes set side by side. Each set of boxes had a different degree of toe in. One session at Steamers, I had my front side fin pointing tight to the nose and my cutback fin straight ahead. My bottom turn felt like I was sliding but was sort of steering through the turn. The top turn was stiff and forceful with brute drive from it. The turn off the top gave me mucho speed for the go cart four wheel drift off the bottom. It was a freaky sensation to say the least, but never the less a different approach to surfing a wave. Jim

What Tim said. Positive offset is more standard for an egg. If you do go > with negative offset, give the tail/bottom lots of “V”. What is “positive offset and negative offset?” Thanks.