Board #3... 12' SUP

hello there human fish all over the world,

it’s me again.

just finished shaping a 12’ SUP for a friend and

after making two white boards I want to do some color.

soon i’ll post pic’s from the process ,

in the meantime, I have some questions regarding the color stuff.

glass schedule for the sup is going to be 6-6 top and 6 bottom on 30kg eps.

I have a 7’4" funboard which is colored like a blue “FA” soap.

it differs from all the resin swirls i’ve seen on youtube

because the lines are relatively straight along the board.

  1. what is the name of this color scheme?

I have blue and white pigments for the epoxy,

2)I’m wondering if there is any matter if I add the pigment to a mixed resin+hardner or should i add it to only one of them

perior to mixing ?

  1. the most important question- HOW? how do I make this color scheme?

any help appriciated,

thanks,

Lee

Hi Lee!

You mix the pigment to the resin+hardener-mixture not only to one of them.

About the tint… - No clue! Sorry!

Cheers Kilian

I have streaked the finish coat to look a lot like that, though in my case it was gray streaked with black.

To mimic that streaked board using UV cure poly resin, I would pour on, long stroke, cross stroke and tip stroke a finish coat in white, then while the resin was still wet, streak it with long strokes of a brush dipped in blue. For variety you can wobble the blue brush as you go down the length of the board.

Once streaked, let it sit for a few minutes to level out, then move it out into bright sunlight to cure it quickly.

Cautions: 1. This is art, not science, and your results will be different every time. 2. If you splash too much blue on, it may sag, especially near the rails. 3. To avoid sags you want to use UV cure because it can be cured almost immediately once you are done stroking it out. 4. Sags can be partially sanded out using wet/dry paper (220 grit) if they happen.

As far as the color job

looks like

medium blue with white pigment

and it looks like it was poured down the middle then down the sides in straight pours (parallel)

then sqweegeed in the same direction as the pours

you can see the mudded light blue swipes in between the pours

looks like a 60% blue with 40% white

mix the colors separatly add cat then pour the whit into the blue One stir and pour

thanks to all of u for the input,

I decided to give up on this pigment-epoxy method and go for something easier and “safer” for me.

spackeled the board with a thin layer of “Red devil” “onetime” , light sanded , taped and spray painted

with "Dupli color - aqua acryl " .

sorry for the lousy pic’s ’ it’s from a cellphone:

after I stripped the tape off, I saw that even ater spackeling the lines aren’t perfect. ( damn EPS)

actually I knew it’s not going to be perfect and my original plan was to make a filler coat with clear epoxy over the lines where the white and blue meet. then making black pinlines over the blue-white line with a waterbased sharpie.

I thought this is the way to hide the imperfections when painting on such surfaces.

now, the thing is that I really really like it “as is” , and I don’t want to make a black pinline.

how should I deal with it?

I was thinking of folowing the “filler coat” method and tape again and instead of the black sharpie , spary again to make a nice blue line.

what do you say? any idea?

thanks,

lee.


Hey Lee-jordan

You say you used red devil ontime spackle.

That is a product from bunnings in OZ right??

If you are in OZ, I am curious to know where you got your EPS from.

Cheers

on the red devil’s bucket it’s written " made in usa".

I wish I were from OZ but i’m from Israel.

and the EPS is made at a factory 15km from my home.

sorry I couldn’t help.

Lee.

Sorry wasn’t sure.

Just having troubles finding EPS at a reasonable price here in OZ.

Cheers

if you want we can switch…

take my life and never run out of Eps

give me your’s and I’ll never run out of waves

ok,

finished painting on the blank ( pic’s soon)

now I’m gonna rout the 10" fin box.

this board is double stringered and the box will not

have any support so i’m thinking of routin a hole for the fin box

at this stage and reinforcing the hole with 6oz…

then hotcoat , put finbox in place, sanding —> waxing and surfing

doe’s it sound like a good idea??? ( this reinfocement stuff?)

another question-

board’s measures are 8" squash tail,

12’ x 20.5"n x 31.5" x 17.5"t x 4.5"

where should I place the fin box? how far from the tail?

also thinkin’ of side biters… same question?

thanks,

lee

MDS

RMAX is a national supplier of rigid plastics

27 Chifley Street

Smithfield NSW 2164

Telephone: +61 2 9609 6088

Facsimile: +61 2 9604 7747

They have what you want, because of the vol/weight freight is a killer. I buy two blocks and collect them myself from Qld.

Boardbumps

lee,

do reinforce the finbox. just be sure to use slow hardener, and keep it cool in temperature. I melted some eps once doing this, and it was difficult to fix.

edit: by the way, i helped a friend glass a 2lb eps longboard with double 6 oz warp glass deck, single six bottom. the board turned out great, but my friend wished he had used more glass. it was so light, he said that he would have gone with tripple six deck double six bottom. after about a month the deck had a lot of pressure marks.

pat

Hey boardbumps

I have contacted RMAX and I’m just waiting for a quote.

What sort of price do they charge you???

How do you get them home??

I’m about 1 1/2 hrs from Sydney.

Cheers

hey superfatpat ,

thanks

both my 1st board (10’2 long) and my 2nd ( 6’2 shortie) are

2lb eps glassed with double 6 deck and single botom

and epoxy off course…

until now, almost no pressure marks and dings.

for the SUP I was thinking of a 3rd layer on the deck since it’s going to bee stepped on all the time but not sure if it

is really necesary, specially when the guy who orderd the sup wants me

to keep it light.

,

progress-

routed the slot for the 10" finbox, 6" from the tail.

any idea about side biters location?

thanks again,

lee