Wondering if there is anyone here that could give me some advice on selecting a few new boards not so much shaper etc but more dims, planshape, volume distribution etc I would normally go directly to a shaper and have faith in him though i have suffered a debilitating injury to my left ankle (front foot)i have sent messages to various shapers and had face to face discussions with others and have received unsure and mixed messages (i do realise it may have to be trial and error though would like to avoid that if poss). So the more opinions the better. Firstly i am 33 have been surfing since i was 8 on the east coast of oz and have recently relocated to the basque coast in france. I am 5’11’’ and weigh 85kg (190lb). The injury kept me out of the water for a while and i have lost some mobilty I can not dorsiflex much over 90 degrees though i have been training hard am otherwise very fit and my ankle feels strong despite its limited range. obviously this has effected performance and forced me to change my style a lot and my style is def backfoot these days. I would like a design that would aid these limitations. I would like something that would let me sit back a bit (on take of as well if possible used to really lean into the drop that is harder these days) push hard of the back foot, and in terms of weight distribution sit back there a bit though i am open to suggestions. If you made it this far thankyou. Unfortunately i never paid that much attention to design in my many of surfing years was spoilt some seriosly talented shapers who seemed to get it just right from my simple descritptions of what i needed. I have read that quads are great for back foot performance and produce more speed with less work which also appeals to me reaching top gear in my present condition is not as easy. i try though there was something i was doing before that my body memory goes to do and my body wont let me. pretty depressing though i am determined to get back as best i can. technique was something i never really thought about either just sort of did it like riding a bike. thanks in advance to anyone who can help. any suggestions welcome.
Dan - there's a lot of room for opinion there, but I have found egg shapes to be very easy riding and easy to catch waves. Different circumstances, but I'm fighting a similar battle. We're about the same weight, I ride shapes from 6-10 to 7-6. Longboards are fun too, 9' x 23" works for me. Wish you fun waves and good times!
Where exactly are you on the Basque coast? What kind of board were you riding until you got injured? As Bill Thrailkill was kind enough to suggest, I might be able to help you, just get in touch or drop by my workshop. Plenty of other good shapers around here as well, but I’m sure you know that.
[img_assist|nid=1060060|title=fat egg|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=437]I had a nearly identical injury from your description. I used a longboard my first paddle out after almost four months of healing. I was sweating bullets before my first wave. Turned on one, took a couple strokes, pressed down then stood up. That smile after a couple small sections said it all.
We are nearly the same height and weight. My right foot, I’m regular. Kicking softly while sitting on the board will improve movement and it doesn’t hurt as much as walking. Nurse it softly and when you push it hard it might just give out sometimes further down the road. Mine has on a couple big bottom turns. Enjoy the summer because the cold water temps will sap much of your foots energy and it will stiffen up.
Board suggestions? Just get something on the fat side in whatever length you feel comfortable until the healing tapers off. If I were you I’d go with that sweet looking 6’2 kid’s egg over at atuacores and beef it up to 3" thick. Short and fat. Second thought, short fat rocket style quad. Let your back foot do all the driving.
you’re right that first wave I was sweating on it as well, god it was good to be back though, didn’t do that many turns but that feeling of being on a wave, nothing quite like it. i was giggling like a schoolgirl, i’ve never paddled back out so fast in my life. Good to hear from people who know what i’m going through. Surfing is my life or a very big part of it anyway. Thanks for your suggestions there. Pretty sound advice. Must admit i’ve been getting ahead of myself. Hope things are going well with your ankle.
I think that all of the advice above is sound. I had a serious back injury 2 years ago and adjusted my boards to get me back in the water. I got a 7ft x 21 x 2 3/4 from a local shaper, plenty of foam, widepoint forward and a 2 + 1 set up. http://www.diversesurf.com.au/boards/boards/funboards.php
I still have this board and pull it out once a month when I really want to carve or cruise, or if I haven't surfed for a while. Riding this board was good for my surfing and only happened due to injury. (It would go great at Guethary)
Now I have a 5'6 x 22 x 2 1/2 quad which is super fun. As I mentioned, if I hadn't had ridden the big 7''er with such success I wouldn't be on this track with my current boards.