I’ll be shaping my 1st board and Using Aku Shaper for rough guidelines but how do I know how much volume to keep?
I’m 6’2" and just under 170.
I’m also 36 and like a board that paddles easy, The board I’ll be shaping is a mini simmons type so I dont expect paddle ability to be a problem but I also don’t want to leave too much volume and have a boat
Thank You
dave
I stole this off of Mike Daniel’s posts. It was is just for a rough guide, but it was a couple of years ago. The lower numbers are for more advanced ability.
Cubic feet on top, liters on the bottom.
Here is the post
http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/volume-algorithm-avoiding-slater-copycat-phenomena
https://swaylocks7stage.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/surfboard_volume_by_weight.xls
I recreated some of my favorite boards I own in BoardCad to give me an idea on volume. I know how each of those boards float me so I can get a general idea on the volume I’d like in a certain type of shape. Those mini’s have a lot of surface area so you don’t need as much foam as you think.
Nice work digging up that old thread. But I'm glad I looked at your spreadsheet, those #s don't quite jibe with my ''guidelines''. Here's a quote from the 2009 thread:
''It's a great tool to have when working with customers to fine-tune things. You also find out that there's a great deal of personal preference in bouyancy needs, i.e., some guys like to float, some like to swim....
On one of those 2007 threads I laid out my general guidelines for different types of boards. For shortboards, it's about .50 cubic feet per 100 lbs of rider weight, fishes and hybrids about .75 cubic feet/100 lbs, eggs and mid-lengths 1.00/100 lbs, hp long 1.25/100 lbs, and classic long 1.5+/100 lbs.
edit to add that 1 cubic foot = 28.32 liters, I like using cubic feet more because it's easier to see percentage changes. (most shortboard #s run between .70 and .90)''
Mike thanks a ton.
now is this volume just for finished blank shape or does this include glassing?
what can i assume standard 6oz glass will add in thickness as compared to finished blank?
I’m used to holding a finished board in my hands to know if i like it. but now I’m creating it!
I have a feeling shaping is addicting. I guess I have to just use these guidelines then put the thing in the water and see what I like and don’t like. Just trying to get as close as I can 1st try! It’s exciting and daunting starting with just a blank and a loose idea of a finished product!
thanks man. any pics of something similar you’ve created you’d like to post?
Thanks Johnny I’ll look into boardcad. I haven’t downloaded aku yet but hope that will give me an idea before i create my templates.
I guess I’ll just have to feel it out as I go! and yes I’m more weary on leaving too much volume than too little. I’ve never surfed a mini but assume they paddle and plane easily with all the with and flatness. How do you compensate for the extra thickness from finished blank to fully glassed board with say a standard 6oz cloth?
dave
Almost let this slide, sorry i didn't see you'd reponded. Welcome to sways, btw.
I wouldn't worry about the thickness of a ''normal'' glass job adding much to your volume measurement from a CAD program, there's probably more variation induced by the hand-finishing after the cut (or variation in the cut itself). If you want to account for it, find your total surface area and multiply times skin thickness. Bust out the dial calipers to measure skin thickness of some lam samples.
I don't have any pics of boards like that, don't shape 'em. See other threads to find out why they should all come from Joe B.
To put it in perspective you need 30 something layers of glass to make a fin so if you only have 2 on top and two on bottom its pretty negligable. The funny thing is most big name boards are always off on there dims. I had a friend tell me he buys CNC board bc there perfect. Sometimes they are His was 1/8th inch thinner and 3/16 narrower. This is usually bc of what Mike says the guy finishing the blank. BTW alot of CNC boards are great this was just and example…
I bet most of the surfers wouldn’t have a clue their board dimensions are out by that much anyway.
If they are that sensitive then god help em if they have to wear a condom.
Lol!
BTW - very fun about Joe B, Mike.
touche mr cuttlefish 
what’s a condom btw?
this is my first time shaping so it’s a strange concept having a block of foam in front of me with a very loose picture in my head of what it will look like when I’m done and being able to hold a finished board under my arm in a shop and have a pretty good idea of if it will work for me. I’m just trying to get a general idea to create my templates before I start hacking away. i have no idea what the volume is of boards I buy and i realize they’re usually off. I guess I’m just going to wing it really but want some sort of plan going in so I start with the right foam and template.
I’m 6’2 and only about 165 btw. I was thinking start with a 5’8" but from what I’m finding on these forums the mini’s typically have a lot of volume. I don’t want it to have too much volume (which i’ll be able to control now as the shaper) or feel too short.
as far as volume goes. what are your thoughts on going shorter like 5’4" or 5’6" and leaving a little more foam vs staying at 5’8" and thinning things out more? or is it really negligible at 2 inch increments on a shape like this?
Hey Dave seems like you are struggling with the size thing. I suggest you read through the “Bars of Soap” thread if you have an extra week or so lol. There is tons of good info in there and it will answer most of your questions. I made a 5’-9" 22.75" wide x 3" thick, big chunky rails and it’s waaay to much foam for me at 210 lbs, the thing is basically my longboard now.
Don’t know how good you surf but being 6’-2" you might find a 5’-4" a bit short if you have a wide stance.
Hey Johnny thanks man. yeah 3" sounds thick. I’m leaning towards a 5’7 x 22 x 2.5 and thinking I’ll dome it out for thin rails closer to a standard thruster than a retro fish type rail. I’m assuming since they’re so flat that they’ll paddle easy and not require too much foam. I don’t want a shortboard i can’t duck dive! i’m guessing it should float a bit higher than my modern fish but definitely not like a log!.
I think I just broke the 1st hundred pages on the “bars of soap” blog haha. it’s addicting.
Foam is your friend…if used wisely…
There is a lot more to how a board paddles and catches waves than just the thickness. An otherwise nice board with too much rocker will push water and paddle like a bitch. If this is your first board and you are not a real experienced water man, you should stick to forgiving shapes like eggs with nice rails and a thin tail, or something alongs those lines. At least then you’ll have fun surfing what you make, and isn’t that what it’s all about?
Look at a lot of shapes and get a good feel for what you want…
Hope it helps.
Emprirical Data: I’m 170 and these work out for me. I’d model your volume after the sweet potato 5’8" or 5’6" for you. I’ve surfed it for 4 months straight at blacks and love it.
Empirical Eqn: a good rule of thumb below.
35% your weight for glassy barrel board =170lbs-> 77Kilos then 77Kilos*0.35Liter/kilos = 27 liters (potato chip “performance” board)
I’m quoted on this by Rusty: http://rusty.com/us/blog/2009/06/25/talking-design-the-secret-behind-displacement-and-big-guy-shortboards/
45% a fun board in steep fun conditions with some play and slop = 35 Liters (5’10" neckbeard)
55% a board for junky conditions or crowds = 42 Liters (5’8’’ Swee Potato)
I suggest you keep your keep the volume in the rails the same as a board you like then step up the volume.
Good luck amigo
Tom G