thanks for all the great input - love to hear about a 60 year old guy on a short board. i havent seen too many guys like
that over the years … the guys i have seen were great surfers though. have a couple friends who are riding longboards
and they are in the mid-40s. both complain about going stale on those shapes and are leaning towards some shorter shapes.
both guys rode my 5’10 recently and both really enjoyed it.
i’ve been experimenting with numerous different shapes over the past couple years, though i’ve ridden shortboards since
the mid-80s. have added/subtracted twins, quads, longboards and fishy thrusters from my quiver. tried a couple surftechs
too and did not like them at all. particularly bad in bigger waves.
what i’ve learned: it’s hard to beat a traditional thruster for waves that have lots of power – e.g. punchy bowling barreling waves …
i find that thrusters provide more control over speed & direction than other shapes though, strictly speaking, it may not be the
fastest down the line shape for the open face. twins are great in weak/mushy stuff but can be really fun in bigger glassy barrels too. found
the twin to not generate as much speed in the barrel though – this could be my lack of experience cause i’ve only ridden
my twin once in over head barrels. found it fast getting into the tube but not as good for getting out … feel like the thruster lets
you drive through the barrel with more force and control than the twin — twin just felt like i was tracking along and i couldnt
really grab the power while in there. felt like i missed making it out of a couple tubes cause i didnt have the thruster’s drive to count on.
not sure if this makes sense to others but it’s my vague impression.
also found that some times a long board is the best choice. and it is incredible the way your equipment affects the the way and
where you turn on the wave.
i’m 5’11, 165. favorite board ever: 6’0 T.Patterson thumb tail thruster with glass on fins. 18.25 2.25. chippy and a drag to paddle but once you got some power under it, it was the greatest, most responsive thing i’ve ridden. before that board, i used to stick with the
6’2 length, minimum, with extra width, thickness. picked up the patterson from a pro (bout my weight and height) for a hundred bucks and absolutely loved it. so, i had the opposite experience of what some swaylocks folks are saying ::: i used to exclusively NOT RIDE what the pros rode cause i figured “well, they’re pros” then picked up this board – against my will basically because it was cheap and i needed a board — and found it was magic.
2nd favorite board - an old blue hawaii 6’1 channeled thruster circa 92 – not sure what it was about that board but i felt like john from cincinnati on that thing. my wish was its command.