hey everyone, so i bought this sander for 70 bucks from an auto parts store thats used for fiber glass work and it states on the box that it is a sander/polisher. the sander has 6 speeds to a max of 3000 rpm. on the lowest speed it the sand pad barely turns and on the highest setting it turns pretty fast. I also bought a medium pad from foam ez to put on it. My question is, is this a good sander for sanding on the hoat coat and the board in general? I tried it out on a little practice board i made and it seemed to work but the sander leaves these very fine circular marks on the surface. when i finished, the entire board was white in color and all but a few shiny spots remained on the flats of the board, is this normal or are you not suppose to be able to see any of the circular marks even though they seem evenly distributed across the bird?. . . I appreciate all the help.
yah sounds like a good sander, pretty much any good variable speed sander is right around that rpm area. as you continue to increase paper grit the swirl marks will go away or just make sure your keeping your pad flat. the shiny spots are most likely from a little bump in your hotcoat, just take another pass and it will sand out.
thanks a2tall, that info helps a lot
I don’t know how we survived the first 40 years without variable speed sanders, it was hit it, let the RPM’s fall and quickly get in there before it came to a stop and do it all again and again.
I have a Snapon variable sander, I call in the power sanding block, let it turn at about 15 RPM
…yeah, when I bought my Makita in mid 80s, I thought that I was in the other side, due to 2 speeds they have…
But triggering is a technique that every sander or boarbuilder should understand and do right.
a sander is only as good as the person using it
Yes, but a good sander makes it easier for the person to do a better job.
…and a good hotcoat
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a sander is only as good as the person using it
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Yes, but a good sander makes it easier for the person to do a better job.
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...and a good hotcoat
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...and a balanced sanding pad.
okay ive got another question.....so i know your not suppose to use the sander on the rails if your just starting out but what about the buffer? I mean can you hand buff the rails or will it be okay to use the buffer for the gloss coat for someone starting out.
who said not to go on the rails? If you’re just starting out you are gonna screw alot of stuff up anyway. Go slow, and use a soft pad on them. You can’t learn unless you try
oh i know i will, but id rather not mess up the rails.
Hozit makox,If you want to rub out the rails use a ferro soft pad after hand sanding with 400 wet and dry and use 600 wet and dry and then rub it out. Aloha,Kokua
I don’t use any grit over #220 on my machine for rails
HI REVERB
I NEVER HEARD OF TRIGGERING, WHAT IS IT?
I AM ON THE OTHER SIDE TOO, EUROPE
THANKS
WOUTER
i agree with ken.
a good: blank,shape,lam,hotcoat ..........sander.........pad ,etc. will give you a better finished product.
but remember this(an old hunting saying) : it's not the gun............it's the shooter.
herb
it's controlling the rpm's of the sander by gunning the trigger of the sander.
in other words..........turning it off and on ,rather than having it run continuously.
with non-variable sanders it's the only way to fly.
riostats work............ but i have hear from guys with experience that the sanders that are not variable on rios get an early grave.
herb