box routing ?

If at all possible, can someone tell me the correct router bit to use for routing fin boxes. And maybe how to make a jig and the correct depth to route the box. Any info would be more than appreciated. Thanks

If at all possible, can someone tell me the correct router bit to use for > routing fin boxes. And maybe how to make a jig and the correct depth to > route the box. Any info would be more than appreciated. Thanks ABOUT A 6MM BIT WILL DO.PUT AS MUCH OF THE BOX IN AS POSSIBLE EVEN IF YOU HAVE TO SAND SOME OF THE BASE OFF IN STEPS. THE JIG IS UOT OF A PIECE OF MASONITE OR PLY. JUST WORK OUT HOW MUCH YOU HAVE TO ALLOW FOR YOUR ROUTER AND PLACE GUIDE TOP AND BOTTOM AND ON THE SIDE. ANY CARPENTER COULD HELP YOU. TAPE THE JIG SECURELY ONTO THE BOARD AND IT’S TAHT SIMPLE. MAC

Don’t worry about making a template. It’s not a waste of time mind you, but it is definitetly not even close to a necessity. Just trace the outline of the finbox onto the blank and set the router bit to whatever your fin box is, though remember to err on the side of too shallow rather than too deep, cause you can always sand down the top of the fin box affter it is in place. As far as router bits, just use one that you feel comfortable with. CAUTION…foam cuts fast so go slowly and use a very steady hand.

If at all possible, can someone tell me the correct router bit to use for > routing fin boxes. And maybe how to make a jig and the correct depth to > route the box. Any info would be more than appreciated. Thanks Chris, What size shank does your router accept (1/2" or 1/4")? What kind of router is it (plunge, d-handle, regular)? Are you installing the fin boxes as you glass (i.e. o’fishl longboard boxes) or after glassing/before sanding?

It is a craftsman with 1/4 shaft. I’m installing it after glassing. The bit I used burned up and had little nicks in it. It was a brand new bit. Now it’s shot. I could see it getting red hot.

It is a craftsman with 1/4 shaft. I’m installing it after glassing. The > bit I used burned up and had little nicks in it. It was a brand new bit. > Now it’s shot. I could see it getting red hot. Get a carbide bit, it’ll last you a lot longer.

Thanks. I’ll pick one up tomorrow. What would cause a new bit to burn up like that? Is there a particular router best suited for routing boxes. What about a dremel tool.

best size bit???

It is a craftsman with 1/4 shaft. I’m installing it after glassing. The > bit I used burned up and had little nicks in it. It was a brand new bit. > Now it’s shot. I could see it getting red hot. you’ll want a two flute strait bit, carbide like kokua said, with a 1/4" collet your choices are limted but you will want a bit with at least 1" depth, more is definately preferable. 1/2" diameter is preferable but again with the 1/4" collet you might have a hard time finding one, 3/8" will work also. I don’t know where you are but I would check out a real hardware store first, like Coast to Coast (Truserve), before going to a big box. The selections are often better and if you ask they can order you a bit if they don’t have it in stock or don’t stock what you are looking for. Once you have a bit I would make a template, no point in screwing up your board after putting in so many hours on it and being so close to completion. A quick way to make a template is to measure the distance from the edge of the bit to the edge of the base and then on a base board, (i.e. 1/4" plywood) mark a center line and outline the box on that, then measure from the outline the distance from the bit edge to the base edge and glue down guide strips for the router to go against. If you use CA glue with an accelerator you will be ready to go right away. Route the hole in the plywood and drop the fin box in it to see if it fits correctly. If it does attach it to the board and route away. You can attach it to the board a number of different ways, I’ve used hot glue, clay, and masking tape. You may also want to put some of that nonskid rubber mat stuff on the bottom (it is like a rubber mesh, carpenters use it to hold projects in place to sand, homemakers use it for drawer liners, boaters use it to keep stuff from sliding around, board builders use it to keep their jigs in place). As you cut the box cut the stringer down in shallow passes and then on your last pass route out the rest of the box. You’ll get cleaner edges this way and you won’t overload your router trying to take big chunks of stringer out. Good luck, Matthew Weaver

you’ll want a two flute strait bit, carbide like kokua said, with a > 1/4" collet your choices are limted but you will want a bit with at > least 1" depth, more is definately preferable. 1/2" diameter is > preferable but again with the 1/4" collet you might have a hard time > finding one, 3/8" will work also.>>> I don’t know where you are but I would check out a real hardware store > first, like Coast to Coast (Truserve), before going to a big box. The > selections are often better and if you ask they can order you a bit if > they don’t have it in stock or don’t stock what you are looking for.>>> Once you have a bit I would make a template, no point in screwing up your > board after putting in so many hours on it and being so close to > completion.>>> A quick way to make a template is to measure the distance from the edge of > the bit to the edge of the base and then on a base board, (i.e. 1/4" > plywood) mark a center line and outline the box on that, then measure from > the outline the distance from the bit edge to the base edge and glue down > guide strips for the router to go against. If you use CA glue with an > accelerator you will be ready to go right away. Route the hole in the > plywood and drop the fin box in it to see if it fits correctly. If it does > attach it to the board and route away.>>> You can attach it to the board a number of different ways, I’ve used hot > glue, clay, and masking tape. You may also want to put some of that > nonskid rubber mat stuff on the bottom (it is like a rubber mesh, > carpenters use it to hold projects in place to sand, homemakers use it for > drawer liners, boaters use it to keep stuff from sliding around, board > builders use it to keep their jigs in place).>>> As you cut the box cut the stringer down in shallow passes and then on > your last pass route out the rest of the box. You’ll get cleaner edges > this way and you won’t overload your router trying to take big chunks of > stringer out.>>> Good luck,>>> Matthew Weaver I find a 3/8 bit will give you those nice rounded corners. About 3 years ago I stopped wrapping the fin box with fiberglass. I put a piece in the bottom of the hole but not around the box. I use milled fiberglass in my mixture,since I made this change I don’t see those annoying little cracks that like to form usually at the front of box cutout.

what are you supposed to do with the tabs on top of a fins unlimited fin box? do they get sanded off, or does the resin cover them? and one last ??..is it possible to make milled fibers from scraps of cloth??

what are you supposed to do with the tabs on top of a fins unlimited fin > box? do they get sanded off, or does the resin cover them? and one last > ??..is it possible to make milled fibers from scraps of > cloth?? They get sanded off… theoretically it is possible to make milled fibers from scrap glass however you’re better off just buying some, you only need a little bit and it’s not expensive.

well that’s my dilema…i want to install a fin box in the next day or 2. i don’t have time to order the actual fibers. are the fibers diff. material than e-cloth scraps? anyone…thanks for the help…

well that’s my dilema…i want to install a fin box in the next day or 2. > i don’t have time to order the actual fibers. are the fibers diff. > material than e-cloth scraps? anyone…thanks for the > help… milled fibers are fine powdered glass fiber used as reinforcement to increase mechanical strengths of filled resin. Add to fillets for increased strength. Use on surfboards, sailboards and kiteboards as reinforcement in combination with glass microspheres around fin boxes and inserts (from fiberglasssupply.com). It is e-glass, and the length of the fiber is 1/32". You can install the box w/o milled fibers, however the resin it is set in will be more prone to cracking. Good luck.

You can make your own milled glassfibres by rolling up a scrap of 6oz. and snipping off a small amount at a time with sharp scissors.Mix it with your resin after you have added the hardener and pour in.

what are you supposed to do with the tabs on top of a fins unlimited fin > box? do they get sanded off, or does the resin cover them? and one last > ??..is it possible to make milled fibers from scraps of > cloth?? The tabs will get sanded off after installation. The fin boxes I get from them don’t have the tabs anymore. They are pre-sanding the boxes and that removes the tabs. Changes the installation procedure a little.