Build thread- Board #7

General Discussion
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I got out after work today. It was like waist high, some chest high sets (on me, I’m short) with smaller waves between. Plenty of waves and the size was there, but the quality sort of wasn’t. Lots of closeouts, but also some racetracks for speed. I think the swell direction wasn’t optimal for this spot, plus a the winds probably cycled through 180 degrees of direction changes for the two hours or so I was there. Still a few fun waves to be had. Here’s some observations:

1: Speeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeed. Easily the fastest board I’ve done. I don’t know if it’s related to it being a quad or the bottom contours but it’s so fast. I made fast running lefts I wouldn’t have gotten around on the other board. Before I got out I got a few lefts where I was consistently surprised not only that I made the sections, but that I kept that speed and kept going faster still. It flows so quickly, like a skateboard in a tight bowl corner.

I don’t think this pic made the previous posts but I’d imagine this has something to do with it. I have to surf it more, but it seems better under heavy front foot loading than the old version. The whole thing just feels a bit more efficient when pumping and making speed.

2: It’s easier to release on my forehand, which was one of my goals. It also flows between turns more quickly and fluidly, which is how the libtech puddle jumper felt, so I think this is an attribute of quads of this style that I like. I had a small hit on a small lip and to my surprise I was able to quickly set it off the bottom and come up to hit the whitewash, where the board released and I felt like I was on a skateboard again. I think the lighter weight makes it feel a bit more lively too. If any of you skate, you know how you board can have all the traction you want, but even going slow over a roller or hump you can easily unweight the tail and drift it out then bring it back under you. This board reacts quicker than the old one.

3: Buoyancy seems about the same. It duckdives slightly better since I made the nose a bit thinner.

4: It paddles strangely well? I’m not sure if this is the case and further evaluation is needed. I don’t know if there were just no currents to fight or what, but it seems to paddle more efficiently than the other one. It just seems to slide though the water easier, but then again that could be due to currents or lack thereof. I’ll find out after a few more rides.

5: The more curvy bottom rocker definitely helped. This came out of a 5’3" blank. The other was a 5’4" out of a 5’9". This is a 5’3" out of a blank that was like 5’3.25" on a straight tape pull or so, aka I used the entire blank. There’s not exactly more rocker, it’s just not as flat.

6: I can see how this won’t be as good in bigger waves. I think this has better smaller wave performance for sure, but I think it’ll be quite loose in more powerful, faster moving waves. Maybe not as a 3 fin though, I’ll have to try. I’ve had the old version out in overhead barrels, and honestly the best barrel I’ve gotten was on that board. I’ll keep that board in the rotation as a toy for winter for sure, but even after this short test I can conclude this new one will be my new everyday ride.

7: It seems easier to stay attached to this board when hitting the lip and leaning over a lot, on my forehand at least. I think this is related to the board but also the fin setup. I think the quad allows it to pivot as quickly as I want it to so it doesn’t get away from me so much, whereas the 3 fin arrangement had a longer turn radius without being forced. Could be the board is lighter or something else. Who knows…

Overall I think it’s a keeper. I didn’t really get to go backhand so I’m waiting on that. It’s funny because my usually spot usually produces rights and I’m goofy, but I got like two and they sucked. I’m eager to see how it hits the lip on my backhand. I did manage this weird, nose up floater sort of move. If it’s anything like the forehand feeling than I’ll be happy. Maybe this weekend.

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That kind of says it all right there, doesn’t it? CONGRATS!

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So I got out on it today again. It was bigger and more powerful this time, shoulder high or more and waves moving much faster. More like real shortboard conditions but I wanted to try it. I also didn’t bring my shortboard because I thought it was going to be way smaller.

It’s not bad in shoulder-head high waves. I’d have liked to try it as a 3 fin but I didn’t have the center fin with me. It is very, very fast, to the point where I drop in and gain so much speed I outrun everything. Super fun on fast running waves, but waves where I’d want to surf top to bottom require special attention. No issues with late steep drops or anything, which was nice to see. There was no skipping or bouncing at high speeds. The other one had that issue sometimes. The wind did catch it a few times, since it’s still rather wide up front. I got stuck doing a floater more or less because an offshore wind gust hit.

Really though, it’s not a shortboard and I was in shortboard waves. I didn’t need the width or volume. It’s still fun, but in waves like that a more hpsb type craft is better for me. But if I don’t have one on hand then this will do.

The other thing I learned is rail finned quads need a different approach to backhand hits in the lip. When you come off the bottom it needs more guidance and finesse as you put it vertical and head for the lip. I like the way it blasts through the lip and pivots at the top though. It’s a bit easier since there’s no center fin to try and prevent you from quick, large directional changes. But when I draw hard off the bottom there’s no center fin preventing me from spinning out and burying the heel side rail, then stalling and going over the top of the wave without ever snapping it in the lip. I pressured the rail way too much on my heels and went over the top quite a few times. This was my first time on a quad in good surf. I’ll figure it out.