OK, have a trip planned to the Big Island in August. Will certainly build a couple of boards to take with me. Am hoping for south swell with some size and will have wheels to hunt for surf. Anybody (Ambrose? Kokua? Foamdust?) got any board recommendations for that island in late summer? I’m hoping that summer is more like Oahu (have gotten lots of good south swells every trip) than Maui (2 weeks skunked last time we went) – if it’s more like Maui I’ll think about a longboard too… thx, K PS will probably be on Kauai or Oahu for a week too, maybe we can get together for a surf.
Sorry Keith, have never surfed on Hawaii. Kauai always has waves in the summer, Poipu, Kalapaki, Pakala, etc. Oahu is always crowded. Gimme a buzz if u want to go for a session or two. Aloha, FD
Keith - You got it right on south swell action. I lived on south shore of Oahu one summer and Ala Moana, Kaisers, etc got quite good on occasion with consistent waves practically every day. I’d say take a board that would work for you as an everyday board at the Cliffs in winter and you’ll be fine.
big Island is a rock spot …Young Island geologically not much sand… in and out off the rocks… Maui then Oahu Then Kauai kauai oldest island lots of sand comparitivly although poipu summer favorite last resort,waiohai ,has it’s smiling inside rock…august is often uneventful fun surf a long an a short both fun designs august is about fun early in the morning and later in the afternoon when the heat of the day is not toxicly overwhelming …I have never surfed the big island some one else is a better reference…ambrose…tales of out of the way hike to spots have sparked my immagination … small is good for hiking
Going to Hawaii in early October. Kauaii, or Maui? If Kauaii: north side or south side.
Keith, Big Island surf mostly requires a small high performance board and a longboard !! Aloha, Have a great surf ! Clyde Rodgers
Thanks all, and Clyde, sounds like a good combo! Looking forward to surfing new spots…
Howzit Drew, In Oct. you can score waves on both sides of Kauai. South swells are still hitting and the north shore is just getting started. I tell friends that’s one of the best times to hit the Islands. Aloha, Kokua
South waves, hmmm… those would be in Kona. As mentioned above, rock entry/exits, with very few exceptions at Wailea (69), Hapuna Point, Ruddles, A-bay, Mahaiula, a few more. Anyone ever surf Kiholo? Kona has warm water and more wana per inch than just about anywhere else in the chain. You’re SOL if you step on one. I took up kneeriding instead for a while. Kona has shallow reefs that will slice you shitless if you’re not watchful, know the tide and break (69s rights, Banyan’s at low tide? rocks to da max). A thick wetsuit could help as my brother found out one day at Hano’s. A rashguard is not much protection. Most breaks can now be driven to; when I grew there it was a long walk over the lava to some. Kona waves can be friggen good and hollow, but long-term are inconsistent and a swell will come and go very suddenly. There may be no reliable surf forecast available; if you’re there and it’s good, surf don’t wait, it will be gone tomorrow. One long and one short board should see you through. If you’re not a longboarder, well, then something that’ll carry you on the all too common small days.
That new 3 stringer you posted looks like it would be just about perfect.
I have a few spots that you can catch. Everyone is right, the big island is definitly a rocky place and the surf spots don’t look as inviting to surf as ones on the other islands. There is sharp volcanic rocks lining the shoreline and sharp reefs underneath. Very few spots offer a paddle out without having to negotiate your way over jagged stones. While the waves on the Big Island are definitly better in the winter, I think for August your best bet will be in Puna District down near Pahoa on the East Side of the Island. Is one of the most consistent waves on the island, catches much of the summer time swell. Locals demand respect so tread lightly. Have fun out there.
Hey John, thanks very much, both the new boards are working fine, playing with fins to get them dialed in…