Bulbs! I don't like "cool white" too much yellow crap goin' on with those bulbs. Prefer "Daylight" or "Natural". Home Depot has a display in the bulb section. Check it out. You'll see the differances. You'll also have to decide if you want an eight foot fixture each side or an eight and a four, which will yield twelve foot total of side light. A shelve immediatly above the fixture is handy and deflects the light down onto the blank. Overhead light isn't as critical. An eight or even a four would be sufficeint.
I searched the archives for weeks about shaping bays, lighting, racks, compressors, etc. So much useful information buried within this website.
I found that if you check Surfline they have a series called Shapers Bay. It is more about the shapers themselves but it is shot entirely inside their personnal bays. I found by really studying the pictures they reveal so many little tricks and styles of setting up a shaping bay. Ended up taking a little from each shapers bay and combining it into my own.
I used a little from each shaper and so far they all have served an efficient useful purpose. A few had the primary dark shaping bay color offset by a lighter color above on the sides above the side lights. Another had a peg board for tools, tilted side rack for templates, custom brackets for tools, slinky airline hose, copper line for air supply (pvc is a huge no no!), etc.
In the end the smartest thing I did was to insulate the bay. Took the time to use fiberglass insulation and drywalled the ceiling and walls. It helps to keep the bay cooler so the air con doesn’t have to work as hard. It also provides a good measure of sound deadening.
The only thing I wish I’d done but didn’t have the space or money was for sure a pisser!
DMP do you have some pictures?
Thanks Guys! I just funished framing it yesterday. 10x16 with a cut-and-stack roof with 12" ceiling. It's empty now but it looks MASSIVE inside. I'm sure I will have no problem filling the space.
Ha! People are always talking copper line around this site and yet when you walk into almost any production glass shop you see PVC everywhere. If the PVC is rated for the pressure it's fine. They also have high pressure PVC. Makes you wonder why they sell plastic and rubber hoses for air compressors. Seems like every construction site in America would have to plumb in copper just to run a nail gun. I have had rubber or plastic hoses split once or twice in a lifetime; due only to the fact that they had been drug around dirt, mud and 2x4's for many years previous. Never been in a glass shop with copper and never heard any storys of PVC bursting and creating havoc. Copper seems to me to be more Swaylock re-invention. Oh and now that I've posted this; I'm sure the storys of maimed and limbless glassers and shapers will begin.
es! First bay.
The grass color was why I used a dark green instead of the shaper blue. That and the garbage cans were dark green.
Haven’t mounted the peg board yet. Stoked the dark green was almost a perfect match for the garbage cans. Thumb drive mp3 player dust proof! Copper line for air and a manual shut off for the 220 60 gallon oil-less compressor in the next room.
Peg is up, tools mounted, side rack with templates.
I can’t remember the dimensions but I think it’s 9’6" wide by 14’ long by 10’ high at the peak. Still miss the sounds of the birds and the trades blowing at my back.
I agree with M'Ding. Copper is not only overkill, but dangerous as well. If one wanted to go the extra step, black or galvinized threaded pipe is the call. Even "K" or "L" copper is very thin walled comparatively. Schedule 80 pvc will suffice. Most municipal water supplys don't exceed 100 lbs of pressure and sched. 40 holds up well to the pressure, 80 is a step up. Woodworking supply shops have kits for air lines in shops and they are made of braided plastic hose and fittings. Copper can burst easier than you think. Make sure there is a water trap in the low point of the air line run.
DMP-Looks good. Nice shapes as well. Yeah I miss the trades myself. Good advice Tblank. I'll be going thru all this shop set up again myself over the Spring.Two bays, sanding room and Lam. Just rented 1400 sq. in the Bro-Hampton of the Oregon Surf Scene.
I guess I blew it!
All my air lines are in 3/4" Copper.
Maybe next time I’ll get it right?
nice…west side of the river or east side?
With your money I'd put in gold air lines. With MY money it's gonna be PVC. Have you seen the price of copper lately? Lock your doors. If word gets out you got that much copper in your shop it could be gone one nite.
Pull in the parking lot at the best grocery store in town and look to your left. Behind the restaurant. They're finishing hanging sheetrock and insulating the ceiling tomorrow.
In fact all the copper in the current shop came from the shop I had before.
I do this for fun!
LOL…you mean the only grocery store…cool, area badly needs a quality shaper…what’s the name on your boards, btw?
Believe it or not, I've seen copper wear through where the joint wasn't deburred and then sweated with too much solder so it created turbulence within the 1/2" copper pipe. This was on a line less than 20 yrs old at 70 psi.
S'Ding, 3/4" way mo' betta than 1/2". More S.I.'s for the P. I'm sure your compressor is set a 125 lbs. or so like most.
I took my compressor and rebuilt it.
Originally it was 16 CFM.
Once I changed the compressor pump, Electric Motor and pulley I obtained 23 CFM.
For the last 2 years my compressor runs better.
Every joint in the cooper lines is prepped before sweated.
The PSI stays about 100 when in use.
Here is the source for the compressor pump:
former chief engineer for a hospital, maintained literally miles of air lines for medical gas delivery, and all of our HVAC air dampers and zone thermostats were controlled pneumatically, so had many compressors including some big mofo’s…
3/4" lines (or 1" to 3/4") deliver increased CFM then 1/2". Dual stage compressors will run forever if properly maintained. The bigger the tank the better. Prefer to replace manual tank drain valve with an auto drain unit. For a large multi-room shop set-up in a humid environment, install an in-line air dryer just past the compressor. Dry air increases the life of copper lines and everything it’s driving.
Proper solder joints (sanded, acid,right solder and heat) are good for decades - with that said, last hard piped air system I installed for a large dual head system used properly primed and glued schedule 80 PVC…simple, inexpensive, and will last at least as long as copper…not as much fun as sweating copper with my Mapp’s gas torch though… 
“install an in-line air dryer just past the compressor”
Thank you!
Will do!
Kind regards,
surfding
Anybody doing any type of spraying, paint or finish should be running an in line air dryer. Good advice.
ps. Have had nothing but good service from Smith pumps on my compressors. The Italian made ones don't hold up as well. Also as previously mentioned, it is even easier now to run lines with a hose and fitting kit. Less joints.
Lcc, I contracted with a hospital for about a year and a half.....BRUTAL!! My hat is off to you to pull that off. After awhile it really started to get to me. Remodeled a laundry room next to the morgue. I was shocked to see how many people were wheeled out of there daily. Folks that work in that enviroment especially the caregivers should have something coming to them in the end.
in a hospital everyone knows they are there for a greater good other then just their paycheck… moved on to manage facilities/construction for both healthcare and high tech over the years - overall, prefer the hospitals, much more collegial working environment…