How should I remove this?
Cut a new slot with a Dremel, using an abrasive parting disc. Then before attempting to back out the screw, spray some WD-40, or Liquid Wrench on the screw threads. Apply slow steady torque to the screw.
M y first thought is what Bill said. If that dosen’t work go to HD or Lowes and buy a screw extractor and follow the directions. Use WD 40 to help the removal.
Bill (as usual) is spot on. If you do not have a dremel you can go to the HD and buy a product called Grab it. It is a screw extactor. It will make short work of it if you follow the instructions.
be careful, those solvent hitting exposed foam might melt it... if you are sure, you're good, it wouldn't hurt to hit it with LW multiple times and let it sit for a while before using the above advice. any LW that's pooling is doing no good and you can get it out with gravity or a papertowel.
Yep, I'd do what Bill suggested, but I wouldn't hold out a lot of hope, being as that screw appears to be brass and brass isn't exactly hellaciously strong. So you may wind up wringing the whole head off.
This is not necessarily a bad thing, then you use a rubber mallet to gently thwack the fin a bit, get it to tilt up to where you can get the fin out. Maybe even get the tab out and work on it some, get what is by then a brass threaded shaft out of that using vise grips and a vise. .
If the whole tab-and-screw-remains thing won't come out you can then try to get the screw remains out with the tab still in the box. But you'll need to loosen it up a bit. Pour the fin box full of warm ( not hot) white vinegar and let it sit for a day, the vinegar is a weak acid that should attack the brass some and leave the stainless steel tab alone, so maybe that will get the screw shaft loose or at least to where some pliers can turn it and get it out.
And when you replace the screw, use a little vaseline or white lithium grease or beeswax on the threads. Now and again, maybe twice a season, take the screw out, to keep it from seizing up like this one did. Store the board, well, ideally with the fin out and with the screw taped to the fin and regrease before you put it back in and you won't have this poblem again.
hope that's of use
doc...
I've had to do this several times. Everything mentioned above is correct. However, after everything else failed, I've ended up grinding the screw head off. Do it with a dremel and be careful of that fin. It looks like it is molded plastic. You might want to cover any vulnerable areas of the fin with a couple layers of duct tape in case your hand slips while grinding. After the screw head is gone you can usually tap the fin out with a soft mallet. Pad the trailing edge of the fin with some rags to avoid damaging it.
You will be left with the remains of the screw and the plate. Usually they are fused completely together. It is difficult to remove the screw since it is below the lip of the fin box. You really can't get much to grab on to with pliers. On the modern fins unlimited boxes, you can remove the plate at the center hole. There is a bevel molded into the plastic that lets the plate slide out. If you are lucky, and your board is new enough, the bevel will be there. If it is an older board, there is no way to slide out the old plate and slide in a new plate. I use a chisel to cut a bevel in the old fin box, similar to the bevel in the modern boxes. The boxes are soft plastic, so it is easy work with a sharp woodworking chisel.
just cut the F'n head off the scew and be done with it!
Ken has the best idea. Remove the screw head, pull the fin out, then remove the remainder of the screw with a pair of needle nose pliers. Done!
First try the Liquid Wrench and pliers. Next cut a new slot and try a screwdriver with a good blade.
For quick and effective, simply and carefully grind off the screw head (Nick gets it right, Ken and surfifty also). then the fin will come out. The rest of the screw shank and "washer" can be easily removed afterward. Or if you have no grinder handy (really? no Dremel or anything?) you can use a hacksaw blade.
It's no big thing. Anyone familiar with wrenches and old cars will have dealt with this many times. "Easy-outs" are a real PIA and frequently break, then you're really scroood. I have one but almost never use it.
This screw has been getting progressively more and more buggered for quite some time. Well, you saw it coming, and here it is.
sometimes just grabbing the head of the screw with a pair of Vice-grips (set real tight) and then unscrewing it will get the job done… you never know unless you try.
Howzit Keith, Vise grips work great but here's a little trick I found one day. Instead of trying to turn the head counter clockwise try turning it clockwise first, just a tad to break it loose because you don't want to break the fiberglass screw hole. I know it might sound a little crazy but it will do the trick sometimes. Aloha,Kokua