I just came back from watching Bustin’ Down the Door in Honolulu tonight. You just got to see this movie especially if you recall the mid 70’s and the development of pro surfing on the North Shore of Oahu. I was there on the North Shore when all of this was happening so this one touched home for me.
I don’t want to give away the flick but tells the story of the Australians and South Africans who came to Hawaii to establish themselves in surfing. It describes the conflict between the Hawaiian style soul surfing and the radical attitude of Australians and South Africans. The controversy was shown from both sides and done very fairly.
Some of the highlights was a wave that Shaun Tompson and Mark Richards rode together. Shaun was in the tube with his single fin and Mark was ripping up the face with his twin fin. The Eddie Rothman (founder of the Hui Nalu aka Black shorts club) interview was very funny.
What made this showing of the movie special was that Mark Richards and Shaun Tompson were there in person to introduce the film prior to the start and field questions after the movie.
I went and saw it too. Shaun, MR and RR were there for the promo part of it. MR answered a few good surfboard related questions. Great old footage and the thing that stands out for me surfing wise was how far ahead of everyone MR was. Absolutely ripping big Sunset. He was just swooping and carving the crap out of it!! To this day, I can only dream of surfing like that. I did feel they left out a lot. There were other people ripping like Bertlemann who was also raising the bar. A young Buttons and Mark Liddel were already starting to charge along with Michael Ho. Michael Thompson was saying there was no Off the Wall before they got here… Not true. Others had surfed it and got barrels out there. BUT, it was Shaun, Rabbit, Ian and MR’s story… Got it. Shaun at OTW in particular well, just killed it. Amazing stuff…
On the other stuff, I was around 12 or 13 at that time and I remember clearly all kinds of things going down. The awesome surfing but I also remember the bad vibes and the uncles telling us what was happening… Why it was going down etc… After watching the movie, I felt like Ian Cairns just didn’t get it at all and still doesn’t. Looking from the outside in it seemed the crew had so much vanity and self absorbtion they couldn’t even take the time to learn our local ways. Come to our home and take, take, take without knowing it. They were here in Hawaii a few years before the problems and they were wave grabbing everywhere they went. In other words they had plenty time to learn about Hawaii and the Hawaiians. In all that time here they never for a second took the focus off themselves to spend time learning about Hawaii. The local people. About our culture, how we are, what we are about and most important. What would really piss us off.
Basically Hawaii gave them everything they dreamed of and they were coming back to take more. The vibe I got was, “Hey, we’re giving you radical surfing in exchange for doing whatever we want in your house.” (Other than MR) Hearing it from their side did not make me feel sorry for them. If anything it confirmed all the things I heard over the last 30 years about it. One thing is for sure. They all learned a very valuable lesson. Pay attention to your surroundings.
I recommend this movie to all surfers. A true story about Shaun, Rabbit, MR and Ian changing the way people surfed, viewed surfing and helped as a future travel booklet titled, “How Not to Announce Your Arrival to the North Shore”. Two thumbs up from me too.
I went and saw the movie over here in Maui on Thurs. evening.
I thought it was a great film and am looking forward to buying it on dvd when it comes out. There was a question and answer after the show and M.R. and S.T. took questions from the audience. The were both very humble and grateful for the turn out and the audience enthusiasm. Shaun spoke briefly about his son and that was a touching moment for me.
In my personal opinion both those guys know the true meaning of “aloha”.
There were other people ripping like Bertlemann who was also raising the bar. A young Buttons and Mark Liddel were already starting to charge along with Michael Ho. Michael Thompson was saying there was no Off the Wall before they got here… Not true
I was living on the North Shore at the time all of this was going down. Surfing with Buttons at V-Land (He was better than anyone from anywhere) serious! I lived in the white apartments on the beach (1977). Michael Ho, Dane Kealoha also just killed it. The best guy’s at Backdoor hands down. Dane K and Michael Ho got deeper than anyone else and surfed with authority. Buttons was doing skateboard like 360 in the barrel at Pipe going front or backdoor (On a single fin). Sam Hawk was surfing Off the Wall back in 1973. Michael Thompson and crew did popularize it however. So from that sense making more known his statement is kind of true? As more and more people started surfing Pipe and Backdoor (Mostly Locals) the South Africans would go down to Off the Wall where it was less crowded and easy to get shots.
Shaun, Michael, MR, Rabbit, IAN where standouts for sure. Their circle was much larger however you can’t include everyone involed. The movie would be 8 hours long. Don’t forget they are hardcore business men. They took surfing from sub culture to mainstream business. They have all made a good living from surfing. These guy’s set the stage and blew up surfing and took it to the next level. Now there are surfers all over the world making a living from surfing. I don’t believe that they have a disregard for Hawaiian Aloha. They are such driven successful people that their vision and focus doesn’t let them get bogged down with anything external including there surroundings. That’s why they are so successful. Focus? The Hawaiians ripped just as hard or most likely even harder at the time.
The Busting Down the Door Crew where able to take their North Shore experience and market it to a larger audience than the crew that actually live there full time. Travel has it’s rewards.
Now there are surfers all over the world making a living from surfing. I don’t believe that they have a disregard for Hawaiian Aloha. They are such driven successful people that their vision and focus doesn’t let them get bogged down with anything external including there surroundings. That why they are so successful. Focus? The Hawaiians ripped just as hard or most likely even harder at the time.
The Busting Down the Door Crew where able to take their North Shore experience and market it to a larger audience than the crew that actually live there full time. Travel has it’s rewards.
As far as Aloha we can all use more of it!
I have avoided commenting because I have already made more than a few comments on the matter, but surfding’s post was so well written and truthful…I just had to.
Most of us back on the east coast had to follow it in the magazines and surf movies. Some of my friends lived over there during that time and would send us back 8mm films and letters about some of these characters. I got to know and speak with some of them over the years.
During the early years…I think Dane, Buttons and Larry B were clearly the better surfers. Rabbit was no doubt among them and M.R. probably leading the pack with his twin fin while Shaun got the footage in the tubes. I think Rabbit in his book of the same name was brutally honest in one chapter where he said that all of these guys that claimed to be busting down the door with the exeption of M.R. almost got put into early retirement as soon as they got started when 17 year old Cheyne came on the scene in 77 and started pushing in 78 and by 81 and 82 there was an entirely new pack of surfers and type of surfing. Think about leaving that entire chapter out of something like this…I think it all flows together. I don’t think the Bustin down the doors years stand apart, but rather flowed naturally from some things that were happening since 69.
The fact is…this was the early planning of not only the pro tour, but the early planning on how some could manipulate surfing into big dollars. To a large degree the hierarchy and cast of characters was created and manufactured for public consumption. Not that most of the guys didn’t live up to their talent…exept M.Tomson…I always thought he was overrated. The magazines were also eager to jump on something like this because for the most part they were in the doldrums with stuff to write about. This was an exiting time in surfing. I worked in a surf shop two years prior to this and for the rest of high school after and it was like a bomb going off. Sales went from $500 to $700 a day in surf gear to $4000 a day. I remember one weekend I sold 15 surfboards just on a Saturday…where prior to that we were happy to sell two or three.
It was all pretty much tall tales and hype even back then…but I think as Surfding has pointed out…the true gritty surf tale of tales will probably never be told. Not only that it would likely challenge some of whats been told as the story since. I can’t wait to see the movie just to see how it’s done. The Book of Rabbit’s was ineresting. I think Rabbit tried to be as honest as he could while still having his ego.
The fact is…this was the early planning of not only the pro tour, but the early planning on how some could manipulate surfing into big dollars. To a large degree the hierarchy and cast of characters was created and manufactured for public consumption I don’t think the Bustin down the doors years stand apart, but rather flowed naturally from some things that were happening since 69.
Ja, I think this “era” was more about changing “surfing the culture” than “surfing the physical activity”. I agree, reluctantly, that this flowed naturally from earlier events. The guys from that era, the core from this film and many others mentioned and unnamed, really had a vision and I suppose the freedom of poverty to pursue their dreams…unlike what the annointed incoming superstars of today contend with.
Haven’t seen it yet, guess now I will…1976-1978 was a real surfworld shaking period. Seems like most all the surf stories that involve major money stay in the shadows…where they fester.
I worked for the worst and my family suffered greatly.
It seems no one will discuss that and give these same people great respect here.
Their way of being is what destroyed the hawaiian surf industry.
This is a greater event than these wave grabbers from OZ.
And has led to your comment at the bottom of all your posts.
When you toss money and ambition into the works…the stairs to the top are usually built on the backs, ideas, acomplishments of others along the way in the surf industry.
I saw BDTD at the Aussie premiere in Noosa this year. Very special night hosted by Shaun, MR, PT and Bugs. A great movie as you say giving a balanced look into an era that paved the way for all would be pro surfers.
I remember at the time how proud we all were that surfing was being recognized by a financial reward being given to those elite surfers.
If only we had known how it would effect all our surfing futures I don’t think we would have been so keen to see our lifestyle packaged for the masses.
That aside it was an emotional movie showcasing those beautiful Hawaiian waves that launched the whole thing.
I am looking forward to seeing the movie and see how that time period is put to story.
I agree with you regarding MR as being humble and I always thought him to be a pretty good guy.
As for Shaun, I am guessing that you have never surfed with him. I would be interested to know if your thoughts regarding him knowing the true meaning of “aloha” would still be true following one session with him.
I don’t believe that they have a disregard for Hawaiian Aloha. They are such driven successful people that their vision and focus doesn’t let them get bogged down with anything external including there surroundings.
This is exactly their disregard for Hawaiian Aloha. It’s called selfishness and self absorbtion. It was the typical “take” attitude so many people come here with. Disregard for the local people was clear in the movie and it was dealt with the way things were dealt with. All of them at some point admitted all they were concerned with were themselves and the glory to be had from being number 1. Hawaiians gave plenty and like I wrote, that crew came here a number of times before they had problems. They had plenty chances to learn. They totally blew their welcome. Oh well, water under the bridge now.
Hawaii is an incredible place with awesome people. Aloha is everywhere. The key is to not wear it out.
I am looking forward to seeing the movie and see how that time period is put to story.
I agree with you regarding MR as being humble and I always thought him to be a pretty good guy.
As for Shaun, I am guessing that you have never surfed with him. I would be interested to know if your thoughts regarding him knowing the true meaning of “aloha” would still be true following one session with him.
Exactly what I was thinking. I won’t even go into it on this subject. MR is a class act.
As for Shaun, I am guessing that you have never surfed with him. I would be interested to know if your thoughts regarding him knowing the true meaning of “aloha” would still be true following one session with him.
Exactly what I was thinking. I won’t even go into it on this subject. MR is a class act.
aloha Carve Nalu -
I understand what you are saying about these guys being dicks. They were dicks, and I think that came through in the movie as well. To the producers credit, it was a movie about them and their story, as off tone as they were at the time. I too was wrapped up in those days and feel that there are stories to tell of the Hawaiian surfing greats of the time. The difference is ego. Admittedly so, Rabbit and co. where ego driven, and conversely a lot of the soulful Hawaiians weren’t into putting it out there in the same way. The premise of the film was to tell the tale it told. For that, I loved it. I loved the 35mm and 16mm film format, the great water footage, and the honesty that Rabbit put out there. I think he showed how humbled he was, Ian too. I’ve got to say, that Shaun is a really nice guy these days, very humble and a gentleman in and out of the water. He still rips like no other too.
Good for Shaun. I recommend the film. I give it the thumbs up. Honestly, the footage of MR on that blue board at Sunset had me in awe. I was telling Parmenter after the movie that was some of the most incredible footage I have ever seen from Sunset. After all these years I never saw that footage before. There was another particular snap he did into the pit on the magenta/yellow board at Sunset… Wow. Very heavy. As far as the “story” goes, I understand why a lot was left out.
I just wrote what was happening at the time. Shaun and those guys all got regulated so like I wrote, water under the bridge. I have no ill feeling towards Shaun or Rabbit or even Ian. I don’t think Ian got it but that opinion is based on some things that are not in the movie. There are so many things that were not in the movie on how things got to where they did. Made another comment regarding Shaun as what he was in the water based on someone elses post… So Shaun is now a great guy… Good for him. Rabbit was sorry… IMO he should be. Maybe he doesn’t know it or maybe he does but he is probably a better person for his experiences here. Water under the bridge… 30 years of water… Trust me, Rabbit, Shaun, Ian, MR are stoked we are even talking about this right now… It means their movie was a success… This is the kind of thing they want from the movie.
Besides what has already been said about this film, I totally agree that they should have interviewed some other Hawaiians from that period. Michael Ho, Larry Bertelmann, Dane Kealoha, Liddell and BUTTONS, also played a part in that era too. Their take and how it affected them would have been a welcome addition to the film. Although I had seen much of the footage already, there was this one cutback Rabbit pulled that to me could hold its own even today. Anyone who experienced that period had to have been influenced by the Oz/South African movement in some manner. It went from the grace under pressure style to rip, tear, lacerate; draw strung OP shorts to scalloped legged Quiksilver boardshorts; Body Glove smoothie wetsuits to colorful Rip Curls, Aipa stingers to Lightning Bolt roundpins. In spite of the way some of them portrayed themselves back then…you had to give them credit, they totally went for it.