California dreamin'

On the plane back home, most everyone is asleep. To my right, Gabrielle is mufled up in my warm woolen vest (the one everybody told me not to forget since evenings could be so chilly and that I didn’t wear once because the weather was so very fine during the week) and she dreams about all the great times we had… I have spent some time writing down our diary so that I won’t forget anything when I get back home and now i am trying to think about how i should start my report. I let my mind wander for awhile and some images flash back at me, randomly; I could actually start the report with any one of them and go from one to another but I feel I need a guiding line, something that will go a bit deeper into what drew me here first. “Here” being Swaylock’s first, of course, but America also. Since I was a kid, I have always been fascinated by the USA. They seemed to epitomize all that I was looking for in life, especially California. Everything seemed easier there, anything could be achieved there, I had to be there someday.

Well, here I am, and it only took me about forty years to live the dream. Not so bad: some people never see their dreams come true; better late than never. Just one thing before going into the fun that we had during one week. But one that should not be omitted: I always felt that I owed you a lot and I always tried to somehow pay back for that. Explaining to a beginner how to do a cutlap or posting some photos of boards I have made as examples of what can be done are just very poor ways of thanking those young guys who would probably have become good surfers or shapers if they had not been chopped down by german machine-guns on Normandy beaches not so long ago. This may sound a bit far from our topic and certainly not a joyful way of starting this report but I just had to say it. Let’s not forget.

Also, I chose to start a new thread for this report instead of adding to the swayloholics one. I did not intend to dissociate myself from the crew, but our journey actually ended with the Plaskett Creek event and this report is about the whole trip.

 

 

Roissy Airport in Paris is a big mess… Upon seeing our travelling agency’s papers, the guys at the Delta desk directed us to desk 5. There, we had to queue in for about twenty minutes before being told that we should have been queueing in at desk 7 instead… Go to desk 7, queue in again and, just when we are about to get in, the lady says our flight’s embarkment actually is on desk 5… All that with Gabrielle pushing a trolley with the bags on it and I pulling the giant 9’6" board-bag behind… Don’t know how we made the plane, but we made it…

 

That’s Gabrielle, eating up some chocolate in relief:

 

 

The flight went OK. We flew over Great Britain, then up to Iceland and on to Greenland, spotting a few icebergs along the way:

 

 

 

Landed in Los Angeles, spent some time with the security guys (finger-prints, photos…), picked up the luggage and we were out the doors, waiting for Afoaf to meet us. Unfortunately, our flight was a Delta one but operated by Air-france… While we were waiting at the Air-France arrivals, Tyler was waiting for us at the Delta ones… We eventually met and he drove us to his place where we spent the first night.

Morning and a bicycle run along the beaches up to “Bill’s Pancake House” where we had our first taste of what an american breakfast is (it’s actually called “a lunch” in other parts of the world…) and met Jennyfer (Tyler’s wife) and both super-kids. Then back home and time to go and pick up the van I had rented from france… Meet Mr Pelican:

 

 

 

Driving in the States is not that hard once you master two important things: first, traffic lights are positioned ACROSS crossroads, not before. If you stop right under the traffic lights (like we are used to), you will actually be right in the middle of the crossroad… (Lots of fun, the first time…) Then, there is this sign on the freeway: “Slow traffic merge right”. I am a very disciplined guy and I don’t drive that fast, so I obey and merge right. That’s when another sign reads: “Right lane must exit”… A glance at my left mirror: a huge Kenworth truck comes roaring by me, there’s no way I can escape… Out of the freeway we go… Fun, fun, fun…

BTW, those Kenworths are just great. Chromes everywhere, and such a look… For a brief moment, I must confess that I thought about adding a Kenworths collection to my power planers collection: a few of them out there in the garden, wow!!!  Maybe talk Catherine into it first, though…

 

OK, we’re on the road to Corona to visit the Accurate factory and pick up one of their super-nice new planers (ordered from France some weeks before). We are greeted by Matt with which I have been in touch through E-mails. Super-nice guy and everything they are making there is just gorgeous: fishing reels and planers are machined from aluminum billets, no short cuts here. We leave after Matt has promised to think about a 220V version for Europe…

 

Back to the Pelican and down towards San Diego. Jeffrey’s parents live there and I want to thank them for everything they’ve been doing for me lately: go to some weird places around and pick up vintage surfboards or power planers from even weirder guys, then stock them in their garage, waiting for Jeffrey (or me, actually) to come and bring them back to France somehow. Also, I need to buy a cell phone that I can use in California (mine is only good for USA-France calls, not local calls). Again, Bud (Jeffrey’s father) will be a huge help as I couldn’t have done it without him: if you need a cell phone, you have to give a californian phone number and adress, so he gave his. So many thanks for that, Bud!

 

Christened my new cell phone by calling Bill Thrailkill, in case we could meet. Unfortunately, it didn’t turn out possible for some reason. Next time, Bill! Since we had to be in Huntington Beach the next day and visit the Surfing Heritage Museum in San Clemente before, we decided to hit the road north so we wouldn’t be too much in a hurry the next day. We reached san Clemente by 7.30 PM and crashed into the first motel we found:

 

 

At  2.30 AM, as I was peacefully dreaming, my phone rang: some customer, unaware of my trip and thinking I’m in France, wanted to talk business… I may not have been very polite. Since I’m awake, and being sure that people don’t sleep in France, I call Catherine. Everything is OK back there, so try and get some more sleep.

 

Next morning, we hit the SHF Museum. I’ve been in touch with “Cindy” and she just happens to be there. We are in for a full hour of awe and ecstasy, both drooling in front of unique boards from years, decades and centuries past. Gabrielle has been taught a few basics about surfing history so nothing’s really new for her here, but actually seeing the boards is just something else… I will have to pull her out otherwise she would have stayed there… Barry has arrived and he shoots some photos of us in front of some of the best boards:

 

 

 

Back on the road up to Huntington, we stop in San Juan Capistrano for a visit to PeteC. Talk business (a bit) and plenty of other things (a lot). Meeting you was great, Pete. Thanks for the coffee, too. See you soon.

 

Called Whitney since we were not far from newport but she told me she was going to Plaskett, too, so we decided we would rather meet there. Went to Costa Mesa instead to have a look at Mike Ward’s factory. Another fine greeting, and a full tour of the factory, guided by a guy whose passion for boards is intact. He runs a machine and cuts blanks for quite a number of people around but still hand-shapes some under his own label. We also come to meet Tanner (who I had read about here). It’s great to see young talents in this industry.

 

Huntington Beach, “Surf City”… Let’s do some real tourism and have a walk in Main Street and on the pier…

 

The famous Walk of Fame:

 

 

 

 

Gabrielle on the pier (trying to impersonate Pamela Anderson, maybe?)

 

 

The view from the pier, looking towards Main Street:

 

 

 

Here comes one of the highlights of our stay in California: a few years ago, I got in touch with Bob “The Greek” Bolen here on Swaylock’s. I had been willing to thank him for a long time since my second board ever when I was a kid had been a Greek Maui Model and it was just a magic board for the times. I sent Greek some old photos and we talked quite a lot and I ended up ordering a new/old Maui Model from him. I posted this board here before so I won’t again but you know how great it is. Well, to make a long story short, when Greek knew that I was coming to California he just invited us to stay at his place “for a night or two…” I must say that I was totally stunned since I was just another customer for him and being a shaper with maybe a couple of thousands boards under my belt at best was no challenge for a man like him (how many could he have shaped?) So i didn’t answer at first, thinking that this was just one of those “polite” offers that you don’t really mean to carry out. But, as our trip was getting nearer, Greek kept asking me for the exact dates of our stay at his place and so I ended up thanking him very much and, yes, we would be very pleased (and honored) to come and meet him… That’s why we were in HB that day.

Besides making the finest boards ever, Greek has a real estate business office on Main Street. Not quite the usual real estate office that you would think of, though:

 

 

 

To be continued… maybe.

nice report Balsa. read it all. looking forward to another installment...

dang that Whitney!!!!

I told her that when she meets up with you to call me so I may meet up for coffee, lunch, dinner or whatever..

she's grounded!!!! LOL

 

Can’t wait for part 2.

  

 

It was great meeting you.  Please continue the photo journal.

 

Is that a Pat Curren gun?  Looks nice.

It was great meeting you and your daughter, really enjoyed sharing some gourmet Afoaf cooking with you…  Yes it was real chicken.  Cant wait to see the rest of the photos.

Thanks to you all, guys. Llilibel, yes, this is a Pat Curren gun from the '50s and when you look at it from the side you’ll be surprised at how contemporary the rocker is. Durbs, more about the chicken later… Ken, sorry we could not meet, too. But you know how those blondes are, don’t you?

 

OK, let’s carry on.

 

 

We arrived at Greek’s by 3 PM and were greeted like kings by Bob and his wife Patty. The “small room” that Greek had told me he would put us in turned out to be TWO LARGE ones, each with its own bathroom. Incredible. My own room was filled with collector photos and items like the hawaiian stamp featuring Duke Kahanamoku:

 

 

Or a younger Bob Bolen, without beard:

 

 

Or the famous photo featuring Duke, Fred Hemmings, Paul Strauch, Butch Van Arstdalen… Signed and dedicated, of course:

 

 

We talked for a bit about all and everything, then I unveiled some gifts I had brought:

 

 

They seemed to be appreciated and I’m sure they couldn’t have been put in better hands:

 

 

Then the Chef went to work on his BBQ:

 

 

…and we enjoyed some of the best steaks we ever had, together with “pommes de terre en papillottes” that were equally delicious, all the while having a lot of fun talking about linguistics and the common points and differences between european languages such as French, Spanish, German, Italian… Whoever said that surfers only talk about waves, boards and the likes?

Next, Greek suggested that we had some relaxation in his jaccuzzi (how many Cs? How many Zs?) and I happily agreed.

So, here I was, after only two days in California, lazily lying in hot bubbling water under the palm trees that Greek planted himself, and right in front of me is Bob Bolen, one of surfing’s legends, casually talking about his life and his boards, telling me stories about Wally Froiseth, Woody Brown, Matt Kivlin… Life could be worse, indeed. One thing bothers me, though: when do I wake up?

The next day, Bob drove us down to the beachfront to have a look at the waves. Here we were, looking at some small but glassy surf and that’s when Greek started saying hello to some guys on the parking lot. He actually knows pretty much everybody in HB and as guys started coming out of the water or arriving to check the surf, he would introduce them to us and start to organize a group photo with Greek’s boards and T-shirts everywhere. Pretty soon we were about fifteen or so people on the parking lot and it started to look like a mob. Every time a new face would show, Greek would go: “Hi (insert name here), come on over for the photo!” while Patty would go: “Oh my God, no… Not another one…” Cars trying to enter the parking lot and not being able to do so because of the group in the middle, everybody laughing their butts out and having a great time. Gabrielle and I standing in the middle, shaking hands with John Davis, Mickey Rat and all the others… It was just incredible:

 

 

Bob shot a video of the happening and I put it on my Facebook wall but i still need to figure how to load it here…? Any help?

Then, we went back up Main Street to Bob’s office and shot more photos. I’m just adding them here randomly:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then it was time to go, after a last look at Greek’s garage where he keeps some great vintage boards such as a teardrop Maui Model that once belonged to Tiger Espere (and I swear I could kill to have it in my collection someday…) or this “Pickle” with one fin-box under each end, making it the perfect travel board because you can either use it as a mini-gun or as a small-wave board depending which side you put the fin in:

 

 

We finally left Bob and Patty but we didn’t leave empty-handed: in our bags were tons of T-shirts, sweatshirts, turbo tunnel fins, and above all, the “magic wand” that Greek gave me (secret weapon, used for trueing templates and blanks outlines):

 

 

It’s actually a very simple tool made of an aluminum ruler with 36 grit sand-paper glued on one side. it’s flexible and sands perfect curves.

Well, what else could I say? Greek made us feel like we were all-time friends whereas we were merely just some french people visiting California… I was really stunned by such hospitality (still am) but the rest of the trip taught me that it was just a common way of behaving with foreign people…

More later.

I was looking forward to that trip report ! :)))

Back to Hermosa Beach where Tyler is waiting for us to load our van and his pick-up with boards, camping gear, wood, and, above all, FOOD… Then hit the road again and this time we are heading towards Plaskett Creek. Not straight forward, though, as I have received an E-mail just before leaving France: “Are you making it up to Ventura, Guilhem? I have a planer for you.” This one signed by Gene Cooper… Everything is just plain natural: Greek invites me to his place and Gene Cooper wants me to have one of his planers. Sure enough, Gene, we are going to make it to Ventura. We get there in the afternoon and here is Gene, showing us his shop, latest shapes, future shapes, tools, glassing-room, everything… Lying on racks in the glassing-room, all wrapped up and ready to be shipped, is the now famous red 15’5" mega-gun. Up in the hallway where Gene had to shape it (since the shaping-room wasn’t long enough), the original template is hanging on the wall. There are screw holes in the wall where he installed temporarily his side neon-ramps to turn the hallway into a shaping-room. We talk and talk and Gene is the nicest guy you could think of. Here’s the man behind Cooperfish Surfboards that are renowned all over the world but he’s so simple and willing to share it’s just mind-blowing. I could quote a few shapers I know that are quite far from being as famous but could use some of Gene’s humility and kindness. Oh yes, I’ve got a new planer for my collection, too: a Wen, offered to me by Gene. Others would have put it on E-bay or something… Gene, not only are you a great shaper, you’re also a great guy. Keep up the good work and be my guest in France any time you like.

 

Gene’s Wen planer:

 

 

 

Next on our map is Pismo Beach where we are to meet Tyler and spend the night at his aunt’s and uncle’s in Grover Beach. But first I have to meet another guy in Pismo.

A few weeks ago, Philip posted an ad on Swaylock’s for a 5’9" Sunset surfboard shaped by Ned Mc Mahon. The photo of the board showed no real dings and the price was good so I decided to go for it, even though I didn’t really need it in my collection (I tend to specialize in boards of the “transition era” and this one was clearly much more recent). Being afraid that the owner wouldn’t understand my bad English, especially over the phone, I asked my friend Jeffrey to call and organize an appointment since I was going to Pismo. So here we are in front of Philip’s house in Pismo. I’ve never seen the guy, never talked with him. When he comes back home, he, too, is super-nice with us, talking about France where he has already been and how fine it was. Once again, we feel like we are old friends whereas we had never met five minutes before. He insists on keeping us for dinner but we have to decline since we must meet Tyler. We leave with the board but above all we have made a new friend. Philip, if you read this, try and make it back to France someday, we’ll be waiting for you. (When i’m back in France, I will learn that Philip contacted Jeffrey just after we left, asking if he could get in touch with me because he wanted to give me a bottle of wine before we left…)

Back to Grover Beach where we have dinner with Russ and Andrea (Tyler’s uncle and aunt) in a very good mexican restaurant. Then a good night’s sleep at their place. Thank you so much again, Russ and Andrea! We had a wonderful time with both of you:

 

 

 

Tomorrow will be the last leg of the trip to Plaskett. Seeing how we have been welcomed by people who didn’t really know me until now, I can only wonder how it will be, meeting the swaylock’s guys…

 

Later…

Time o' your life Balsa!

 

JD

What a great report. 

What a great report. 

wow ! Balsa!

great story, keep it commin,,,,,

 

I too have met the Greek, he is a very nice man. we talked at the HB city hall for a moment and he offered to show me his shaping style.

I couldnt meet up as too much drama in my life at the time.

I wish him the best, and hope all is well with him.

 

and yes "she is a blonde"

 

You could say that…

 

Sometimes before reaching Plaskett, we stopped at Resinhead Beach:

 

 

 

 

…then at Ragged Point for some coffee and a breath-taking view:

 

 

 

 

And then we reach Plaskett Creek at last. Meeting all those guys that I have known for more than five years but never seen (except on photos for some of them) is almost a shock. I won’t name everybody but it was just great. After saying hello to (I hope) everyone, we unpacked the boards I brought for John and Tyler and John and I exchanged the boards we had made for one another. Now, I swear we didn’t consult each other when making them but the end result is actually astonishing by the similarities between both… Must be another case of “Great minds think alike”…

 

 

 

In the afternoon, as I was walking down to the beach, I saw john taking off with his new board and just had time to shoot this sequence:

 

On that night, we had dinner at Tyler’s spot:

 

 

Tyler had prepared something he called “chicken”; Given the size of each helping, I think that the proper name of these fowls would rather have been “pterodactyls”. Anyway, those marinated pterodactyls were just delicious. As we were finishing eating, we were told that our presence was requested down under at Ray’s spot. So we went there, thinking we were going to spend the evening all together around a campfire with guitars and the like… Next thing I knew, half of the people were wearing basque bérets. We started joking about basque customs and greeting each other with some basic basque words such as “agur” or “milesker”, but we really had no clue as to what was really happening. And then out of nowhere comes that board that they had been making in secret for me, with the bottom saturated with all the logos of the people who somehow took part in it. I was almost anihilated by such a great idea and could not articulate any proper thanks, I’m afraid. Gabrielle was even more moved than I was and couldn’t believe how generous her dad’s friends were. Great memories for her and guaranteed success when she talks to her friends about that evening. Well, when she talks to her friends about the whole trip, actually…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From what I see in your hand, we now have the same bedtime stories !!

Great report, can't wait to see you to have the full details and that green beauty.

Stephane

What a great thread.  Like old Sways.   I look forward to meeting some of you that I have not already met one day.    Balsa...welcome.  Happy to have you here in America. Stay awhile.  

sooooo cooool!

thanks for sharing

Beautiful Story. Thank you!

Wait. Did you surf any of those days???