Can I repair a cracked rail without having to re-shape it?

A while back I got drilled pretty good and ended up slamming my knee into the bottom of my board in front of one of the side fins (really glad it wasn’t worse!) It left a huge pressure ding and the rail was cracked right along the hard edge. Fixing the pressure ding was no big deal, and I just flowed a bunch of resin into the crack hoping that would seal it.

Couple months later, turns out that the rail is not water tight, I now have a bunch of browning creeping into the board. Is there a way I can really seal up that rail without sanding/glassing/sanding … which is basically like shaping the rail again? I don’t quite trust myself to get the rail right, and this is my favorite board.

Ok, first of all - putting a small glass cloth patch on is nothing like shaping the thing. It’s quick, it’s easy and it’s something you should do over just about all repairs. Just painting resin on… as Rocket J. Squirrel said, “Bullwinkle, that trick never works”.

Just sand the glass a little, (don’t go sanding it off, just roughen the surface up a little) , put on a patch of light ( 4-6 oz cloth plus laminating resin) that laps maybe an inch past on all sides, well squeegeed, sand the edges when the resin has gone off, mask around it, do a combination hotcoat/gloss with sanding resin and then sand that with wet/dry from 100 grit to 400 grit or so, finer if you want to polish it afterwards. If your board has a sanded finish, then just sand to 300 grit or so and call it good. Let it dry out first, of course - the water that’s in there is something you want to get out or dried as much as reasonably possible. .

It’s not at all difficult. The light cloth stays close enough to the original shape that you’ll never notice it if it’s done right, in fact it should look just about invisible.

hope that’s of use


Yea doc, that helps, thanks. I’m slowly but surely stepping up my glass tech skills, but the fix you outlined still sounds a little scary to me. Getting that hard edge on the rail worries me the most (this is right by the side fin on a thruster so the edge is a hard 90 degree angle).

I know you’re right though, so I guess its time to step up to the plate.

How long do you think it will take to dry if the browning goes in 4 inches or so?

you’ll be surprised at how well 4 or 6 oz cloth will bend around it all. After all, it did when it was built. Not scary at all. The edge may wind up ever so faintly rounder, but you’ll never notice it. And think about all the complete idiots you’ve seen fix boards… like this bozo:

It’s brown/wet 4" in? Hooboy. I’m gonna say that you should expect it to take a week anyways, and that won’t get it all. You will eventually get delams and such too. I’m afraid you let it go too long. But in the meantime, patch it up.


I know. I blew it. This board will likely be toast before long anyway … its really lightly glassed. I’ll give it a week+ to dry … you live you learn.

I have a new copy of this board getting done in XTR. I believe the shaped blank is at epoxypro already, but I guess they are having some throughput problems with all the new demand for thier glass jobs. With XTR, the water-soak wouldn’t be a problem :smiley:

ah well…think of it as educational.

With no further comment, all I can say is don’t hold your breath waiting for that new board.

I was briefed to the same effect by the shaper. bummer.

Hey guys, the repair went great. Thanks for pushing me over the edge into going for it. Its all blended and sanded perfectly, so you can’t even tell the patch is there (though you can see the browning from before. I had to sand it all by hand since my orbital is TOAST, but that probably made it turn out better anyway.

Good news on the XTR front, my new XTR Mayhem is back from the glasser, so they must have worked through whatever problems they were having. Can’t wait to ride it!

Howzit pickles, I hope you flushed the ding really good with fresh water before you dried it out and fixed it. It's the salt water that makes dings turn brown plus when flushed with water it will dry out a lot faster. Salt water in dings will dry out but leaves sodium crystals which will melt if the area gets hot from the sun or sanding after the repair. This will cause the ding to delam and the brownness will only get worse. Aloha, Kokua

At least he’s got good taste in shapers…Stu Sharpe shapes a good board.

not my board, was just fixing it for a friend.