From what I’ve been told yes. You’re looking for displacement or volume. Sailboards typically are classified by thier volume. I think if the volume is the same it would be close, HOWEVER when you spread out width you use more glass I would think then a narrower thick board, might just be my perception though. That extra glass would add more weight.
up to a point, yes. However, a 29 inch wide, 1 inch thick board is not going to perform very well, if you get my drift…
I’m just not sure whether to get the 10’1y or the 10’7"h?
My current board is 10’x23 1/2x3 3/4. and floats great.
I’m 225lbs and was wondering if i can go wider, say 24"
3 3/8-3.5? and get similar floatation. Thanks Isaac
As you all know, there is an ideal tail width and WP width for the speed of the wave and the size of the surfer. Change either, and the width needs change.
When you add thickness, it floats better, of course, but doesn’t make up for LACK of width in the first place.
Say…you ride a 17" wide board with a 10" tail. Adding thickness certainly helps it catch waves sooner, but in small mushy surf, nothing but added width or lighter surfer can make it work better.
OTOH, an already too wide board, like maybe 23" in 8’ surf, with a lightweight surfer, is not really helped by making in thinner, as the board is just plane too wide to bank over easily, sink a rail, or generally be handy.
So maybe the answer should be…“up to a point”.
I find that boards right about that width (24") or wider start getting uncomfortable to carry (unless you have long arms) and uncomfortable to sit on (unless you have hip dysplaysia). So partly it depends on your body type…
You can also keep floatation up by carrying the thickness at the center of the board further out toward the rails. Or go with the longer blank, sounds like it might suit your needs. I think the 10’1"Y (which is actually about 10’3" long) is a pretty good blank., but with the 10’7" you can go longer, wider, or thicker as you see fit…
youre current board sure is thick!
My guess is that youre bone dry when paddling.
A thinner board (3.5") will likely paddle just as good
but will have improved sensitivity…youll feel the wave better from the decreased thickness.
One of my early mentors, Chuck Shipman, owner of Ali’i Surfboards in Honolulu, told me that a 1/4" increase in width, was the same as adding 3" in length? Whadda’ I know? Beats me. But, Barry Jones is a proponent of wide boards, I did one 11’2" Velzy that was 25-1/2" wide and an 11’6" Ohana Kemp that was 26" wide, both big guys love their boards
Keith…have you ever though about sitting somewhere besides the Widest point of the board?
I’ve sat on boards as wide as 38" (Formula windsurf boards) while rolling up my sail, stuffing the broken parts away, for as long as 15 minutes at a time and it feels OK to me.
I’m also the least flexible surfer I know, as I can’t come close to bending over and coming within 5" of my ankles, much less my feet.
Widest surfboard I ever rode was right around 24", but I never sat near the widest point, which was in FRONT of center of length. I always sit behind the center of length to easily turn the board any direction, as much as needed to lever the nose up in the air a bit.
Yes… “to a point”. Think custom.
Exactly where that point is, depends on the surfer using such equipment, as well as the intended waves. The positives: more width translates to increased stability and glide.
Here is a sampling of Prof. Greg Deets’ surfing equipment. The mat in the back is about 19 1/2" wide, the middle design is 24 1/2", and the surf mat in front is 26".
While 19 1/2" might be a technically adequate width for an average rider`s specs and typical useage, 26" wide for the same size operator, but with a different surfing paradigm could be pure magic…
Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
http://photothru.com/photo_filedb1/A5/E7/E4/A5E7E4/viewable/A5E7E4_131CBA0830E_1.jpg
Isaac, did you read Mc coy’s wide tail thread? It seems that BB’s experiments have lead him to the conclusion that thickness doesn’t help with wave catching - width being the important variable - this is definitely against the accepted wisdom but since coming to this site ive realised that everything I know is wrong.
isaac !! hi,
firstly i have a question you could answer for us , then i think you may get more detailed answers ,
what type of waves do you surf , and what is your intentions??eg what style of manouvers or performance are you looking for???
my story is i compete on longboards , so ultimatly i want the best of both worlds , great walking and noseriding characteristics, plus the most performance and surfability i can get …
i am also 227 lb weighed today…
my longboard is 9’-1" x 24 1/4 x 2 3/8 …wide and thin ,
the width gives great walking stability , early planeing , and increased outline curve which gives more of a shortboard feel…
reduced thickness adds sensitivity plus allows more flex so you can load into tight pocket turns when you want some more rocker,or flatens when on the nose …
plus the reduced thickness allows water onto the deck at higher speeds without deflection, locking it into nose rides in critical sections at speed…
a thickboard is actually less stable to walk on coz its harder to get water over the deck ,you feel like your teetering on top of the water and it feels real tippy…gonna stick in a few photos of wide thin longboards in action…
regards
BERT
Thanks, Bert and to everyone that responded! Im looking to make a longboard that i can ride more as a shortboard, pretty much how you described your boards. I mainly surf beach break here in bolsa and H.B. I’ve been surfing over 20+ years but only get out mainly on weekends. I’ve just started shaping a few boards with my son and I’m HOOKED!
Most of my boards that i bought have been on the thick side, so i have that logic that i need this certain thickness
to float my big butt. Now that i’ve made a few boards for my kids I was going to make one for myself but was wondering if i could go thinner and make a more perfomance oriented board.
Also to everyone who post’s here thank you! This BB has inspired myself and my 12yr old son to build our own boards, I just wish i would have started years ago! Thanks Isaac
Why, no… I always sit exactly at the wide point. Isn’t that what it’s there for??? Sometimes I even turn downrailed boards upside down because that way it’s wider where I sit. I often wonder why people stare at me, tho…
There staring at you because of that red hood & blue wetsuit with the spider web on the back.
Keith…hee haa hee hee!
On another note, I’ve always advocated THICKER tailed boards, with thicker centers also. I’m lightweight, right around 150lbs., and easily ride shortboards 3.25" thick, even at 18" wide, with thick, blocky rails and thick tails.
No, I don’t really duckdive. I just paddle around the break.
I see NO need for sensitivity in surfing. My eyes see what needs to be done with the surfboard, and my brains tell my feet where to put the board.
Of course, I’m a heavy back foot oriented surfer, hate to trim, don’t embrace “speed surfing”, or even emphasize tube riding.
Back around '69, I started to realize and accept the concept of forward trim/thin rails/front foot surfer ideas. Not for me tho, I liked Joey Cabell’s 5" thick Hanalei boards, and actually made the original 9’6"x19 at around 4.5" thick.
More power to you if you like thin tailed boards. Not for me, the thicker rail floats up when I paddle for a wave, allowing the board to glide DOWNHILL onto a plane earlier.
For me, the worst scenario is a wide, thin board that paddles poorly, then picks up the wave unexpectly, to acellerate to too high a speed, forcing a bottom turn wobble while I try to get the rail set, because the dome deck is like standing on a telephone pole!
Whatever floats your boat!!
Dang, my secret identity. I TOLD you not to let that out. Now Jay must die…
ive got 2 current high performance longboards one is 2 5/8, the newest one 2 3/8 plus it has the full concave deck as well , so it always guides you to the centre when walking , ive noticed the concave deck adds even more stability especially when walking backwards on my backhand , that was always a weak point for me , the 2 boards ive got now are both under a year old ,i had this classic favourite i made in 99 , sold it in new zealand last year ,coz excess baggage was a rip off , (air new zealand make more on luggage then on seats…)surfed it for 4 years and it still looked new when i sold it…
as far as getting a board over there??? doesnt look good ,people cant even get em over here,my current eta is february…
im working on some new stuff (as always ) J.R. is going to france in a few weeks im currently building him a new board at 2", its actually gonna be his small wave groveler …
only idea i have is getting others to build em??
dont know how that can be easily done tho???
regards
BERT
Gotta like surfing!!
Funny how Bert B and I can agree on so many aspects of boardmaking and design, yet totally prefer opposing theories on board thickness.
Better yet, he’s 50lbs. heavier than me!
But I’m a hardhead, like what I like, and even the SurferMag Design Editor from '78-85 cannot cause my theories to waver. He’s that classic front foot look for trim and tube riding speedsurfer.
I just stand on the tail, do more turns, and don’t feel anything!