Never met you in person…its only through Sways that I even know what you look like, which it makes this almost like a friend seeing another friend get a sick one. I just wanted to make sure you (and everyone else) saw this picture of you today. Didn’t know if you’d post it, so I couldn’t let it go missed. Waves look perfect (aside from the water color) and this is definitely the nicest action shot of you so far IMO. Shows you really know how to turn that board, and you can see where the paddle comes in while surfing in this pic real well. Can’t wait to check out the sequence, I’m sure he’ll have it up later. It looked fun today, considering what its been. Consider yourself lucky, I haven’t surfed in over a week now because my back is all tweaked. Seems like forever. No fun, especially seeing you score waves like that. Was it crowded or what? I was definitely mind surfing right along with you on that wave. Looks like you are just about to draw a nice line and set up for the fast section of that wave. Wish I coulda been up there too. Hope to meet you in the water someday. (It’ll be easy to find you out there for sure)
Just sharin’ the stoke. Aloha.
Josh
PS. Anyone know where I can get a few new lower lumbar spinal disks real cheap?