.....CARVING the christmas " choooookkkkk " ! *

I hope none of you people get THIS , for a christmas present

christmaspresent.jpg

  at about 6am this morning , while surfing small peelers with Eric ,

 

  my 'aztec gold fin ' test ride number 2 backfired . On a pigdog left hander .

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 I surfed for another hour , hoping it would stop bleeding .

 

 But , with the amount of tiger sharks that have been hanging around here lately , Eric and his family felt it prudent that I paddle in .

 

 

fun  waves , but a while out of the water , now , I guess

 

...maybe ...

 

 

* I was the chook  [or , maybe , a 'goose' perhaps !]

 

Be safe  this season , please people !

 

  cheers

 

  ben

Jesus Ben…thanks for that…

rogelio

haha !

 

  ...you LIKE that , Rodge ?

 

  I have MORE [photos] , if needed ?

 

  I might have to 'proneman' , myself , till it properly heals ?

 

[THE last pigdog in , it started to throb...now I am out of the saltwater and on my feet ...yep , I can definately FEEL  it , as I walk up and down the stairs to where I live ....]

 

  cheers

 

  ben

 

....I just hope that I didn't put anyone off their chrissie food .... it's going to get to 39 degrees C , here today , so I ain't 'slaving over a hot stove ' / oven  , THAT'S  for SURE !

 

:)

 

I was just on my way to Christmas Eve dinner…I think I will be ok…

Merry Christmas to the most Stoked Swaylock Surfer!!!

" Merry Christmas to the most Stoked Swaylock Surfer!!! "

 

cheers mate !

 

.... you too , Roger !

 

  hey , maybe if you print out a few copies of  " the christmas carve" , and distribute them to your relos , prior to ...er... 'grace' ??   ...

 

  then you will have PLENTY  to eat  [ that is , " if " your stomach is stronger than theirs ?]

 

 I'm guessing the spuds , pumpkin , and gravy , and greens will get a hammering , and the soft , fleshy , red / pink meaty bits may get er  'bypassed' , yes ?

 

[and I just hope that there are no red coloured sauces , drinks , or desserts on hand , mate ? ]

 

  :)

 

  stay stoked , stay wet , stay tubed !

 

  cheers

 

  ben

 

".... ho ,  ho (ouch ) , bleeding ho ! "

WOW!  An hour bleeding in the water and THEN they worry about sharks?  You guys must keep 'em well fed down there.  My old beachie in NorCal they were generally drooling and already in the neighborhood - HAH!

Well, I saw what I thought was a wobbegong , RIGHT underneath , me at one stage . Eric saw it too. Then , it broke into three bits , and drifted away .

 

  Seems that shock , seaweed , and blood loss can play tricks on my mind , at times . Or maybe I was just having one of my 'salvador dali moments' ?? [AGAIN]

 

   yes , they [ the sharks , not the dali's !] drool HERE , too...

 

in fact , just last week ....

 

[and I quote ]

 

"13 tiger sharks , ten to 50 metres from shore" ,

 ripped into a dolphin carcass,  that the waves had thoughtfully reclaimed off trigg beach .

It was very well documented , for an hour or so ,  with helicopters flying overhead , reporters on the beach , a hundred spectators . My mate stuey was there and later commented "I suppose I could have got my video camera out of the car , really ' [ ....yes , he probably "COULD" have done THAT .... considering that his car  was only 200 metres away , after all.... " D'OH ! "  ..... good ol' Stuey !  haha !]

 

yeehaaa   "FEED me , Seymour !"

 

ben

 

 

yeeeehaaaawwww !

 

  back in the water , today ...

 

  first time SURFING  since the fateful christmas day ?

 

  I rode the same 9'4 'Cooloola ' mal ,  same back fin ...

 

...no legrope .

 

  no side fins , this time

 

  onshore , chest high 'bombs' , backwashy  ....yikes !

 

 ... but .... empty , more or less

 

  SOOOO nice to be baaaaccck on a board ! [we take it for granted sometimes don't we ?!  ...until  injury strikes ....]

 

  ben