Chambering Balsa

Hi Folks.

I’ve set out on my first Balsa project. I’m photgraphing each step as I go and will post it all when it’s finished. I’ve finished cutting the rocker template into each of the Balsa planks and I’ve got my 3 stringers cut from 6mm ply.

Anyway I’ve got a couple of questions so hopefully you’ll be able to help me out.

1 - I plan to template the board, rough shape it and then split it apart for chambering. How much glue should I use to allow easy separation of pieces and any tips for separating the wood would also be appreciated

2- How much material can I safely chamber out of the Balsa with out risking the deck caving in.

3 - Can you give me some tips on how to glue the chambered sections back together…considerign that the outside edge is smooth curve

Thanks

Brian (Ireland)

Brian,

Sounds like you are about to embark on an interesting project.

Some thoughts:

Perhaps you might want to consider doing the stringers in some wood other than ply. The edges of ply tend to split when I touch them.

There are a number of threads dealing with balsa, but most are using it over eps. Perhaps try searching by name as opposed to subject. Jim Phillips, addressed most balsa threads in the earlier days.

Not much glue is required to hold the pieces together for rough shaping. a few dabs along the lenght. I usually leave enough wood around the template so there is room enough to jam in a paint scraper. Once you crack one the others will follow. As I recall Jim Phillips mentioned cracking one open by tossing it on the floor. This, however, is a move best left to an expert.

I was advised in an old thread not to go closer than about 1/2" to the top and bottom which in my experience is reasonable. For the spans I would use something like 10" as a guideline. The division posts are around 1 1/2". These are only guidelines. The problem is balsa density varies widely and the removal of wood compounds the problem of board balance. The ability to read the wood is what I have found most difficult.

Given it is a rough shape the edges don’t need to be overly smooth. A good book on joints is a useful tool. Usually lots of suggestions about how to glue up objects - bar clamps, straps, bike tubes etc.

Hope this is some use.

Patrick

Edit: Another thought just came to mind. Perhaps it is minor, but the chambers do not line up to form a 10" wide chamber across the board. Rather they are offset with only part of one chamber overlapping the next. If the deck was stripped away the interior would look a bit like a chess board.

Brian,

Track down the posts made by Jim Phillips on the subject. He is simply the best source of “how to” on this topic. And please don’t defile the Balsa with plywood stringers. Use redwood or western red cedar. New question, how’s that board performing for you?