channel bottom screw up?

Hey guys,

 

I’m new to Swaylocks and I just finished shaping my first blank. I was throwing around the idea of parabolic channels after seeing todd proctors lil rascal II. I couldn’t sleep last night so I got up and decided to go ahead and put the channels in the blank. I guess it’s not a good idea to try channels for the first time if it’s 2 in the morning and you aren’t looking at a picture to guide you. I put in 4 channels and instead of starting wide and v-ing out the tail it’s the exact opposite( starts narrow and gets wider throughout the tail). Besides the fact that this makes me a jackass for doing this on my first board, how will it affect how the board surfs.

 

board details 5’8" x 21 x 2-7/16" with wide point 6 inches toward nose.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

Makoa



I havent done channels myself yet, but i own a Wedge shortboard with channels. The channels on mine SEEM to be parallel to the stringer. From looking at your board it looks like you can still set the channels parallel to the stringer.

I don't think its such a bad mistake.

...now cutting out a buttcrack on a twinnie before setting the tail rocker = FACEPALM.....no no DOBLE FACEPALM infact.

Bonzer concaves start out narrow and get wider.

But I guess you’ll find out soon enough!

Enjoy the process.

Hell just sand them out if you don't like them. Those aren't channels, those look more like scratch marks. You haven't caused any harm yet....just lost a bit o tale volume.

I'd be a touch more worried about the overall plan shape? whatch you trying to do willis?  It looks a bit more like an alanaianana thingy?  That is one wide, parallel ass tail you got going. Don't you like to do turns?

 

Give us an idea of what your trying to accomplish and maybe we can take a few humps out that 5 hump camel.

 

Or tell us to "F" off and give it a go.

 

On one more thing.....2 am? WTF, lay off the crack?  2 am is for sleeping.

take resinhead’s comments with a pinch of salt, as they are no doubt a little sarcastic. But, he’s right that you haven’t really put the channels in yet. To be functional they should be over 1/2" minimum depth or yeah, they’re just decoration. I’d wager that if you started re-doing it to the right depth/layout you’d lose the first ones.

Hard to tell if you’ve got a lump in the rear planshape or its the edge rolling under, but worth a look see.

I use masking tape to set my channels out - which I admittedly don’t do often - and cut them with a angle grinder, then clean with a block. Saves loads of time, and actually comes out better… 

2am, yeah, I’ve been there too… glassing idea, fin shape, or just itching to get something done. Some call it crazy, I call it inspiration!

Have fun with it, that’s why we all started

Man what a swaylocks welcome. Nah haha it’s all good (not as bad as my mom thats for sure). I was just trying to shape a small wave board, I saw these dimensions and went with it. I keep watching different videos and adding new things. Anything seems like a good idea at 2am, I swear I was not drunk. Looks like I have some more planning/shaping to think about after I get some more sleep. Any further ideas are welcome, as well as criticism.

 

Makoa

Actually. if you like the channels go for it; they’re in already and sanding them out may make the tail too thin. Nonetheless glassing channels are not easy as the glass tends to lift and bubble if not applied correctly.

 I am not sure I agree with Royal on his views on channel depths, but then again I do not ascribe to the “divine right of Kings” as a good British subject does - my American experience has formed a different character altogether!  And never use an angle grinder to ‘set’ the channels.  And if there was an advanced degree for grinder skills and uses, I would be the one issuing them…

You’ve installed a method for slowing down the board and causing it to slip on the water.

With the setup you have, laminar flow down the length of the board will cavitate at the chines.  Also, when a given volume enters a channel that opens up, the velocity slows.  Additionally, when you’re trying to use chines on boats, skis, boards, etc. for stability, the face of the chine - the part of the groove that should be perpindicular to the flow to act as a rudder - should be as straight and close to the cleanest water which you will be acting on.

If you think about your pics, your angle is correct for encouraging a turn on the face of the chine but the face is on the opposite side of the deck so when you dig your rail for the turn, a slope is presented to the water you’re seeking to use to help push the board around so rather than having water pile up on the face, you’re going to see it slip over the ramp and cavitate.

Now, all that being said, it’s entirely possible some counter intuitive liquid flow mystery science 3K may take place and it works like a charm.

But not likely.

Brian. Thanks for the advice, I’ve taken some fluid dynamics classes and now that you say that it makes total sense. I’m hoping the shallow depth of the channels wont affect the board too seriously. But i’m gonna glass it see how it rides and At least if it blows I’ll never do it again. 

 

 

I agree with brian re. the fluid dynamics.

 

surley you can re-shape the channels so the edges are paralell to the stringer?

Royal hit it right on the head.  I'm not trying to be mean...just a pain in the ass.

 

Just glass that beast and see what it does. Then next time, look through the archives here and research what works, make a very simple board with out a bunch of variables.  

You design in this post is going to have to be executed perfectly for it too work properly, and I'm not sure what your idea of working properly is?  I'm assuming that you haven't built many surfboards.. Please, please for the sake of your sanity make a simple surfboard first, then over time start adding bumps channels, wings concaves, etc, etc.

But you have gone down the road of experimentation, finish it up and report back to us.

 

Here's where i help out and give you a tip:

When you glass those channels, lay some resin and laminate the very bottom grove edge first....let it kick off, then come back and laminate the rest of the board.  If you try it all at once you will get bubbles in the channel edge, and everytime you pull the cloth tight your going to move the cloth and make more bubbles and problems.

I went ahead and glassed it, almost done with it, just gotta touch up a few things and put in the pluggs. will get pitures up next week as well as let you guys know how it surfs as I’ll be cruising the obx looking for waves this week. Thanks for all the advice. This was my first board, a little over ambitious but I was stoked the whole time i made it. Next board will be an easier design.

 

Makoa