ok the guy on the boardwalk or at Sardis with the sketch pad and an eye for rendering that one physical atribute present in Clark Gable’s countenance, the ears… and so he starts the drawing and every body recognizes… that damwell looks [?] just like him…
Biffy twostep finds the inside section at anyplace beach usa and makes it his own … biffy’s favorite trick- trip is the bus to the beach and the inside section noseride,thank you t.campbell article in tsj…
so this is not universal wave .this is not gods Eye wave this is not anything but an exploded Nuance on a rotating spit over the fire slowcooked and screwtenized by the hand warmers at the fire at the pit…watch dewey inside section…here comessssJOHNNY>>> and lance is next, and dora after and munoz and and and and
so what is it but riding an isolated facet of wave on a vehicle/tool of common materials and the shape but a charicature like that drawing of Gable at the Brown Derby … that board for the nose ride is specialized and cool but not the end but a place to stop time along the way and explore an environ fleeting but vacant in the eb and flow of time. In a crowded world becoming more crowded,what else is new,these places and moments are cherished and few…
Is basing one life on revisiting these cabbage patch doll places in time the appropriate measuring stick of a creative mind yes and know…The 300 personas al dia that get the act down elbowing another 'my share" are justifying their veritability …,
An bless them for not fighting over a chamois at the car wash ,heaven forbid, the hot guys at the car wash get there when no one is in line and slide through and get the new chamois ,debead the car and are pulling away* as the 300 are showing up from Tarzanna,Heliotrope ,Sherman Oaks …[and his boy sherman],Culver city and dont forget San Bernadino,by the way this is where the’’ I live here’’ guys originally came from that park on the peak and claim rights becauase they simply out lived Dora…30 years of the inside section bless their hearts…like learnin math and stopping at fractions because x=Y gets too hard…ambrose…no one out at Old Joes and his score pad only registers roller coasters on trash bags
read johnny Fain’s ‘Autobiography at the Topanga Car Wash’ availiable from martin sugarman’s H20 press out at christmas… gift shoppers alert…was that ‘Johhnnie Fain’…?..yes it was AN’ I play tennis with him occasionally although I am on another court we wave occasionally
An bless them for not fighting over a chamois at the car wash ,heaven forbid, the hot guys at the car wash get there when no one is in line and slide through and get the new chamois ,debead the car and are pulling away* as the 300 are showing up from
When the carwash has carwash cams running 24/7, along with every other significant carwash within an hour drive either way up and down the coast having the same thing, with road/highway condition updated every 8 minutes…and there are pay-to-view carwash forecasts which run from 3-10 days out into the future with amazing accuracy…not to mention those goddamned cell phones and the human ape’s seeming inability to just stand back and let it all be, man…can you grasp sitting in the dark at 5:30 in the morning and have another vehicle pull up and idle for 20 minutes to keep the heater on while the driver waits for the mist to clear enough to see if there is any surf at all, and then have the guy turn the car off and whip out his cell phone before 6 in the morning and make calls to the Bros so absolutely nothing will go unmolested…
With respect and more cheerfulness than this post would lead you to expect, may I suggest someone who has staked out a section of a wave to make his or her stand on may simply be trying to adapt to contemporary circumstances. Your points are all well taken but everybody can’t move to the tropics - actually, given the economic climate maybe everybody could, at least for a while - but that would wreck the landing zones.
I remember making my mother load my sister in her stroller then walk us down to Brooks Street Laguna Beach so I could watch those guys and girls surf. Mike Doyle? Marge Calhoun? Joey Cabell? Maybe, maybe and yes and there I would sit in the sand not missing one wave as if my life depended on it. And it was dangerous for the watermen of the day not killed by a bigger than big wave, but getting smacked with your own board on a 6’ day said my mom. Matadors in my mind that could magically make the wave bull bend and peel to their will. Is it just a sport with an unusually long learning curve? Is it a media driven lifestyle? Is it something to be coveted by backdoor foreign country international spies? I remember making my father load me in the Mercury wagon and drive me to Killer Dana on the big days so I could watch the surfers. Then my mom would drive us down to Big Corona so my friend and I could start our personal surf quests first on those red and blue mats then on those molded styrofoam things. And then I got my first SURFBOARD a Hobie with a license on it. There’s a lot more to surfing than I thought. A summer of brushing up my swimming skills at the “Blue Boy” school. It looked so easy from my vantage point on the shore. Anyone can do it. If it wasn’t easy how come there were so many surfers? I could ride a bike after one day. Hey if you don’t know how to surf it shows. Not like tennis where you can swing at some balls and kinda have it down after maybe a weeks lessons. Maybe the learning curve makes you feel like you possess the wave that gave you your first true ride all the way to shore. Then when you have that move down pat the inside section is your wave forever to be your signature ha out of my way I can even be out here drunk show some respect. If only I could sketch the smile on Joey Cabell’s face when he leaned down over me dripping salt water shook my hand and said to my mom - “future surfer - eh?”