It’s got its own thread because someone mentioned this wave a while ago. [ And, thank you to Scott Dittrich…]
the board…
the wave…
“mummy, daddy !! chip’s posting photos again…um…ah…I’m telling on you …waaaaa…waaaaa…” [wankers!]
You have to have some serious talent to ride a board like that in a wave that size.
Nice one chip - - I enjoy your pics - -but on a design issue - how is it that such a wide tail holds in big surf? - So far… I think that it has to do with the bottom shape - ie - convex, rails (very soft) and the rider skill. Maybe also… tail width ain’t such an issue as the current dogma suggests?
Look where the fin is in the first photo, that’s a lot of the holding power! Amazing sequence.
I saw Grant Oliver, for those who remember, surf Fairy Bower in 71 or 72 on a 4’8 twin and it was huge. Sydney waves don’t have Hawaiian power but in pure size it was bigger than the wave Cheyne’s on.
Didn’t think Cheyn’s wave was really that small. Isn’t there a pic of him on a bigger wave?
Who says the board held in? He’s doing a wobble turn, fighting to keep the rail down, bouncing like a superball, and notice he never tried again!
And, at the time, he was certainly considered the best single fin shortboard rider.
I think that’s a pretty tough calling the last shot a wobble turn…so LeeDD whyo are you nominating as better in what was it 79…80 somewhere around there.
Gutzy move, but it looks like to me that he’s not going to make the sequence. Between shot 2 & 3 he should have projected further down the line. In the last shot look at the position of the nose, it’s sticking straight up. He’s giving it all he can to hold on. The other guy has a much better trim position to make the wave.
-Jay…my 10 cents worth.
You might try comprehending whatever it is you read!
You are not Blindboy, you are incomprehensionboy.
And no, he didn’t make his Wiamea wave, he straightened out, which is better than what most anyone would do on such a small board standing up.
…d’oh sorry about that…I imagined a “not” in there
Cheyne was and is the most complete surfer in the world from 2 to 60 feet. The board held in because it was a Mccoy and because Cheyne is a super freak. Larry Blair won pipeline two years in a row (almost three) because his Mccoys held in. Thats a typical trait of a Mccoy. Not saying he is the only talented shaper out there, but each one does have his own area and I believe Geoff’s is being a complete, inovative and balanced shaper.
Cheyne has ridden boards almost that short today in tow in surf. He paddled into that wave and made the drop when many surfers would have never made it out.
Geez, solosurfer, you are very knowledgeable about design and such, but you come off as such a butt monkey in this one.
What are you, a pure driven salesman? You gotta sell McCoy and Cheyne just constantly?
Hey, I DID say you are knowledgeable!
Freak! geeze though that tail is hella wide even if chyne is was the best… shawly a narrow tail would go better?
I remember seeing the footage and how insane it was to see him dropping in on that board at Waimea. It looked like a pretty wild ride, and he ended up straightening out. The board didn’t seem to work to well. But, he did paddle into it, and something needs to be said about a board of that size that can do that.
I know that Cheyne sometimes checks in here. I would love to hear him elaborate on one of the ballsyest moves of all time.
LeeDD baby,
Sorry to come on too strong on this subject. I am not trying to sell Mccoys here. Everyone knows how I feel about them. I was commenting on the wide tail working in big surf question. A typical trait of a Mccoy is holding power. Thats the point I was making.
I have followed Cheyne’s career closely since the late seventies. I thought he was the best then and believe he has gotten better and more of a complete balanced surfer since then. It’s nothing more than that really.
I like many many other surfers surfing, Dane Kealoha, Buttons, Egan, Elkerton, Rabbit, Machado at pipe, Joel on a longboard. I think not so well know guys like Charlie Kuhn and Pat Mulhern are pretty darn good as well.
On shapers Greg Pautsh, Steve Forstall, Jeff Bushman, Kirk Bierke, Ricky Caroll and local shaper Steve Stack. The list could go on but these are some of my favorites.
LeeDD,
You and I don’t totally agree on board design all the time, but I respect your views and opinions. I feel wide tails have been given a bum rap about only being small wave designs. If they are shaped properly and are under the feet of someone who knows how to surf they are valid for some pretty good size. I am no big wave rider, but I think probably narrower is better for bigger surf. I think Cheyne was out to prove a point and he did just that. I feel the worst place to get board advice or information about surfing or surfers is from Surf magazines which are driven primarily by advertising dollars.
Why Butt whatever on this thread? You do toss around names a bit, but then again, I am pretty outspoken on certain subjects myself.
What no leash?
I have a replica of that board in my garage rafters. Pretty sure it doesn’t go a good as the original but I’m keeping it forever.
Chip, any picture that illustrates a design principle or construction technique or sparks conversation about surfboards is very welcome. (Especially Cheyne pics).
Thanks
Thanks Rob, now can you please post some of your Cheyne and other shots again ? I know you’re a fan, and that you’ve got some good ones from … [are we allowed to say?] er archives. Cheyne would be stoked to see them too, I’m sure.
It WILL be interesting to hear his recollection of that wave, as well as what he is riding even as we type…
ben
p.s. - now, if I can just find a dvd copy of ‘scream in blue’… anyone ??
Quote:
I feel wide tails have been given a bum rap about only being small wave designs. If they are shaped properly and are under the feet of someone who knows how to surf they are valid for some pretty good size. I am no big wave rider, but I think probably narrower is better for bigger surf. I think Cheyne was out to prove a point and he did just that. I feel the worst place to get board advice or information about surfing or surfers is from Surf magazines which are driven primarily by advertising dollars.
Whereas, the demonstration of marginal performance under the feet of someone who would be more skilled on a barn door than I am on my shortboard is a better way to get board advice?
Sorry, the best way to convince a surfer of something is to put it under his feet and let him try it. The next best way is to present evidence of a surfer similar in ability to yourself getting an unbiased chance to try different shapes.
Seeing a near-god level surfer achieve something is horribly un-informative about how that same board would work for the average (or even well above average) surfer. I may never get piped on any surfboard like Cheyne gets piped on a Mccoy single, BUT THAT DOESN"T MEAN THE MCCOY SINGLE IS MY BEST SHOT AT GETTING PIPED LIKE CHEYNE.
It’s a cool stunt. Cheyne oughta come repeat it this Friday at Mavericks…
Quote:
Quote:"…It’s a cool stunt. Cheyne oughta come repeat it this Friday at Mavericks…
Now, wouldn’t THAT be an idea, eh ? [ kinda like the 20th / 25th anniversary repeat performance of the waimea ride, except in cali …]
Are you by any chance reading this, Cheyne ?
Blakey could get the footage from his board as he takes off [?behind you?] perhaps … coooollll !!
…You read it first here on Swaylocks…
ben
