I've several questions regarding my first attempt at a chambered build. The stock I'm using is reclaimed fir from gym bleachers ~1x12" and varying lengths, It has been planed and I will rip pcs slightly wider than the depth of the board. My thoughts are to:
1. Cut the rocker out of each pc, then glue up three at a time forming a "bundle", I believe I am in good shape here with respect to clamps, but am not sure about the glue type or the cure time.
2. Once I have a sufficient number of bundles I would then do a temporary glue up on all units for the cutting the outline (plan shape?), coarse and next to final finish work. So my question on the temp glue up is: How far apart should the spots of glue be and how large should they be?
3. Once I do the temp glue up of the bundles my thoughts were to use ratchet-~1" wide nylon tie down straps to snug up everything. Please debunk this notion for me before I attempt it. Alternatively, sing the praises of such a method.
Best regards and happy Labor Day weekend to all.
Chris
No trees were utilized for purposes of this transmission. However, numerous electrons were displace from their orbital shells.
Hey Cmbacot, If you still have milled square edges on the lumber, regular clamps or pipe clamps are better.If the rails are turned or roughed out the web clamp will do. For temp glueing use wood glue or Elmers’ and I’d only put a dot at nose middle and tail. An alternative is to use double stick tape for temporary lay up. For final glue up use, epoxy if the boards have been joined and have no gaps. If not, use Gorrila Glue to fill any void. PeteC just said they make a clear formula now.
The glued faces are going to slip and not line up if you just use straps.
A combination of say six clamps and six straps alternated could work for final glueing and clamping.
The best glue for final glue up is Titebond 3.
An alternative to the temporary spot glueing is to screw the pieces together and just spot glue the last piece. Drill the screws where the chambers will be.
Staggered chambering is the go for strength.
Chambering reduces the weight by about 50%.
Check out the recent chambered paulownia builds on the old tree to sea site for more information.
With the epoxy, you can use the same stuff for laminating but, I’d get some 30min stuff from the hardware store. “System Three” is a good brand. Lam resin works but it has the longer work time.
Pinny, for multiple glue ups titebond will take a long time to cure. If I’m reading this right, he’s going to glue up a few pieces at a time in sections with only a few clamps. The old rule is right about you can never have too many clamps. But if you only have a few for one section at a time the quicker 30 min epoxy would allow more sections completed per day.
Yes, I will glue up 3 pcs at once. i'll look for the clear Gorilla Glue and use mfrs cure times. I've got plenny clamps for this part. Once all these bundles are permenantly glued up, I'll do the temp glue of bundles and shape almost to finish using the 1/4 to 3/8 rule, then bust bundles apart with hardwood wedge and chamber. I've not considered how to seal or if to glass yet..suggestions? Also I'm assuming the fin boxes go in after the final sealing/glassing via router and jig?
Cmbacot, The glassing question is up to you. Do you surf a rocky break? Reef? Are you hard on boards or don’t use a cord, it all depends. A 6/4 or 4/4 glass job would make it last and add some weight.Your choice. Fins go on after lam coat if glass ons.Boxes can be put in at any stage before glass, after hot coat, any time. Before glass job is strongest. Make sure you leave enough meat to accept the boxes.