ok, so im really wantin to get some nose time, my most recent board doesnt cut it 9’1" concave nose. which clark blank would be best for what i want? I was leaning towards the 9’8" superblue. Also, what adjustments would be needed to dial the board in? Im 180, 5’11. Moderate level, just tryin to get those toes on the nose… thanks in advance…
stay stoked---- Caleb
I’d start with a 10’1"Y and make it classic weight foam. Lots of tips in the archives for what makes a good noserider board, but a lot of it is just rider skill and practice…
LOTS of tail rocker. I read here a while back that one of the tricks to old noseriders was to use the nose of the blank as the tail.
That said, most noseriding is IMHO more rider technique and board positioning than it is the board’s design.
I’ll second that motion from Mr. Melville. I have two boards that I made using the 10’1y blank and after a few (that’s pronounced fifty or more) spills and thrills, I actually get some decent time up front. I used the standard rocker and it seems to work fine. The boards have different templates, different rails, different tails, different fins, and still work for tip time. Good luck.
Ride on. Tom
nose of the blank as the tail? meaning same dimensions on the nose as in the back? I understand the volume aspects, still tryimg to make up my mind on the concave part. Lots of folks here say that only the best nose boards have a concave, but it just didnt seem to work for me on the last like i said. Im thinkin jus move the balance point up, and add volume on the back, and try to minimize the rocker. Does that sound like a decent plan? I know the only way to really know is jus to build the thing, but i value all opinions here…
even roys, though hes hard to handle sometimes… sorry bout my backlash the other day roy, if u read this.
Thanks in advance, stay stoked, - Caleb
“do or do not, there is no try”- Yoda
Caleb, Think of the spoon principle. It will focus you on some helpful ways water works. What is the spoon principle? Funny you should ask…
Turn on your sink faucet letting the water run down at moderate volume. Then take a teaspoon loosely holding the handle at the end, and let it hang vertically next to the water flow. First, have the concave side toward the stream of water and move it in until it touches the water. It will want to bounce back away from the water.
Now hold the convex side up to the water flow. The spoon will be sucked into the stream of water.
The spoon principle applies to surfboard rocker. If you make the tail rocker so that it begins to resemble the convex side of a teaspoon, the tail will hold down as water flows over it. Good for noseriding. That’s why Lance Carsen turned his blanks around to shape noseriders. He got more rocker in the tail that way.
You’ll also notice that noseriders usually have soft 50/50 rails. Convex surfaces. A lot of sucking going on.
If you order a 10 1Y blank and you want to make a noserider, consider ordering the blank with plus 3/4" tail rocker, last 24". Doug
“Nose of the blank as the tail”
Meaning take the existing nose of the blank and use that to shape the tail and vice versa, not same dimensions.
This will give you added rocker in the back/tail.
I’m not sure this makes a much sence now that blanks come in so many variations. I’d look for a blank that that talks
about rocker options for noserider configurations. 10’7"H has a nose rider configuration.
Yes concave should help but I’d say it is over rated, meaning the other aspects of the baord will make a bigger impact.
rail shape: round boxy 50/50 in the mid section transitioning to pinched in the tip and tail
rocker: smooth long entry rocker with tail kick (rocker balance behind center to give a platform to stand forward on)
no hard edges
this is what seems to be consistant abotu good nose riders, but others may disagree.
clarks 10’1Y is an excellent blank to shape reversed. i’ve shaped quite a few as nose riders and even with the extra tail rocker they paddle very well. it’s a blank that is used alot in fla.