Just wondering how clean lines can be made in a two, three, four tone or however many tone color lamination can be made? like real sharp, crisp lines. Maybe not necessarily straight, not sure if thats possible, but where the two colors don’t blend together. I was thinking that they do it with a roller? example would be some of the Lucky Bastards color work you see on lost boards and what not. like in the pic. and also, in the pic with the 5 or 6 boards lined up, how do they do this those tail patches with color? is it just an inlay set over the color lam, and then boxes routed in after? or are they doing something else there? AAANNDDD, how do you think they are doing those trash tints? Please and thank you. Oh and one more. how do you get a cut lap where you wont have the pencil line showing after?? kind of at a loss for that one. for a board where you wouldn’t pinline. if you feeling generous then thanks and aloha! give up da secrets
and also, in image 122 with the pics with the 8 boards, do they lam the deck first so that their is no discoloration on the rails from the clear laps from the bottom?
and actually, what the hell is going on in the first board on the deck? any ideas?? pretty damn confused on this one.
I also always wondered how that works. Until I saw the simple solution in a factory: first painting the shaped blank and then a clear glassing.
Sounds simple, but needs some experience because you can see all air bubbles and dry glassing, especially on darker colors.
its resin pigments. you can see that there is the slightest level of overlap in certain areas. but ever so slight. to get those edges that clean while also getting those areas to be saturated without being a dry area mystifys me. thats why i would think a roller. trying to squeegee a puddle of colored resin back and forwarth over the same line until its properly saturated would be impossible, and it seems pretty clear in those pictures that they aren;t airbrushes. any other guesses? anyone really know??
Lucky Bastards glassing I think… Beautiful work from those very skilled bastards. I rarely ever read the Shaper’s Hot Seat but I’d be all over it if we could get those guys on the hot seat.
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no easy way just very carefull work with squeegee, not blending colours on joins hard at first but you get use to it . paper pinned on areas so to avoid drips/resin where its not meant to be , plan out before you start make sure everything is clear what goes where ,lighter delicate colours last if you can,
…I spend up to hour per side on a longboard laminating time only…tape up and lap cutting more time …floating decals again more time.hihih
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Xx8n54K9OU Check out how he uses the brush to sturate the cloth with the opaque resin in this video. then he does the light blue transparent afterwards. But I have never tried to be so precise so not totally sure.
Those trashy looking boards are lammed with a tint/pigment. Then you can add tint/opaque pigment to your hotcoat, black, dark blue or whatever you want. When you sand the hotcoat arround the laps or the glass patches over deacls it gives it that trashy look. To avoid a pencil line on cutlaps you just need to learn how to tape off for a cutlap without using the pencil jig. Need to do it by eye and tape out a nice curve freehand. Or instead of a pencil you can sharpen a dowel and put that in your jig. Lightly scratch out your cutlap line on the foam. tape along the light scratch. As far as the 1st board goes, I think they did a regular two tone lamination (light purple/orange) on the whole board with a fibergalss tail patch on the deck. Then it looks like they did resin panels (white/light orange) on the deck and taped off inside the cutlap to give it that awesome contrast look. really cool stuff. I am still a huge noob though so i hope I didnt give you bad advice. Hopefully some pros chime in because I am really interested too. Some glassers are so good at what they do. it is amazing.
Just juice that is some very clean work!
Surf O … all good advise .the trashy looking board with the coloured hot coat…usually hotcoat board with out decals do the sanding back to base colour, then float the decals on top ,sand feather in … then finsh coat …feels strange covering perfect tinted board with black hot coat… be sure to sand it off really early ,before it goes really hard…
thanks Huck …I have done a couple thousand tint pigment boards,so getting there.hihihih
Just Juice, Sick work man. those board are so nice. When you float a decal/logo, how do you do it? do you just apply logo to the sanded hotcoat with lam resin and put a fiberglass patch on top? then sand and gloss?
thank you .yupss just lam on make sure nice and flat …one layer of 4 oz on top…little hotcoat , then sand flat…finsh coat time…
Lost’s glasser of choice does nothing but clears. They will do clears over painted or "stained blanks, but absolutely no color (opaque or tint) in the resin. So these were either paints/stains or done as a specialty order by another glass shop. If those are stains you would not be able to tell the differance from a photo. You would be able to tell though if you could see the board in person.
This is a pic of a luckybastard lost board I saw in a shop in Australia back in march, I love the stuf they do. It looks like this one was a foam stain clear lam and coloured hot coat.
yes base colour on foam or maybe a tint in laminate, then “drips” added with clear resin let it set …then hot coat purple… heard this called bumpies ,cause the board has lots of bumps when you give it to the sander…bit work for him to cut all the drips flat
Knowing The Lucky Bastards, I doubt it is a foam stain (no paint for sure)…
You can get this things done in the lam, especially on the deck where you use 2 layers of cloth if you laminate one after another… just saying 
Jean G.
yea kinda hard to tell ether way im sure they could pull booth off easy i love there choice of colours and designs.