OK ~ I’ll have the first board that I’ve ever built from square one hotcoated tomorrow and if things go according to plan after I sand it out I’m planning to do a little pinline work and then clear coat it. There are lots of options out there – urethane, verithane, water base acrylic and probably several others. The board is a super light 6’4"x18.5"x2.25" that’s laminated in a single 4oz bottom and 4oz deck with a 3/4 length 4oz. patch in E-glass with Resin Research epoxy. I’m don’t want to add any more weight to the board than I have to so a poly gloss coat isn’t an option and doesn’t appeal to me anyway.
I know that there are some two part urethanes out there that are brushable that might work but I’m just not sure dropping $50.00 into clear coat material even though it’ll do several boards would really be worth the difference. Why would I want to choose one them over the water base acrylic sealer (so easy – no fumes – no clean up – dry in ten minutes) that is the material of choice in many of the good glass shops here in Santa Cruz?
Acrylics are relatively cheap and easier to work with. The urethanes are far more durable, that’s why it’s used for clear coating cars. It isn’t cheap, and there’s a lot of nasty lacquer-like fumes. If your board sees a lot of wear and tear, you’re going to be using this stuff again over repairs. Go to an automotive paint supplier; check with a local paint/body shop and they’ll direct you to one. They’re pretty knowledgeable, and will hook you up with the manufacturer’s applications rep if you want.
The two part urethanes are increadibly tough and incredibly nasty to work with. Full cover up and respirator required…Not kidding here! I have had some problems with fisheye caused from hot coat wax residue in pinholes. Automotive acryylic laquer is my next choice. similar to Krylon in the can but I can use my spraygun set up. Stuff like Future is OK but I have had problems with it “milking…turning white” in the water. Future is dry to the touch in 15 minutes but requires 8 hours to fully cure. Hence the label saying “can be recoated in 6 to 8 hours” Had great luck with the Krylon in a pinch also clear furniture laquer from Home Depot (non-yellowing formula) works great also if you want to polish it out.
I did some consulting at the local auto paint shop and I can get a PPG product it’s DCU 2021 Quart clear DCX61 Activator. $41.60, $24.20. It’s a brushable product so I don’t have to get into reducers and spray equipment. I’m almost ready to try it on my fins and the deck to seal the pin striping cause I don’t think the water base acrylic will get the job done, but I’m hoping I’ll get convinced that it will cause I’m much rather stick with the much less toxic material. I’m not sure what I should do with the board. I know for sure that I won’t be setting up to spray the stuff. It would cost me a $100,000.00 to set up to spray the stuff where I am.
If it’s just a single board, get it done at a auto body shop that does painting. They do clearcoats everyday and can probably do it with what’s leftover from a job.
Rich, That’s the stuff I’ve used. Very expensive. Comes thin enough to spray right out of the can. I think you could brush it on if you work fast so it can flow out. The stuff dries pretty fast. You can get different speed activators for the weather conditions. If you use the slower activator it will probably be easier to brush with good results. Wax residue from your hot coat will be your worst enemy. Bert posted he brushes that stuff on the worst of his pinhles etc. after his rough sand (80) and then fine sands and recoats. That seems like your sanding off some rather expensive coating but I’m sure the result would be good at reducing fisheye. I bought some fisheye reducer additive but the results were marginal. The stuff will kick in 45 minutes or so and be sandable in an hour if necessary. Wait one day and it is super tough and will polish like glass. They should have some straight acryllic lacquer clear also but this is a spray on product. They should also have UPOL in the can(spray). Future acryllic will not seal your pinlines! It will come off in the water where your legs rub and off comes your pinlines! I sprayed my last board with Krylon out of the can with good results. 3 coats and wetsand with 400/600 then buffed and it came out great. I’m still looking for the best option. Talking to the autobody/paint shop is not a bad idea but they probably won’t do it for free.