i have a wooden board that has been coated in linseed oil. its mostly dried out. i know epoxy will crater with the oiled(linseed) surface and have confirmed this with a little test patch.
anyone know of how to completely remove the oil so i can epoxy over the wood? I’m thinking turpentine? any suggestions?
I can’t say for sure this will work on your board, but I use denatured alcohol to clean my wood boards prior to glassing with epoxy. It might need several applications, but it should get the residue off. You might try applying it with a scotch brite pad or something similar.
Good luck,
Denatured alcohol, and cabinet scrapers. Might try a heat gun to soften things up first, scrape, then alcohol soak, then scrape again. Repeat as needed.
thanks for that. ive been trying both turpentine and denatured alcohol and it seems to be getting it out pretty well. fingers crossed the epoxy goes on well now!
The Turpentine will leave a residue, the Alcohol will not. Make your final process the Alcohol. Less likely to have a reaction from the epoxy.
thrailkill is right on the turpentine and alcohol. As a furniture maker this is how I do it. I would scrub it good with the turpentine and a green pad or white pad and wipe it clean with clean old t shirts. check for any turpentine bleed out aftere about 15 minutes if there are any little turpentine spots wipe again with clean t shirts. check again every 15 minutes wiping it down if you see any bleed out. When there is no more bleed out you can wipe it down with alcohol. Wear gloves , keep it clean, no body oil means no fish eye. Then to prep it for the epoxy brush on or spray on one coat of Zinsser Bulls Eye Seal Coat ( its 100% dewaxed shellac) do not use any other kind of shellac !!! Let it dry over night and then you are good to go on the epoxy. Remember keep it clean, no grubby little hand prints. Ive done it many hundres of times and have never had a failure. You really dont need to use a card scraper unless there is a very messy surface build up. Ahui hou- Wood_Ogre
Aloha Wood Ogre,
You presented good info. Many people get confused on all the various thinners, solvents, etc. - what works for one finish doesn’t work for another. For those of you here on Sway who don’t work with finishes on a regular basis, the following is a short summary that may help clarify some of the questions on the generally available commercial products out there.
Richard
Paint Thinner
The best accepted, most economical, general purpose solvent.
Thinning: A general purpose solvent. Use with most oil based paints, varnishes, stains,
polyurethanes and wiping oil finishes. Do not use with shellac, lacquers or latex paints. Helps
increase flow and reduce brush drag or pull. Extends drying time slightly. Aids leveling.
Cleaning: A mild solvent. Use to clean painting tools while coating is still wet. Will not soften
dry paint well.
Mineral Spirits
A high grade, quality solvent, low odor.
Thinning: A general purpose solvent. Use with most oil based paints, varnishes, stains,
polyurethanes and wiping oil finishes. Do not use with shellac, lacquers or latex paints. Helps
increase flow and reduce brush drag or pull. Extends drying time slightly. Aids leveling.
Cleaning: A mild solvent. Use to clean painting tools while coating is still wet.
Gum Turpentine
The best quality paint solvent.
Thinning: The ideal strength for thinning most oil based paints, varnishes, stains,
polyurethanes and wiping oil finishes. Not compatible with shellac, lacquers and latex paints.
Helps increase flow and reduce brush drag or pull. Will not increase drying time noticeably.
Aids leveling.
Cleaning: Gum Turpentine leaves a slight rosin residue. Excellent for cleaning brushes and
paint roller trays after painting.
General: Made from the living pine tree. Gum Turpentine is the painter’s traditional favorite. Its
strength and evaporation rate are the same as most paints. Read cautions on label carefully.
Lacquer Thinner
A thinner for one part epoxies and lacquer wood finishes.
Thinning: This is a specialized thinner. Use to thin epoxy or two part coatings. Consult coating
manufacturers specifications. Use to thin nitrocellulose based wood lacquers. Do not use with
acrylic lacquers, automotive lacquers, varnishes, shellac, polyurethanes or paints.
Cleaning: Clean painting tools after painting. Will soften most types of coatings with overnight
immersion in Lacquer Thinner. Will attack some synthetic brushes. The favorite for cutting
grease on metal parts, etc. Prolonged exposure can attack seals and gaskets. Much stronger
than Paint Thinner and more flammable.
Denatured Alcohol
The safest, purest grade of denatured ethyl alcohol.
Thinning: Alcohol is used to thin shellac based products only. Use with clear or orange shellac
or pigmented shellac primers. Do not use with other finishes.
Cleaning: A specialty cleaner. Use to clean painting tools after using shellac. Will soften dry or
hard shellac. Can dissolve most inks, lipsticks, crayons and many other stains. General: This
is the best grade of fuel for alcohol chafing dishes and stoves. Complete combustion
produces no harmful gases or vapor. Alcohol is soluble in water and can be used as an antifreeze
agent. However, it evaporates rapidly and is flammable. Read cautions on the container
before using.
Boiled Linseed Oil
A natural oil preservative treated to dry faster. General: Use as directed as an additive to
many paints or stains, will increase flow coverage and gloss. An essential part of many
coatings, aids water repellency. Helps prevent unfinished wood from drying, checking or
cracking. A thin coat will inhibit rust formation on metal. Rags or cloths soaked with linseed oil
must be handled carefully. Linseed oil releases heat as it dries. Soaked rags in confined
areas could combust spontaneously. Wash rags after using linseed oil.
Acetone
The strongest, fastest evaporating solvent.
Thinning: A specialty solvent. Use only where directed. Generally for epoxies, fiberglass resins
and specialty coatings. Acetone is too strong to use in thinning most coatings.
Cleaning: Use to clean painting tools after applying any type of coating. Will soften hardened
coating with overnight immersion. Caution: Will soften most synthetic materials. General: The
extreme strength limits thinning uses to specialty coatings. The high evaporation rate also
means it is very flammable.
Xylol
A solvent for specialty coatings and uses.
Thinning: Use as directed to thin many lacquers, rust inhibitive, rubberized, marine and other
specialty coatings. Do not use with most oil based paints, varnishes, stains, shellac or
polyurethanes.
Cleaning: Clean painting tools. For all types of coatings except shellac. General: Most uses for
Xylol are in specialized coating systems where its use is carefully designated. Xylol fumes are
flammable and ingestion is dangerous. Read label cautions carefully.
MEK
The high strength solvent with a moderate evaporation rate.
Thinning: A specialty solvent. Use only where directed. Generally for epoxies, fiberglass resins
and specialty coatings.
Cleaning: Use to clean painting tools after applying any type of coating. Will soften hardened
coating with overnight immersion. Caution: Will soften most synthetic materials. General: This
is a solvent with a strength equal to Acetone but with a slower evaporation rate. It is flammable.
Read cautions on the label carefully.
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