good swell here for the last few days - but holidays here make crowds at the reglr spots unbearable, so i went to a small point i know and pretty much had it alone – only about chest-high faces, but rides could be close to 300 yds.
I started to try riding my Liddle 7’4" further back… back foot right over the fin, or just behind it, and i was pretty pleased with the way the board maneuvered… the thin tail…well it could really slice some nice turns. Never spun out (but waves wuz small where i was at) On most waves, i would move back and forth a bit, but on a few i stayed close to the tail the whole wave… really surprised me that performed so well. I also would sometimes catch a wave and just trim in the pocket the whole way.
Yea i think LeeV recommended staying on the hull for at least 7 or so sessions. I’ve been tempted on occasion to go out on my fish, but every time i take the hull out i learn something new about it, so that’s a good bit of advice.
I’ve found that you can definitely use the tail on a hull but you may want to limit the use. For example, I’ll slide my rear foot over the fin, or slightly back, to kick out of a wave. These puppies will spin on a dime once you find the sweet spot. Just don’t get used to turning off the tail on bottom turns or you’ll get a big surprise at the wrong time. Concentrate on using your rails more than the fin. It’ll be much more satisfying! But hey, I’m still learning too.