concave...must...get...help...

Okay…I still haven’t figured it out: What’s the difference between a concave that blends into the very tip of the nose (like Hap Jacobs’ H-1), and the regular concave that stops just a couple inches before the tip (like on all Bruce Jones’ Noseriders)? The regular/BJ style has that ridge between the start of the concave and the tip. The other style keeps going and “carves out” the center of the tip. So what’s the performance difference, if any? Any theories? I heard a concave acts like when you’re body surfing and you put your head down, trapping air, thus holding you/your board’s nose up. Does it cancel out/weaken the effect if you remove that “ridge” between the very tip and the start of the 'cave? Or would carving out the tip actually let more air in? Or does the “air trap” work regardless? Obviously, I’ve tossed this around in my brain a bit. But I’m just about to carve one out, and I’m still deciding whether to blend it all the way past the tip or stop it just before. Any advice is definitely appreciated…

Okay…I still haven’t figured it out: What’s the difference between a > concave that blends into the very tip of the nose (like Hap Jacobs’ H-1), > and the regular concave that stops just a couple inches before the tip > (like on all Bruce Jones’ Noseriders)?>>> The regular/BJ style has that ridge between the start of the concave and > the tip. The other style keeps going and “carves out” the center > of the tip. So what’s the performance difference, if any? Any theories?>>> I heard a concave acts like when you’re body surfing and you put your head > down, trapping air, thus holding you/your board’s nose up. Does it cancel > out/weaken the effect if you remove that “ridge” between the > very tip and the start of the 'cave? Or would carving out the tip actually > let more air in? Or does the “air trap” work regardless? First, you can’t trap air. It’s infinitely compressible, 2700 cubic feet fit in a scuba tank. As soon as the board moves the air has run away, never to return. The concave directs water under the nose and creates a planing surface that is flater than the curves around it. The way the tip rail is shaped in can’t have any effect on it’s riding. The tips are usually out of water, even when your on the nose.>>> Obviously, I’ve tossed this around in my brain a bit. But I’m just about > to carve one out, and I’m still deciding whether to blend it all the way > past the tip or stop it just before. Any advice is definitely > appreciated…

First, you can’t trap air. It’s infinitely compressible, 2700 cubic feet > fit in a scuba tank. As soon as the board moves the air has run away, > never to return. The concave directs water under the nose and creates a > planing surface that is flater than the curves around it. The way the tip > rail is shaped in can’t have any effect on it’s riding. The tips are > usually out of water, even when your on the nose. I’ve noticed the Joel Tudor noseriders are just slight concave blended in with no ridge/edge, same with Kevin Connelley shapes, and my personal 10’ is the same and it noserides(hangten) unreal, but there are other hangtime factors, right Jim?

I’ve noticed the Joel Tudor noseriders are just slight concave blended in > with no ridge/edge, same with Kevin Connelley shapes, and my personal 10’ > is the same and it noserides(hangten) unreal, but there are other hangtime > factors, right Jim? Rocker and rails, none of the best noseriders are down railers, that retro/round rail gets wet all around it and creates more suction to the wave face. Combine that with lowered nose rocker and an increased tail rocker and you have the formula for a good nose rider. I put the blended concave on all of my boards, I was one of the first shapers to consistantly use this method rather than the dish/teardrop concave that is so popular. My personal belief on this is that the further back you run the concave the faster of a board that you have shaped. The best noserides are ALWAYS while going very slow, high speed nose rides are the ones that the fin pops out and sends you sideways down the wave.

Rocker and rails, none of the best noseriders are down railers, that > retro/round rail gets wet all around it and creates more suction to the > wave face. Combine that with lowered nose rocker and an increased tail > rocker and you have the formula for a good nose rider. … Thanks guys. Just shaped the concave last night and blended it in. Looks good–and makes sense–to me. 50/50 egg rails are in the works now. The real test comes later of course. Now, just one more question Jim: I decided to try shaping a little V in the tail (last 12") just for the heck of it. It looks good, but what is this going to do to noseride performance? Obviously, it brings the tail rocker down a bit, right? Should I flatten out the V or leave it be? Thanks again.

Thanks guys. Just shaped the concave last night and blended it in. Looks > good–and makes sense–to me. 50/50 egg rails are in the works now. The > real test comes later of course. Now, just one more question Jim: I > decided to try shaping a little V in the tail (last 12") just for the > heck of it. It looks good, but what is this going to do to noseride > performance? Obviously, it brings the tail rocker down a bit, right? > Should I flatten out the V or leave it be? Thanks again. I don’t bother with “V” on retro style of shapes, you already have a bottom with a good bit of roll in it. Where the tail rail makes the turn around corner and heads for the tail, I pinch this part off to thinner pointed rail. The rest of the rail has little edge for control, so I pinch this section. It lets you sink the last part of the tail, where the rocker is and slice a nice short turn up into the pocket. From there it a leap to the nose(God how I hate angle take-offs with a scoot to the nose)