I wanna head down to CR in June '05. This is my first trip there and wanted to stretch it out for a while. I’m trying to keep it relatively cheap, but have a good time, and make the most out of the vacation, not looking for top notch hotels/restaurants or anything. Wanted to check out the Jaco/Hermosa area, Mal Pais area, and possibly make it up to Tamarindo to surf Negra, possibly Ollies. Anyone who’s been here, could I stay around Hermosa and Mal Pais without a car rental for several days at a time (like a week in each location) and be able to walk to decent breaks (wouldn’t mind hoofing it a ways). My plan is to take a taxi/bus from San Jose into the Hermosa area and stay there for 5-7 days, then get a ride to Mal Pais for about the same amount of time, then make my way to back to Jaco to get a car and head up to Tamarindo. The car rental costs kill my budget quickly when we’re talking about staying for 2-3 weeks. Am I trying to do too much all in one trip? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
scratch the Tamarindo and go to Pavones instead. I don’t think Tamarindo is the place to go in the summer. I would check the swells and decide once you got down there though. You don’t need a car at Hermosa or Pavones, I havn’t spent much time around Mal Pais. Just wing it and talk to people once you get down there.
On a decent swell the place can handle a ton of surfers and if you know what is going on you will get your fair share. However, it is a long and miserable bus ride from Playa Hermosa and if you get there an there is no swell you are screwed.
2-3 weeks isn’t a long trip, IMHO you need to be able to move to get the waves… you need a car. I was in your same position and my bud and I decided to get a car. It opened up so many opportunities that we would not have otherwise had. A lot of the Ticos don’t have cars and are willing to point you in the direction of the good spots if you will only take them with you.
My girlfriend and I were in Mal Pais last spring for two weeks, and we had a great time. True, you’re mostly surfing beachbreaks, but the quality is good and the atmosphere can’t be beat. Plenty of places to eat and stay, lots of budget options, mellow town, and Frank’s Place (right at the ‘T’) can shuttle you to and from the aiport (for a $teep fee). Stone’s throw from the beach at Mal Pais, a bit of a walk to Santa Teresa if you don’t mind the heat. damn, it’s hot there. Interestingly, dawn patrols were almost empty–just us and a few other guys spread out over a big beach, nothing under head high the entire time we were there. Came back and almost hurled in the 49 degree waters of Bodega Bay. Damn, it’s cold here.
was in mal pais in august. they get their biggest swells in the summer. well overhead to way overhead every day. surfed punta barrigona off the turnoff to soda piedra mar on the biggest days. recommend santa teresa over the crossroads (playa el carman) for smaller days. the whole area from santa teresa, north of the crossroads to the fish camp (and reef/point break) at the south end is about 5k, along a rather rutted dirt road. the road goes way north to grecia, but i didn’t need to go any further than santa teresa. you can rent mountain bikes from david at la calvacade du surf in santa teresa, about 1.5 clicks north of the crossroads. that’ll solve any transportation needs you might have beyond walking. he also can put your broken board back into 1 piece, and rent you a board to ride while that’s being done. crowds were minimal the whole time i was there in august…8 - 11 out at the max. very safe area, also, i thought. reports are that the winter is more crowded, with smaller surf and constant offshores. lots of great places to eat. usually one of the clubs has a party going on at nite.
BUT. not a flashy, touristy, all the comforts of home, 5 star hotel around. i liked that.
Check out Cabinas las Olas on Playa Hermosa, cheap good food, consistant surf with a few good sandbars within a few blocks. Getting to Pavones would be a pain, great wave though, it can hold a crowd, and when I talked to some of the local expats around they said it rarley is under chest high that time of year. I’ve surfed more across the bay from Pavones and found it very consistant. Costa Rica is hard to really experience without a four wheel drive unfortunatly, there is so much surf, wildlife, cool people, sell your idea to some friends and share a rental if you can.
When staying in Mal Pais, where did you guys stay? I’m just looking for some real-life accounts of how everything was. I have Mike Parise’s book on surfing CR, but personal stories always make the info more applicable.
Also, the beach breaks around Mal Pais, were you satisfied with them? I’m certainly not the next Andy Irons, but would like some decent conditions since the drive out there will take a while.
This vacation is going to be and a buddy. It’s basically a present to myself, i’m going to be graduating college in May…that’s why I’m concerned about the budget. Whatever happens, the trip will be awesome. I can’t wait to ditch my wetsuit for some warm water (I surf on the central coast of cali). All this info is great!!!
we stayed at the mal pais surf camp. costs run from 10 us a nite in the open air dorm (which are really great for getting close to nature), to, i think about 40us for a 2 person room with communal shower/bath about 69us for a cabina which will sleep 5 with a private bath and about 89us for a villa, which is deluxe accommodations for that area (summer rates) they have a website. just go up on yahoo and dial in mal pais surf camp. wake up to the howler monkey’s barking every morning. fluorescent orange squirrels, big ass iguanas. surfexpress hooked us up with a great deal including 4 wheel drive, flew martinair (2 boards go free/must be under 10 feet). cheaper living can be found around the crossroads and north thru santa teresa. the surfcamp features a restaurant/bar, you can run a tab, great security, pablo is the manager/chef/security guy. every wednesday nite they host a party (til dawn) and people come from ALL around.
there is beach access everywhere, as the beach and the land adjacent to it is usually public property…although some if it is for sale? right across from the surf camp is a breachbreak which is rideable, though at size i preferred the point previously mentioned. santa teresa had great shape when the surf was down to a foot or two o-head on the sets… i didn’t like the break at the crossroads that much. what i was told , summer breaks bigger than winter. more rock (sharp lava rock) exposed in the summer. waves all the time in the summer (better verify this). we were there during a big south/southwest what they called wind swell tho it sure looked like a groundswell to me. rode the point for 4 days, then when the swell dropped under 7’ and switched direction slightly rode crossroads and santa teresa. it looks like they have a BIG swell window there, unlike boca barranca and from what someone lese here said…pavonnes.
go do it, you’ll have a great time. and the ladies…from all over the world! whew!
would i go back? for sure. i’d like to see pavones and metapalco(sp?) also on the next trip. then figure out how to purchase a piece of paradise.
Regarding Ollies, it is really suited best for longboarders. I have been there several times, and regardless of the size, it is a mellow, almond shaped wave, breaking maybe top to half way down the face. Might be a little frustrating on a 6’ thruster. Also, it is a time consuming and expensive to get to. You have the hassle of the boat trip, plus a 1 hour car ride from Tamarindo. If you are staying at Playa Negra, add another hour to the car ride. However, you also get the chance to surf Witchs Rock on the same boat ride. With a limited budget, you could skip the car and stay at Cabinas Las Olas at Playa Avellanes. Several different spots within walking distance. Drawback is no nightlife, closest is Tamarindo. Or stay at Witchs Rock Surf Camp in Tamarindo. Tamarido itself will probably not have much surf in June, but the camp can get you to numerous spots, including Ollies.
At Mal Pais, you can definitely get by without a car. There seems to be peaks up and down the beach all the way through Santa Teresa.
camped for 3 mths on the bch at mal pais. surf was great everyday. bring a fish and a 6’6 . main breaks in front of the mambo shack cantina(if still there) are called ‘ranchos’ the breaks down at santa T are hollower and less of a paddle out. the reef farther south in front of the hotel (5miles)?is awesome! needs a south swell bit of a walk but WTF.climb one of the trees there and look all the way down the coast.if you see white water then make the trip. surf camp is cool (was in 96) pool w/topless brazillian girls,pooltables,beer,cnn(remember i was there for a while) and georgina!!!nice ass
anyway good time no disappointments.was there from jan-june.the other 3 mths were traveling the outer countries on the way home.gets the same winter swells that hammer the north shore HI.
Would the Nosara/Guiones area be worth checking out in June? How difficult is it to get up that way from Mal Pais? I here during the “wet season” its impassable to drive up the peninsula along the coast. The other option is to drive all the way around and head inland, then cut over to Nosara… seems like lots of “window time” to get there