i know thats not even close to spelled right “crystylisation”…so i cant look in the archives…but if you can figure out what the word is maybe you can help…i have always used cheap craft acrylics,usually the main problem i have had is red bleeding when resin is used ,so i just avoid using red…also the paint comes off very easy ,like say if i paint the bottom then the next day put it bottom down on the racks, i can always see where the racks touched…and recent i think i have experienced the “crystilastaion” (damn i cant spell that)…on certain spots…im pretty sure it is around where the paint might have been thickest…
well i know what your thinking ,,the paint i use is not thinned with anything..it seems to spray just fine like it is......i have heard of thinning with future floor wax? is this the correct thing to do to avoid these problems?...i also recall someone saying they use liquitex paint...i have seen it in the store,,but it looks like it will deffinately need to be thinned...but with what? does liquitex sell a thinner ? or should i use floor wax...floor wax seems like a strange thing to be spraying on a blank...and if future floor wax is the way to go where can i find it.....
I have sprayed three boards on the foam with red acrylic spray and glassed them. I usually wait a few hours before glassing…once I left it a day. No problems. I use the 375 gram size spraycans of holts dupli colour acrylic car spray. Not sure what other countries equivalents would be.
Howzit have, First it’s spelled crystallization I think. If you can find Nova brand paint, it’s probably the best and it’s the one brand I’ve never had crystallize on me. As for the paint coming off the board, I cut 1 1/2" strips of foam insulation used for around window A/C units and put them on the reverse tape on the glassing racks. This keeps the paint from being pulled off by the tape adhesive and the board doesn’t move on the racks. If you can’t find the Nova paint then definitly use the acrylic thinner in your paint, it keeps the acrylic content high which should help prevent bleeding. One thing that causes bleeding is thinning with to much water which dilutes the acrylic . Aloha,Kokua
Have, I’m one of the guys who uses Liquitex (I know it’s not the only good brand, but it is high quality and it has worked really well for me). Thinning with Future Floor Finish works, as well as acrylic thinner. The Future is not a wax, but an acrylic product. I would stay away from the Liquitex Basics paints. They are cheaper, but don’t have as much pigment as the better quality line of their paints. The Basics colors can change hue when you spray them on foam. Doug
chrystalization,crystalization, cripplization,kristalyzatune,kalialisatone, kalakasakone,christ-a-station,cardioasation,cleptoasaltation,chemodesalination, concentratiomorphous, kellydeforestation,… crystallization… the two L’s date back to the greek it seems and the latin as well up to Old English …the double L got lost in the middle english for singularities but maintains it’s presence in conjugations…Hail Athens source of our common Knowledge…krystallos…,<kryos see crude…indo european base*kreu-congealed(blood),whence greek kryos frost & kreas,flesh alas Kryos meaning frost is the root of this confusion …and how fitting that the color red led to this revelation of roots of understanding that middle english allowed us to stray from accurate communication through the wish to simplify the written language …ambrose…<> say shun
Some colors (red for instance) crystallize more than others. It has happened to me mostly along the stringer - maybe that’s why shop boards are almost invariably clear aloong the stringer.
I like the idea of using acrylic thinner though I don’t know if this will solve the problem. I did a board once and waited several days for the paint to dry, still got the problem.
I would rather use tinted or pigmented lam if it’s the whole lam you want to color.
Ah yes, crystalization, the unknown nuisance! We’ve dealt with it quite bit over the years. I remember brewer switching to opaque red to give his japanese dealers that bitchen red to match his fins! Couple things we’ve learned: High humidity makes it worse. Heavy coats makes it way worse. The airbrusher at moonlight (Peter St. Pierre) hardly ever gets it, if ever. Can’t remember seeing one actually. His trick? Thin, multiple coats, hair dryer between coats. If you load it up, you seal off the pores in the foam. Wet paint gets trapped in the pores, and never really dries. When the resin hits it, Due to the solvents in resin, it penetrates right through, and starts moving around the wet paint trapped underneath. High humidity intensifies the problem(hawaii). Thin coat, dry a little, get lunch, another thin coat, dry a little, glass tomorrow…
The cheap acrylics (.99) that come in the plastic bottles at the craft stores can be a problem reacting with poly resins. I’ve had the white (and any mixture with white in it) turn green as soon as resin hit it. I haven’t had any discoloration problems with the darker colors (incl. red, orange) though. I currently use LiquidTex white in the tubes thinned with Future and haven’t had any discoloration or bleeding problems even when mixed with the cheapo acrylic colors. I only do painting on hotcoats for repairs, so I don’t encounter crystallization problems when painting on foam. Small repaired areas are probably OK with the cheap acrylics, but I wouldn’t do any large areas.
aw fudge .all the spray tecno opens doors for washing orafices and confounding stuff that makes molehills into rocky mountains the ol pigment jar and a reused chopstick comes out red! add catalyst and on the foam whoopie and no double up color on the lap w/ the lam coat… apply with squeegee like finishing cement and strength inductee into the hall of strength and strength…glass clear and patching made easy as the clear replaced often leaves the color intact…simplify…ambrose…KISS
uhh ok thanks…i think,i ran into yet another problem yesterday and now a step that should have taken an hour or so is going to days most likely…so i think next time ill use better paint…i have heard alot about nova,except forgot to pay attention on where to get it…i can look online i guess but i prefer going to a strore…anybody know what type of store sells it? nevermind i just looked on the web site and they have all the answers…if i cant find it locally i guess ill order some it would be worth it …now i gotta go try and fix my newest screw up.
They’re in California. Free color chart and catalogue if you call. I’ve been playing with some of their stuff. Haven’t glassed over it yet, but it seems like a much better product than the cheapie paints I’ve used before. Good luck.