Here is something I want to share since I’ve seen only two post in the forums:
I was surprised by the amount of board builders that don’t realize the benefits of using a milled curved tooth genuine vixen file. This was shown to me by Charlie Wong who ran the factory for Naish Hawaii (Sailboards). This one of the best tools I have ever used for filing lap lines and fiberglass repairs. The files cost around $32 at Fiberglass Hawaii. I purchased them as low as $10 on EBAY. I gave away a few to my other board maker friends that now swear by it. If you do purchase one, make sure it is milled curved tooth genuine vixen file. I use the 8 - 12 teeth per inch files.
I am not here to say that it is better than a surform or sandpaper, all I am saying is just try it. This is my main tool for smoothing down lap lines.
Aloha! Me too! I’ve been using them for years. I used to watch my friend use one years ago, and it looked so dangerous to me that I waited for a while to get one. It completely replaced the old style surform blade. To clean it, I would give it an acetone bath, and scrub it with a cut-off 1" brush. With R.R., you never even have to clean it. For sure a great tool, I use it for everything. Aloha…RH
I am not to sure how well these pictures will come out, but here goes. I say your on-line video and you look really calm laminating that board… Manoa and I laminated his 13’4" x 48" fishing board this past weekend and we were racing to get the epoxy on before it went off. He bought a bunch of cheap 4" brushes and my handle broken off in the middle of the lam job. I resorted to the good old yellow plastic Bondo spreader instead. The glass job came out pretty well. It was funny to watch.
I gave Manoa a vixen file and he was stoke on how fast and clean it cuts. The key is to take short circular flat strokes. Cover the file when not in use and never use acetone to clean it. I just use a pin or nail to clear in between the teeth. I love these files and there is one on EBAY now. I told the seller to post his files on Swaylocks.
Yes I was incredibly calm, mind you it’s only a 5’6" board, not a boat like yours, I came out an hour after the vid was shot and finished lamming the laps.
Thanks for the piccies, now I know what you’re talking about. I’m gonna get one, I’ve used one before but only with wood, does it have a rounded side and a flat side?
I “discovered” those files back in 1969, when I had Surf Systems. They are the definitive tool for rail prep prior to wet sand and polish. A very precise tool to use.
A good way to take care of those is to break them into, say, 4" pieces. You can keep them clean by leaving them soaking in acetone. When the piece your working with gums up with resin, you pull out the clean piece and keep filing. Of course, if you’re using epoxy, the resin gum-up isn’t an issue.
They are also referred to as body files in Aus. Used a lot in auto repeair, and for the same thing I’m sure would be cheaper than the glorified and expensive snow tool version.
Mahalo (thank you) UncleD “Dennis” for the vixen file!
Hey guys/gals… I’m not a professional shaper/glasser…but the vixen file is da bomb. Just imagine cleaning laps on a 13’6" x 4’ board? yah…imagine that.
As a newbie…I will never use anything other than a vixen file for cleaning my laps.
note: I have almost all types of files/sanders/equipment used for laps…nothing like the vixen.
I like it better than the microplane replacement blades for the initial cutting. I never used the microplane drum sander. The file does look intimidating at first but it does bring the high spots and thick glass down fast. I instantly fell in love with it once I tried it.
Cutting the lap is like shaping. When shaping, you got to know when to use the planer, surform and the block sander. This can be used with other tools like surforms and sanders. In most cases I’ve experienced, this is the only tool I need. Sometimes I use the other tools. I would not use it for epoxy drips on EPS foam but I would use it cut down any of the harden thick glass. A sharp file will shave and not plow and tear.
I just want to expose board builder to one more tool to make their efforts more effective and efficient. Again keep the blade flat and keep the strokes short. Just try it.
I noticed that some of the users will clean their files with acetone. I had one file that rusted quickly after I soaked it in acetone. I think that file had a protective coating on it and the acetone washed away. I also live in an area to is subject to on-shore trade winds and salt air. Things rust quickly at my place.
thanks I’ve got some laps to do so I’ll see if I can pick one up before the weekend.
been using a B&D mouse with 50 grit paper and a surefoam to do the laps. Just recently switched to the microplane baldes and was impressed how smoothly it cuts. FH carries them both.
I thought the 2" Microplane drum on a drill would zap the laps liek those airtool discs but maybe not as evenly an smooth as this rasp blade…
When I first saw those blades I was thinking that you could use them to shape your eps if they were mounted on 2x4x24 plank. You’d use this versus buying one of those Pleskunas grit sanding boards I have. I was never sure they’d work and I’d also have to cut and epoxy them as 4" pieces onto the wood plank. need a bunch too.
Might be a dumb question, but… these look a lot like an auto body file I saw once, years ago when I was turning wrenches for a living. Though that had the usual rat-tail tang on it… was used for taking down bondo and lead/tin body filler.
For what it’s worth, they make a holder for it so you can use it something like a plane, though it prolly wouldn’t be a big deal to make one yourself- see http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1624&itemType=PRODUCT&iProductID=1624 - I’d think something like plain hardwood or maybe plywood laminated to a little less than the width of the beastie would be the ticket- are those holes bevelled such that a flat head screw could go in to hold it without sticking up above the teeth?
You are correct. They were used for auto body work and metal work. I am not sure if those are the genuine ones or not. The old timer body guys use to use this to shape lead fills, metal and plastic fillers (Bondo). A handle is not really required for surfboard work because you want to use a light touch on the high spots allowing the shape teeth to shave it down. It does flex a bit. Use light, short strokes. Like I said earlier, just try it.
I had one when I did paint and body work for a living. Wood handle and all. Gave it to my brother when I got out of the auto business. Maybe he’ll give it back now that I have a new use for it.
I have one of those that I inherited from my grandfather around somewhere. My dad’s father, and my dad is now 89. That thing has to be at least 80 years old. I’m going to dig it out and try it on my next board. Thanks Uncle D. Never thought about using it for laps.
I put a microplane blade in a Surform. It worked great for the laps. No dust to worry about for the hotcoat. But I left it in to hit the tape line made during hotcoating (which I usually take down with a Surform & a very light touch). The little plane blades made little stripes & grooves in my hotcoat. Grabs too strong on a smooth surface!
Great for laps, not so good for tape lines…
I’m intrigued by the vixen file. Looks like a winner.
Howzit UncleD, I've got one that I don't put in acetone and it even gets rust but not much,but as you are well aware of, what metal won't rust in the tropics. I will say that when I lived on Oahu metal didn't rust as bad as here on Kauai. As for any protsctive covering I'm sure it gets taken off as you use the file. I use 50 grit paper and a special block for taking down rail laps. Aloha,Kokua
Howzit Keith, One of them is slightly curved for doing the rocker on the deck and another is wide for the other parts of the rail. No real big thing but I like the way they take down the laps really fast and easy. I like my laps to blend right into the foam for the strongest bond when laminating the deck, it's such an important part of a good lamination. Aloha,Kokua
