Well today I was whatching the Tahara Pro in Japan and all I can say is that the waves were side shore slop but the boy’s were killing it. I went for a surf near by with the new board that I just got and my board didn’t ride even close to how the pro’s were surfing.My question is how much difference is there between a custom made shape and a Pro’s shape is there a big difference? Or are the Pro’s boards just designed to there style and ability? I’m very interested. I was trying to figure out how these Pro’s boards just fly on these small no powered waves. I’m guessing it’s the rocker. Any info would be cool.
well the obivious answer is that their pros but you also have to take into consideration they get 50+ boards a year. If you got that many you can bet a few of them will work pretty well. Will you surf like them…hell no but ill bet you will have better boards than your riding now.
For me, the best i have done in my “surfing life” is to find a shaper that suits my style and understands what i want and work with him for a long time.
Most of the pros have this same situation, but they are in the water in one month as many ours as i’m in one year, and they ride the same (or more) number of boards in a month that i do in an entire year.
So the thing is: 1st, they’re pros, 2nd they test a lot of boards, and their shapers try to improve because they are the test riders, and 3rd if you don’t have their ability, their boards don’t suit your surfing.
Being honest with yourself and trying to fins the perfect tool for your surfing will be way more pleasant than trying to do your best on a pro surfboard.
a good buddy of mine rides for john carper, and pro boards are disposable. no one in their right mind would glass a board 2oz. top and 2oz. bottom, but that’s how they do it. that board doesn’t last more than 2 weeks, but when they snap it they just go get another.
Well everyone I’ll tell you a little about myself. I grew up surfing in Hawaii. I was just a little kid with the dream of becoming Pro. I did the NSA and the HASA I’ve surfed against Kalani Robb, Chad Delgado, Shawn Sutton, Bryan Pacheco and more just to name a few. I’ve also beat a few of the big name guys. All in the amateurs of coarse. The truth is that I never understood the mechanics of the surfboard but, if you really think about it how many surfers really do. We order from a shaper who’s board we like in hopes for that magic board. Yes being Pro is important in the maneurvering of the board but, don’t you think there are people who don’t surf contest who rip harder than anyone you have ever seen. Well I do and if your in Hawaii and at the right place at the right time you may just run into a few. I just have begun to realize the Important facts about surfboard design thanks to Swaylocks. I need more detail about characteristics of these types of boards. I know top shapers keep these designs on the down low but, I’m not looking for their secrets just a little direction and I’ll figure the rest out on my own.
Just my $.02, but I think if you were to paddle out next to one of those guys and swap boards, without any discussion of ability, you’d soon find these differences:
Rocker - you’re right, in small waves, competition boards are almost totally flat, with maybe a little kick in the tail, depending on the guy’s preference.
Thickness - half an inch less than you’d assume. But keep in mind, most pros run about 150 lb soaking wet.
Weight - 8-12 lb for a longboard, 4-6 for a shortboard. As said above, durablility is not a concern.
Rails - you can get a ‘sinker’ board to float higher with hard down or tucked-under rails than you can with softer ones. The compromise is that it will be overly ‘skatey’ - but these guys can handle that.
Fins - basically, just look for the fins to be 1/2 to 1" smaller than yours all around. What they lose in drive, they make up for with body english & wave choice, and the turning response it gives them is more than worth it.