I’ve been reading through the archives but haven’t quite found an answer to this… though it may be pretty simple.
Ok so I know that if I’m doing a resin tint on the bottom I want to do a cut lap onto the deck (or rail) to keep my tint line straight. Now where I’m having trouble is trying to figure out what to do with my deck glass. I understand that cut laps are easier to clean and give a better look… but if I do a clear deck will the glass/lam darken the resin tint on the bottom glass where it overlaps? If so how do you deal with that? If the clear doesn’t affect the underlying tint then I guess there’s nothing to worry about… right?
Also if I’m doing cut laps on deck and bottom and lamming clear, what’s the norm for how much to overlap the deck and bottom?
Gearing up for board #1… so I’ll likely stick to clear all the way around but just curious, as I’m already planning #2…
Doing the deck clear should not change the color of the bottom lam. Pay attention whilst doing the second lam at the cut line from the first. This causes bubbling for a lot of first-timers. Tip: we physically mash the first lap edge into the foam using a mixing stick. The art/skill of doing this is to make your mashing real even. I suppose you can just work really slow and carefully deflect the lap line until it runs just flush with the deck foam. Try not to damage the adjacent deck foam!
Lap size probably should have a minimum size of about an inch. Maximum size can go as much as 4"!!! See Cooperfish’s “big honkin’ laps” and you’ll see what I mean. Basically, it becomes an aesthetic issue. Also constant width all-way-round or a sexy taper to the nose and tail… Again, up to you. Good Luck. HTH…
Thanks +1. Much appreciated and it helps clear things up a bit. Glad you mentioned the mashing of the first lap as I was just researching that very thing and reading all about grinding them down, etc. I like the idea of mashing it into the foam better since it’ll leave a smoother transition I think. Just gotta be careful to keep things even…
Unless you are using volan or s-glass, and your resin is clear, I think you can just freelap it…If it’s reasonably clear, the line will be very hard to see…
I think lap lengths are up to you and the look you want to achieve, but the two should at least overlap the rail… longer laps=stronger, shorter laps=lighter.
wells
(edit: looks like I got’er in there late, thanks +1…)
PlusOneShaper’s idea about mashing down the laps sounds really good to me.I have never done it myself but I’m going to try it.Another way to make things easier is to take a small brush and paint a layer of clear lam over the cut line and let it dry.This will fill the small ridge left by the cutline.It only works if you are doing a clear deck.When glassing the deck I assume you are using two layers.Lay down the first layer and trim it flush to the center of the rail.On the second layer let it hang for the overlap.The color change will be invisible so freelapping is fine.You can save some time hotcoating by not taping the deck and let the resin run on down…take your brush and paint resin up under the rail to cover the laps.When the board cures flip it over and sand down the lap bumps.Lastly you tape off the board and hotcoat the bottom.This is all in the archives but I posted it anyway.I sometimes have trouble with archive searches myself.Have fun. RB
Howzit Mr.Clean, I've mashed a few laps in my time but because I was lazy at the time. I use a small plastic roller that I think was designed for drywall work. I still prefer sanding the lap.Aloha,Kokua
Thanks Cleanlines and Kokua. Helpful tips. I’m stoked… out of work early today and off to Mitch’s to pick up my blank + supplies… gotta get some use out of the long weekend!
Howzit S.A., I think we might have the same roller,it's plastic with a white roller about 1 1/2" wide with a black plastic handle, but I don't use it that much and the resin is not tacky when I do so it doesn't get gunky, By the way what does +G.G.mean. Years ago Larry Strada (shaper)and Bobby Allen (glasser) named their boards S.A. for Strada/Allen .Aloha,Kokua
THAT’S the tool! Been so away from color work (and a bit lazy) to go get one of those rollers. I’ve been mashing with a tongue depressor! Ha! Been getting pretty good with the stick, I do passes with it like a marking scribe. You don’t want to mash right at the cutline only; actually about 1/4" away as well… …oh yeah, I remember having that wheel “run off the tracks” and put da kine groove on my fresh deck foam coz… Thanks Kokua and Shawn. PS. Kokua, I think Shawn Ambrose is referring to my initials… (not some secret code or anything; I hope…)
I found a different roller that works great. It’s a dough roller used by pastry chefs that’s double ended and is made of cast metal and wood. One end has a flat 4" roller and the other is a 3" oval. You can put a lot of pressure on this thing, and I also use it for putting down deck and tail traction pads. On lap lines, I use the oval end and put a piece of wax paper down and roll over that. You can find these at Smart & Final (cooking utensil section) or at resturant supply places.
The roller thing sounds cool.Most pro glassers just buzz the mess down with a cheap air angle grinder with a 3" rollock disc.One good trick for sanding the laps is to make a curved (convex) sanding block and glue on the paper with contact cement.The curve lets you sand a minimul area without gouging the foam.I glue on the white colored 40 grit that I use for shaping.I tend to think the biggest problem beginners have is trying to sand too much.All you need to do is get the big snags and bumps down.By the time the board is hotcoated and sanded it all blend in. RB
Lapping clear then you will not have to worry about the color darkening on teh bottom. BUT if you are using Volan glass then yes it will darken and if you do not cutlap it will look like shit where the glass overlapps onto the bottom.