cutting glass around nose and hot coat

I’m in the middle of glassing my second board and have had problems cutting the cloth correctly to follow the profile of the nose and tail when I’m laminating. The board is egg shaped. I have the JC glassing video but it seems to gloss over this part. Is there a fool proof way of cutting the cloth to fit the nose and tail? I always end up with lumps, dry spots in these areas which I then have to sand down flat, this ultimately cuts into the weave and reduces the strength of the board in these areas.

Another thing. I brushed on the hotcoat on the deck with a brush which had a little acetone left in it. It has gone off ok but there are a few bubbles and bumps. I’m going to sand it back to see where the low points are then put another resin coat on using a squeege to fill in the holes, will this work and is it the best method?

BTW I’m using epoxy resin

The board is a wedding present for a mate so I want to get it right.


Some guys say you can manipulate the glass just before the nose so you don’t have to make any cuts!

I didn’t make any funboards, or wide nosed boards, but used multi cuts for ease of layin up the laps.

A hotcoat is used just to seal the lam coat. If it does that, you’re good to go. If not, you can spackle by hand or squeegee, filling lam coat pinbubbles. If you glass job is good and sealed, you don’t need to go there.

Howzit Lee, I’m one of those guys. But you have to make 1 cut at thr nose and 1 or 2 at the tail depending if it’s a pin (! cut) or Square tail (2 cuts ) And if it’s a diamond tail it’s 3 cuts. But the trick is how you wrap those areas with the squeegee. I think it’s 1 trick that would be very hard to explain but would not be to hard to demonstrate. Another good reason wanna be glassers need to spend time with a experienced glasser. Aloha, Kokua

Hey kokua,

I’m in trouble…maybe you can help me…

I glassed the bottom of a shortboard yesterday with 4oz… the board is painted throughout with plain color waterbased latex acrylic paint… I glassed it as usual, with a 25 minute geltime silmar resin mix…checked for air bubbles and no sign of them…

This morning I went to the glassin room and there were air bubbles all along the rail and some on bottom…mainly along the stringer and below the ricepaper logo… I don’t know what to do, and the worst is that this is a custom surfboard for a client…first time this happens to me…I have no idea what to do…any suggestions???

I tried spreading really thin resin to see if there were some open pores and fill the bubbles…but didn’t worked…

The paint was really dry…let it dry for 2 weeks…

I’m kind of desperate…

Thanks a lot…

A wide round nose typically found on a tanker will take a cut at the stringer, and another about six to eight inches back from the tip, on both sides (3 cuts total).

When you wet it out, try not to distort the glass too much.

When you wrap the lap, start in the middle of the cut section and wrap it in, then work out toward each cut.

Lighter weight glass is easier to wrap; I usually use 6 ounce which by today’s standards is starting to look heavy.

As to when you need a cut, if you can’t wrap the cut, dry cloth well by hand, then another cut is probably needed. All corners need a cut. Know also that the cloth will conform better once it’s wet. If you think of it, you can cut a small extra bit of cloth and put it over the cut location so you know there will be complete coverage.

Some cuts are just cuts in a direction radial to the curvature at that point. On corners, though, such as the tip of the nose or tail, I generally cut out a wedge so that the glass won’t wrap farther than it needs to. There should be overlap of each side of the cut onto the other, though. After you do one lam and before the next, you surform down the high spots on the lap, and you’re good to go.

Howzit Cabeto, A 25 minute gel time sounds like your batch was a little slow kicking off. Did you glass it in the evening or when it was cold. A slow kick also makes a slower cure and gravity may have made the resin drain into the foam, which would leave you with some air bubbles. But the air in the rails is a little odd but could be the same reason as the bottom. I don't think the paint had any thing to do with your problem and acually it should have helped in keeping the resin from draining. I think the air under the logo is another indication that this might have been the problem, since it's obvious the resin under it drained into the foam. This is a situation where UV resin would have prevented your problem. Be truthful with the customer and tell him you don't know why it happened and you are researching the problem to find the answer, offer him a discount and let him know that at least the board won't suck up water since the air bubbles are trpped under the resin it wouldn't even absorb any more resin. If you continue to use catalyzed resin then you need to shorten the gel time to at least 15 mins. but if you can get it down to about 10 to 12 mins you'll have better results. Aloha, Kokua

Thanks kokua… I glassed it at 10am warm day…

I will make a hotter resin mix for glassing the deck …

For the bottom I mixed 4cc Mek to aprox 1 quart resin, how much extra catalyst do you think I can add ??


Howzit Cabeto, Not enough catalyst, For a quart I use about 12 or 14 cc’s but you might be better off at about 10 cc’s or maybe 8 cc’s if you’re slow at laminating. Also your climate has a big effect on the chemical reaction of the resin and catalyst. Glassers are also chemists and artists at the same time. By the way just how many boards have you glassed? Aloha, Kokua

I’ve shaped, glassed and sanded 201 surfboards… I make surfboards as a hobby for friends, myself and a few clients…

I’m planning to shape more… usually I make 2 to 3 surfboards monthly but planning to make at least 10 monthly…

I will add 8cc Mek to see how it works… will try to glass it faster…

Thanks a lot kokua!

Howzit Cabeto, When you’re laminating a board are you still thinking about the resin kicking off to soon. Once you get to the point where you’re not thinking about that your mind will be able to concentrate more on the quality of your work. When I’m using catalyst and my eyes start to burn a little that means the resin is starting to kick and I’ve got about 2 mins to finish up. After doing 200 boards you should be getting comfortable with the process. The speed will come with time. My mentor could lam a side in under 4 mins which has always impressed me, the closest I can get is about 7mins. Aloha, Kokua

alright this might sound kind of stupid but all help is greatly appreciated. After each lamination do you do a hotcoat?

Hotcoat AFTER laminating top and bottom