I’ll need digital proof after you cut the perimeter stringer. Then I’ll buy. You know, though, I should add something about cutting on my other post about perimeter stringers. Wobbly saw cuts can be a problem. Are you using a jig saw?
I’ll probably be sending off a DXF file for my stringers to get them CNC cut. I’ll certainly post some pics when I finally get around to it, then you could probably copy the technique if you liked it.
Yeah, let us see some pics. I had not thought of CNC cutting.
What I should have added in my other post was that the hand saw or jig saw cut on the bottom (top surface as you cut) is dead on. But you really have to be careful that you don’t inadvertantly push the saw to the side as you round the curves. Otherwise the blade will bend out or in and the deck cut will appear to wobble. Even a little (1/16) is an eyesore. Takes a little practice. Actually, jig saws are the worst for that.
But that all goes away if you CNC. There is just not a CNC anywhere around for me. So hand saw it is.
Like I said, Drew has it down. That hotwire device he made is the way to go by hand. I made one a while back and posted the pic’s, but it needs a second generation.
Drew, here is a thought. Cut three pairs of sticks say 1x1 about 10 inches longer than the board is wide. Cut your stringer material exact. No over cutting for adjustment. Cut and glue all the pieces as normal, but before clamping, attach a pair of the sticks cross wise at the middle of the board top and bottom and use rubber bands to bind the ends together. Do the same near the nose and tail. This will ensure that the rocker is true to the stringer cut. Then clamp width wise as ususal.
You could probably do this single handed.
BTW, what are you using for glue. I don’t like gorilla glue at all for this. Talk about a creeping evil. Brown expanding mess.
Hey Greg. I’m using Elmer’s Ultimate. Pretty much the same thing, just a little cheaper. I like the foaming glue. I never have any gaps. The way we do it the rockers always come out true. I think one trick is to use the heavy Jorgensen Cabinet master clamps in the center and lighter clamps on the nose and tail. Plus, I have that Shapers Australia manual profiler, so it’s pretty nice for getting true foils if the blanks just a hair off anywhere.
PS GO GABE!!!
I don’t recall seeing the brown glue color on your boards when I visited. Am I wrong? Again?
BTW, I am building version 2 of my hotwire stinger cutter. I know you kinda hide yours, so I won’t ask questions. Ha.
You gotta get just the right glue amount to not have the brown doo doo seepage. I showed you the hotwire cutter right? I got the ideas from Doug Wright’s old one and mine just “clicked”. If you need help just PM me. I’m over showing it off on here for sure, but I’ll help anybody that needs it.