What is the last tool YOU use on the stinger, (sandpaper excluded)? Also, at what step in the shaping process do YOU cut in the nose concave? Please don’t refer me to the archives, I’m highly allergic to old and dusty postings.
What is the last tool YOU use on the stinger, (sandpaper excluded)? Also, > at what step in the shaping process do YOU cut in the nose concave? I use a blockplane, and after that I use a baby block plane (finger plane). Then I do final finishing of the stringer with the sanding wheel on my Dremel, although it really only works from the tip and back about 6 inches (the angle gets too steep and starts cutting too deep the farther you go from the tip). You could also use a spokeshave. I carve the concave after skinning the bottom, and getting it close to my desired thickness. So it’s basically the first thing I do to the board after cutting the outline and skinning. Hope this helps…deeb…
FYI, it REALLY helps to lightly pencil an outline for your concave, then tape that line off. It’s easy to get your perspective screwed up without this line to follow, and the tape helps keep things even and prevents your handiwork from spreading out beyond the line.
FYI, it REALLY helps to lightly pencil an outline for your concave, then > tape that line off. It’s easy to get your perspective screwed up without > this line to follow, and the tape helps keep things even and prevents your > handiwork from spreading out beyond the line…A crappy little “SHARP” hobby plane!(my friend sold the copied design of a mini block plane to a small co.)You can buy one Now at Home Depot,or I still have…3 er 4 …prototypes left.(about $7-8.00 each).Herb.
everything above works good. the little dark blue planes at home depot are “smoothing planes” with a high blade angle. they don’t slice as much, they kind of grind it down. at the end sometimes i tape off on both sides of the stringer(s) with stranded packaging tape then use a shortened little blue plane. it rides on the tape. a 2"right angle die grinder with fine grit can also be used with a stringer tapeoff (it takes a while to get this method down, don’t slip). http://www.cooperfishsurfboards.com
everything above works good. the little dark blue planes at home depot are > “smoothing planes” with a high blade angle. they don’t slice as > much, they kind of grind it down. at the end sometimes i tape off on both > sides of the stringer(s) with stranded packaging tape then use a shortened > little blue plane. it rides on the tape. a 2"right angle die grinder > with fine grit can also be used with a stringer tapeoff (it takes a while > to get this method down, don’t slip). Get the three piece miniature spoke shave set from Lee Valley woodworking. www.leevalley.com They’re worth having for the cool brass bodies alone. One has a flat bottom and the other two have curved bottoms of different radius. Keep them sharp and they work well for all concave applications.
When hitting stringers for the last time the number one important thing is to have a super sharp block plane. In the concave area a small plane works best. I found these stiff sponge blocks with abrasive coating on them at Ace hardware. These are good for finish sanding along the stringer in the concave because they bend to the foam. They wont dent the foam closer to the rail like a sanding block will. http://wegenersurfboards.com
When hitting stringers for the last time the number one important thing is > to have a super sharp block plane. In the concave area a small plane works > best. I found these stiff sponge blocks with abrasive coating on them at > Ace hardware. These are good for finish sanding along the stringer in the > concave because they bend to the foam. They wont dent the foam closer to > the rail like a sanding block will. Jon are you… or are you related to Tom Wegner AKA the joker. JC
Jon are you… or are you related to Tom Wegner AKA the joker. > JC Yes I am the brother,living in CA http://wegenersurfboards.com