dark colors

this is just more of a statement…yeah dark colors do cause a problem…more work…i thought most boards in the shop are pretty light color if not white, so i thought id make a cool dark green and black board…well its cool alright but its alot of work for me anyway…gotta watch my glassing way more and sanding …damn watch those scratches…those will never come out…maybe the next will be white with white pinlines…haha, no not really. ahh forget it,

Yeah, I’ve been saying that since I logged in, about 6 months ago.

But the challenge is always there, and challenges are made to be met…head on!

A problem that dark colors go along with is, that the wax tend to melt much faster. Dark colors absorb to much heat. Probably it´will cause a delamination in the long run.

cheers clemens

I have made boards with black rails and black tower block designs silouetted over sunsets underneath, you need to be very careful with the glassing, I wet out the rail cloth by folding it onto the deck then lay it over the rails. This way I have got away with navy blue, british racing green and black with excellent results. keep the decks light because of the wax problem.

Cheers Gazro.

yeah part of my problem is how can i ever get thes hotcoat scratches out? it looks really cool when its wet so id like to have it polished…but i dont think ill ever get the scratches out…and they really show with the dark color…any way havent i heard something like using some kind of clear coat or something? this could fill in those scratches and make it shine ,i guess …any body know?

have- Dark colors on a board are a pain in the ass, mostly because you have to worry about how much the board is exposed to the sun. No prolonged trips with it strapped to the roofracks in the blazing sun, no leaving it laying on the beach all day, locked in your car, etc. I have seen many dark colored boards delaminate, some very badly. As for you question about removing the scratches in your hotcoat- Start off with finer grits, (not 60,more like 150) and work up to 800 or so, then polish it. if you are really careful with prepping your lamination, and make sure to grind your laps, your hotcoat shouldn’t have many burn-throughs. (weave showing) You can make a hotcot look like a gloss-polish if you spend the time. One of my close friends is a master sander and even his shortboards look polished every time… Now if only I could get him to work more! :slight_smile: -Carl

yeah i know being a good sander helps ,but thats my hardest part i hate the whole sanding thing,just looking at a nearly finished board thats not quite there …i just hate sanding…but anyway i know somebody knows about spraying something to get that polished look without polishing, and being a half assd sander.

could you rough it up with say 220 and then spray an acrylic water based sealer on it right out of the can? don’t know how long it would hold up?

Most of the 120 odd boards I’ve glassed were only hotcoated.

I’d shape in a beveled rail, accounting for the double lap.

I’d prep the lam coat after it cured, to almost smooth perfection, usually glassing the deck first, then the bottom, then surforming the rail line on the deck.

All boards were cutlaps, and any fuzz was removed before curing.

Of course, I prolly sanded 30 odd boards, all by hand, starting with 50 grit working to 120…at the beach. Makes for strong shoulder muscles!

Yes, most of my hotcoat only boards showed the weave slightly, but they were all fast and glided well, and sealed, so I didn’t pursue the matter farther.

Your talking about the hot coat? Yes you can polish a hot coat out to where it’s absolutely as shiny as Shiny can be, but why dont you gloss? Sand the crap out of the board till it’s perfectly flat with 60 grit, hopefully your lamination isn’t all bumpy so you don’t have a ton of sand throughs. Then gloss it. gloss will fill the 60 grit scratches, and cloth weave hits. Make sure you strain the gloss, run tape over the deck of the board, get a really clean good natural fiber 4" brush. Sweep the floor, close the door, wear a mask…gloss. Brush it on, side ways once, tip out twice. Walk away. Clean brush, pull tape, flip do other side…when your all done all you should need to do is hit the zits with 400 grit dry sand, wet sand 600 grit. Polish out with 3M Perfect it polishing compound. Doing this, you will not have any scratches, swirls, or whatever, ever

Dark colors are fine, less catalyst more work time. Problems arise when you don’t let the resin saturate the cloth fully, and you get all those tiny pinholes because you either worked too fast (dry spots), or you pulled too much resin out of the cloth (pinholes). Just pull the resin around, saturate the cloth fully, then start laminating it down with even pressure, and pull the excess resin off. Start in the middle and work to the rails so you get even coloration.

One more thing before i get off my soap box. If you want a shiny board and don’t want to gloss. Go get a can of UPOL #1 at your local auto paint shop. Clear, shiny, toxic, tough, dries hard in 20 min. Polishes out like resin…light weight too, and a good desert toping with Rocky Road.

-Jay

well i tried finding that UPOL #1 stuff ,they had UPOL brand spray cans of stuff but none were clear coat…just other usless stuff for me at this time…ill call around tommorow and see who else could have it…is there anything else i could use? ive got a friend who paints some cars , he says he has some other brand of clear coat stuff that you mix with some sort of hardner 1:1 and spray on,sounds easy enough and like it could work ,any idea? he says its whats on your car…any body tried stuff like that?

Hey Have,

It sounds like your friends stuff would work just fine…and it sounds like he has a set up to paint it on baby smooth. Or you can just gloss polish the beast, it’s not that hard. You just got to be extra clean when you apply the gloss.

-Jay