No Doubt.
Simple black and white shouldn’t be a problem. Colors are problematic with UV. But---- If you mix an ounce or two of catylized resin and put your lam/logo down with that and then procede with your lamination --No Problema. Lowel
Decals and logos for a backyarder such as myself should be of the least importance. Imho.
It`s probably wise to keep them simple and understated.
Personally, from strictly a structural laminating point of view, I wouldn`t put rice paper between the bond of foam and glass or even between glass layers.
Probably matters very little, but I don`t like foreign (bubble magnets) objects imbedded in the lam… Some people only like certain brands of masking tape… We each have our idiosyncrasies…lol…
I`d install them as if I was doing tinted lams and install them high up in the lam structure, under a hotcoat or better yet under a sprayed on Polyurathane clear coat.
I use water activated slide decal applied after the board is completed and ready for gloss coating with either Resin X H2O or other cheaper water based polyurethane gloss coats…Not gospel, just my idea of fun…
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decal
VH.
What’s the best way to place a rice paper logo if you’re doing a pigment on the deck? Do an extra patch after the laminate is done just for the logo? Or could you set it under the got coat?
Hey Woodpool. I really see three options to put a logo over a tint or pigment. I have been doing option #1 with all of my boards and it works great. Just be carefull to sand carefully.
1. Cut a small piece of scrap 6oz cloth 2-3" larger than your logo. Add some lam resin to the the board and spread it around where you want the logo to go. Place your logo and squeegie excess resin. Add patch of cloth over the lam and add more resin. Saturate the cloth and let it gel. Once it has gelled, carefully peel cloth off leaving logo behind. This will leave a raised imprint of the glass above the logo which will “protect” it. Hotcoat the board as per normal procedure. If done correctly this will make it easier to feather the edges around the logo. Smooth and even if done correctly. Remember you are going to do a gloss over most tinted boards so you should end up with a clean job.
2. Same procedure as above but use 4 oz cloth and leave it over the logo. Safer when sanding above the logo but may be harder to get that totally blended look.
- Laminate with one layer of cloth using your tint. Add the logo and a second layer of cloth over the entire board. I have never done this. It would be slightly heavier but could result it a clean look. i’m curious to see if others have used this method.
Method No.1 is best.
Been doing that for 25 years.
If done correctly, smooth as under the glass.
Deck lam and decal has been least of the issues. Always done direct onto foam under two layers of 4oz.
Bottom lam and decal, single layer of 4oz, so, decal direct to foam has “bubbled” a few times. I’ve concluded it was a combination of contaminate(s), not letting resin soak into foam and decal long enough and in one case over heating when sanding. All part of the learning curve, right?
Why the deck OK, but bottom has grief? I’ve put down to quick learning … once I stuffed up the decal on the bottom (which I lam first) I made sure it was completed better when I did the deck on that board. Then I magically make another error on the next board, on the bottom lam, only to pull myself up and do it better on the deck. Bloody frustrating! But, am learning … 
I too have used UV for lamination. I put a small amount <1% of MEKP into a small, seperate container, of resin which has been taken from the UV mixed batch. That way, if for some reason the UV does not fully kick under the decal the MEKP will kick at some point.
wingy, did ya put resin under the decal and saturate it before folding the glass back over and wetting out the whole thing?
if you try and saturate the decal from the top all at once with the lam, you could get bonding issues.
Pirate, probably at one time, no … I recall I did not saturate enough under the decal and on the foam … have since, and think then it was a bond issue due to dirty. I now lay resin on the foam, spread it a bit, drop the decal on it, add a tad more resin to the top of the decal, let it sit and soak in for a half minute or so, then spread, then and check final position … then pull back the cloth and out more resin on the decal spot so it soaks through the cloth while I lay out the resin down the stringer … I start spreading the resin, and work back over the decal area. That seems to have worked fine now, well except for when I over heat the decal area when sanding 
Hows ya back? That package arrive yet?