well i think i glassed one of my boards to light its a 6’11" and 20" something wide …anyway i used 4+4 on top and i am getting some dents and cracks…i just think the cracks are in the hotcoat cause its too thick maybe…but i love the way this board rides so i want it to last so im thinking about putting another layer of 4oz on where my feet go and maybe between…i can do this right on top of the hotcoat right? and is it really going to ad that much weight? i guess i will want to also hotcoat over this patch also…any suggestions?
Hey have,
I’d hand sand the dents with 80 grit. then take cut a piece of 4oz direct size E or S glass to suit and lay it up with Resin Research Epoxy and after it gets gummy in about an hour or so paint some of the same epoxy resin over it as a hot coat. The next day you can block sand it and it’ll be tough as nails. You won’t notice any difference in weight at all. I’ve done this before it works great!
Mahalo, Rich
cool, thats an idea. but im also thinking about the dents i havent got yet …im kinda worried it might turn into one of those boards where the deck is one big dent with a ridge at the stringer…you know? i mean its not like that yet but heel and boney ass dents could add up, i just dont want that to happen to this board… but i dont really like the idea of putting clothh over hotcoat and then hotcoat over that on a large area , so the patch the dent idea does sound pretty good…but the board seems real light for its size so another pound or so shouldnt hurt if it makes it last…
Have, you can glass a patch of 4 or 6 right over you existing resin, if you sand it lightly first. The patch should cover where your heels hit, and also where your knees hit when you are laying on the board paddling.
“butterfly shaped patches”, longer at the rails, shorter at the stringer, are an efficient shape, and can only add about 5 oz to board weight. You can or decide not to hotcoat that patch, more resin is more brittle, so you can just patch with 6oz and NOT hotcoat.
Those dent patches don’t need to overlap the rails, only to the vert rail.
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....but i love the way this board rides so i want it to last so im thinking about putting another layer of 4oz on where my feet go and maybe between..i can do this right on top of the hotcoat right? and is it really going to ad that much weight? i guess i will want to also hotcoat over this patch also...any suggestions?
No. If you like the way the board rides, ride it. By glassing the deck with 4+4, you made yourself a nice little high-performance treat. Thats part of the reason you like how it rides. Trying to fill in each pressure dent with resin and glass will add weight and make little hard places all over the deck that when you step on, will crunch the glass around them. And depending on how much glass you use, you will end up cracking those repairs also. Adding a whole layer of glass to the deck to prevent any more denting will add weight and decrease overall flex of the board. Basically, it will alter the performance of the board in a negative way. I would say ride the f**k out of the thing, I personally respect a nice caved in deck. It means you surf, and your board’s not just a wall hanger. -Carl
yeah exactly, thats what im thinking…its got a certain flex more resin & cloth mean less flex…right,i add that i change the board…its just the first board i made and it rides great , so i wanna ride it for alot longer…so if i can manage not to affect the ride too much id love to make it last longer.
Have, just ride the thing bro’. That’s one reason why it’s so good. Start designing your next one and try to make it LIGHTER. I use one layer of 4 on the bottom and one on the top with a 2/3 patch. Squeegee the crap out of it.- your strength is in the cloth not the resin. You make 'em - so they’re cheap. Sell it after you ride it a while and make TWO more. My boards average about 5 pounds (with fins) or a little less (6’1"x18-1/4"x2-3/16").
Yo Have,
Did you ever do the deck patch on your board? If so how’d it come out. I need to do one on mine as it was only glassed with one layer of cloth and the original owner already broke thru the first layer a couple of times next to the stringer. I like my board’s template and size but it will get too trashed if I don’t do something about it.
Any advice re. use of resin for the deck patch? Should I use lam resin or will sanding resin work?
…Have, in the next board you shape, try to obtain a plug that manage better your thickness…so youll stay with a harder deck…
Pacific,
Lately we have had a lot of business glassing a deck patch on new $1400 Tudors. The Tudors are getting so many pressure dings that the customers are coming to us right after they buy them to get a 4 oz deck patch put on them. We can’t complain its great for our business. They find out that it adds very little weight to the final product!
Troy
Troy,
That’s interesting because I’m figuring you’re talking longboard and some of those do seem to have a pretty solid glass job. I bought a used JT longboard but it was barely ridden and I don’t ride it that often so I wasn’t too concerned. But my used JT fish has all kinds of abuse. That thing must be 6/4 deck.
Have you guys been glassing a patch in the middle for knee paddling or one that extends to the tail?
Pacific
Pacific,
We have glassed deck patches on both the longboards and the retro fish. Most of our work has been with the long boards though. Usually we just glass a center or 3/4 patch but some of the customers want a whole length patch. A 4 oz patch seems to be enough to stop most of the pressure dings. Most of the Tudors they get here have a single layer of 10 oz volan. We asked the customers, "Why don’t you get a deck patch when you order it but they have told us that no matter how they order it they come back with no deck patch. Good for us!
Troy
Troy,
I’m going to try a 6 oz patch that will run about 1/3 down from the nose to the kick pad. I would have gone for 4 oz but the area around the stringer needs some help. I planning to go with the lam coat and sanding coat only.
On a separate note, I have a friend that went from Pacific to Atlantic (Jacksonville) recently. He’s interested in a noserider next and I’m trying to suggest that he check out a solid glassed fiberglass board, not a popout. So I was checking out the Austin site again to send as a reference to my friend and saw you there on the team. I had not noticed the logo under your name earlier. My friend is a little older than you and I and totally stoked on surfing.
Mahalo for all your help.
Pacific
PS I dig the Mexican blanket glass job!
I put a 6oz deck patch on all of my shortboards, but I’m not doing aerials either. Front and tail traction pads will also reduce dents, but I always would still recommend a 6 or 4 oz. patch.
Another trick to reduce dents and delams is to run a wax comb on the blank deck to create tiny grooves about 1/8" deep. Doesn’t look real good with tints or clear lams, but makes a harder surface than just 2 layers of 4 oz over foam.
Did you install the deck patch yourself? I’m planning to do that and wanted to find out if you used the butterfly pattern that was mentioned earlier or an “A” shaped pattern (opposite of butterfly). Not sure it matters but maybe there’s a reason for the butterfly - reduce pressure dents from your hands on the pop-ups.
I personally just use “A” shaped patterns because it’s easy. There’s heart shapes, vee’s, etc. The main thing is not create a straight line across the board which will become a stress area when the board is flexed. I put the patch in as a sandwich between the deck layers. I also put them on when repairing boards that have the typical glass cracks along the stringer. Fill the dents in the deck before you apply the patch.