Deep Design: Daniel Thomson on Surfboards, Physics and Simmons

[doc]

F#ck me in the teeth, as us offshore fishing guys say. Well said.

Granted, this guy (thomsen) is doing bozo ‘science’ and nobody since Terry Hendricks has done real science at the ‘surf problem’, with strange and perverse things like fuc#ing real number readouts that nobody wants to deal with.

So, what is the mainstream of surf? Can you say total dil&dos? That is, a sad imitation of the real thing that get thrashed around a lot but really isn’t, no matter what those who use 'em want to believe .
;
My ex-wife specifically included. Glad I don’t have to pay for her batteries. It’s good to be good, y’know?

Let me di(k around with your minds for a moment : how fast does a surfcraft go on a wave? Really? Give me a real readout, say a GPS or something in real feet per second or miles per hour. Can’t do it? Sucks to be you. Dr. Terry Hendricks did.

For real, not just ‘duude’ ( which is a term that means the genetailia of a male horse) , ‘it was fakin gnarly’ .

Numbers. Actual freakin’ readouts .Got any? Okay, show us.

Yeah. What, me, dissapointed? Yep. Again, Dr. Hendricks led the way, did real numbers and the rest of us (me included) did d!ck. And what’s sad is that we are not stupid people in our real lives- we wouldn’t buy, say, a car on the pitiful and questionable so-called 'data ’ we get on surfcraft.

So, folks, step up. Real numbers, please. And- would you dare to get on an airplane that was as poorly engineered as any surfboard?

doc… 1+1= ?

[haavard]

@$1

the (tomo)board i ride is a LOT more pivoty(?) and snappy than any 5’11/6’0 i’ve ever ridden, incredibly high performance surfing orientated, very different to a traditional shortboard, but you can still do the nice slow turns they do if that’s what floats your boat,

the biggest difference i found and one that almost everyone doesn’t seem to grasp from the numerous video clips on the net, is the lack of effort it takes from the rider in comparison to a shortboard,ease of use?

Just out of curiosity, the other board that you compare with, where they also short, parallel outlined with a wide pod or are you compering apples and oranges.

 

I for one find it hard to take a surfboard maker seriously who claim to use engineering principles but cannot get the basic description of bernollis principle straight, let alone seem to use these principles. http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/hydrofoils-and-lift

[TaylorO]

I for one find it hard to take a surfboard maker seriously who claim to
use engineering principles but cannot get the basic description of
bernollis principle straight,

Hmmm…   I feel you on that one Haavard.

[Oddonein]

Regardless of the shapers BS sales patter, the wakeboards certainly do some nice twirlys

http://vimeo.com/m/50519476

[stoneburner]

Science is a philosophy.

Do not confuse the philosophy with those who profess to be practitioners.

Junk in = Junk out …

[ghettorat]

@$1

I for one find it hard to take a surfboard maker seriously who claim to
use engineering principles but cannot get the basic description of
bernollis principle straight,

Hmmm…   I feel you on that one Haavard.

 

That’s because most of them are full of crap, and ego.  There essentially soap bubbles, and nothing more.

[ambrose]

 

0ctober 7 2012

along the beach behind the wailua golf course

 

 

took my wife out for her birthday yesterday.

You missed it. It was an elitist extravaganza.

nobody out, Gin clear,

musta been 80 = degrees water

inconsistant she caught two waves

was too hot went in to put up her mat

and went swimmin’ I stayed out 

paddled over to the backwash inside left 

surfed maybe 4 waves,then out came

a guy named los and the first thing he said was ;

“I hope you dont mind me coming out to surf with you”

I welcomed him and told him the name of the spot

the history of the name and the name

of the oldest guys I knew that surfed there.

and that the tide just changed

and I just wanted to catch one more.

the waves stopped coming through.

he had a board a friend had made him

he didn’t know it was a paipo board…

I caught one more went in

then we started up the car 

as I drove off I waved from the bluff

and he waved back a specialtime and place shared.

thanks to dale solomonson.

…ambrose…

being washed up

and full of HA

alo ha discoverers

all our ancestors appreciated

thrill of discovery.

[kayu]

I havn’t seen anything innovative in board design for years…the expertise in design has become the blending of well known and proven design aspects , by people who understand how to blend them for specific performance…there’s a materials and process revolution happening (of sorts), but that too, seems to be leading back to proven materials…the process is emerging as the new frontier ,and that also seems to be relying on the knowledge and craftmanship that has been around for a long time…the day we stop looking back , is the day we stop going forward.

[thrailkill]

@$1

I havn’t seen anything innovative in board design for years…the expertise in design has become the blending of well known and proven design aspects , by people who understand how to blend them for specific performance…there’s a materials and process revolution happening (of sorts), but that too, seems to be leading back to proven materials…the process is emerging as the new frontier ,and that also seems to be relying on the knowledge and craftmanship that has been around for a long time…the day we stop looking back , is the day we stop going forward.

[stoneburner]

We build on the discoveries of those who went before.

One becomes obsolete when one believes there is nothing new to learn.

Innovation halts.

Many made wings but few could fly …