To all the master out there that constantly visit this awesome sight. Please define for me 1)Chine (when refering to rails) & 2)S deck. That was the short one. Templates: What is the best way to get all the aspects on paper tranfered to a accurate template constuction process? I am using masonite- is this a resonable option?
To all the master out there that constantly visit this awesome sight. > Please define for me 1)Chine (when refering to rails) & 2)S deck. That > was the short one. Templates: What is the best way to get all the aspects > on paper tranfered to a accurate template constuction process? I am using > masonite- is this a resonable option? Chine is a bevel along the bottom of the rail. It can be deep or shallow, wide or narrow, blended or sharp. An S-deck is a hump in the middle to rear area of the deckline, as opposed to an even curved deck which is flat across. S-decks are usually humped both ways (insert your own off-color joke here,)lengthwise and laterally. Its a way of adding volume. When you combine it with a thin rail, it still can be sensitive. Use 1/8" tempered masonite, smooth both sides, and don’t breath the dust as you sand it…not good stuff. There are many other alternatives as well. That’s what use, just out of habit.
Chine is a bevel along the bottom of the rail. It can be deep or shallow, > wide or narrow, blended or sharp.>>> An S-deck is a hump in the middle to rear area of the deckline, as opposed > to an even curved deck which is flat across. S-decks are usually humped > both ways (insert your own off-color joke here,)lengthwise and laterally. > Its a way of adding volume. When you combine it with a thin rail, it still > can be sensitive.>>> Use 1/8" tempered masonite, smooth both sides, and don’t breath the > dust as you sand it…not good stuff. There are many other alternatives as > well. That’s what use, just out of habit. Cheers Paul. What about the creating an accurate outline on the templates? Is it just a matter of measuring the lentgth, nose and tail widths and designs, and then just sketching the outline until it resemble something I’ve scribbled on paper? I notice that the appropriate computer program would give me infinite width measurements along the length so I could then play dot-to-dot, but I’m without this luxury at present! Whats you thought?
Cheers Paul. What about the creating an accurate outline on the templates? > Is it just a matter of measuring the lentgth, nose and tail widths and > designs, and then just sketching the outline until it resemble something > I’ve scribbled on paper? I notice that the appropriate computer program > would give me infinite width measurements along the length so I could then > play dot-to-dot, but I’m without this luxury at present! Whats you > thought? My thought is that making a functional and beautiful template curve is pure art, or almost pure art. Within the parameters of length, width, wide point placment, nose and tail measurements (1 foot up and back, repectively) a lot can happen…or go wrong. Just kepp fiddling until you get something you like. If you are really anal, and who among us who builds boards isn’t, keep a roll of butcher paper on hand so you can trace out a full outline of what you are doing on wood as you progress. You can really see what you like and dislike that way.
My thought is that making a functional and beautiful template curve is > pure art, or almost pure art. Within the parameters of length, width, wide > point placment, nose and tail measurements (1 foot up and back, > repectively) a lot can happen…or go wrong. Just kepp fiddling until you > get something you like. If you are really anal, and who among us who > builds boards isn’t, keep a roll of butcher paper on hand so you can trace > out a full outline of what you are doing on wood as you progress. You can > really see what you like and dislike that way. Cheer Paul. Your advice is well recieved.
There is an easy, low tech way to connect the dots with a smooth curve. Its called a batten. Just find a uniformly flexable length of material (wood or plastic). It needs to be longer than your template. Fix your measured points with nails and bend the batten between the nails…nice smooth curve. It might take a couple of people to do it though. You’ll also see that extra points can really change the outline shape.
theres a bunch on this in the archives but i use a fiberglass sail batten as well. it’s like 3/8th or 1/4" round stock. takes a little practice and some extra hands but works pretty good. i got mine at a sailshop for like 6 or 8 bucks.