So i got this Dewey Weber for free from a guy that found it underneath a house. Its REALLy rough, i was wondering if i should restore it by using resin pigment to cover the brownness of the board. Any recommendations on if i should or should not attempt this? Thanks
It has a yellow fin that is broken off halfway. Idk if it was a hatchet fin or what. I was thinking the same thing about stripping the glass, that why i was thinking that if i just sand it and fill the void then pigment it, then at least that would make it look better. I am pretty much using this a test project for restorations, so if all goes to hell i wont be upset
so is this going to be too much of a challenge? I think it would be a good board to start and practice on as far as restoration work goes. I was also thinking about stripping down the glass off the board, filling the void of bad foam, putting a new tailblock on it, then doing a resin pigment of 6oz cloth over the whole board. Any information you guys have would be greatly appreciated.
If you strip all the glass you’ll probably find that a lot of foam will go with it. It will then no longer be a Weber, but a recycled blank. Some boards are just too far gone to warrant the time and expense of a restoration. Stock Webers are very common. It’s not like you have a rare board, there.
What does it have for a fin? Can’t tell from your pics.
Picture?
If you want to practice, so to speak…
I would fix all the dings, sand and clean it as best you can, then do a pigment job + clear coat. It would at least be rideable. The only issue is the fin. Is it plastic or fiberglass? That might be the toughest part of the job.
I dont have picture of the fin but it is fiberglass. Thanks for the info too
Same process as I have prescribed in recent threads/posts on restoration. Sand it all really well. Take photos of the process to document the boards' authenticity. The laminate/logo is an easy one to reproduce. Buy a Weber sticker on the internet and reproduce a one color black or a black/ red background rice paper laminate on you printer. Fill and repair all dings. If the stringer is damamged or discolored you may want to faux finish the stringer in a wood grain. Otherwise leave it. Again document with photos. If you faux the stringer seal it with some type of water base sealer. Hotcoat and sand the entire board down to at least 220. No scratches!. The entire board should feel the same texture to touch. Paint the brown/yellowed foam with an off-white latex flat acrylic paint(interior preferred, less acrylic) that will look as close as possible to foam. Very lightly sand the paint . Again; No scratches! Glass/laminate the board with 4 oz. or whatever you prefer with your new lam/logo. Hotcoat, sand , gloss and polish. Reair or reproduce the fin during the ding repair phase.
Repair the dings. Replace the fin. Give it a good hard sand to get rid of all the old gloss coat resin. Re gloss, wet and dry sand and polish it. You will be supprised how good it will look. The more you do to hide all those old dings and stains the less valuable the board will become to a collector or anybody else who knows about old boards. Assuming that you may want to sell it some time down the track. If the board was covered with repairs done with Q-cell, or there are large areas or missing glass that needs replacing, which is very hard to match. Then I would say do a pigment job. Non of this is visable. So I would be inclined to leave it as is. As original as possible. platty.