I’ve only been surfing 6 years. I started out riding a longboard, but have been gravitating toward shorter boards over the past few years. I live at a beach break, so that’s what I surf. I’m finding that with a shorter board I’m having more fun even when it’s junky out, trying to make little sections, but also, I like the lighter/agile feeling of a shorter board. I think it’s more a statement about my skill level than anything, but frequently when I have my 9’6” out in sketchy conditions, it’s like I’m just along for the ride because the board has so much momentum. To me, that feeling is awesome in clean waist high peelers, but I do not find it fun in fast beach break where I’m always waiting for the closeout.
Currently, my “short board” is a Murphy Egg (sorta) with the following dimensions: 7’ x 16 ½ x 21 ½ x 15 and 2 ¾” thick. It has fairly mild rocker, and a thruster setup. I have been trying to surf this board exclusively for the past couple of months, and am getting much better at it. I still have a long way to go, but I can catch as many waves as I could with my longboard, and while I’m still working out how to “drive” the thing really well, I have a blast on it. Because of the smaller/lighter feeling of the board, I’m not as worried about getting tossed in a closeout as I was on my log, and I feel more in control of the board versus the board being in control of me. Again, I’m sure it’s just my skill level on a longboard.
I am 41, weigh 175 without a wetsuit, and surf 2-4 times a week year round – except for when there are huge winter swells. I am not a big wave surfer, and honestly, head high is about my limit. I would like another shortish board that is well suited for beach breaks, and for when I’m feeling a bit lazier and want an easy paddle, or just want to cruise and make nice S-turns. Here’s what I’ve gathered from reading countless threads here & elsewhere:
-A traditional twin fin fish would be shorter, thicker and slightly wider, and might be as floaty as my current board. I’m thinking it would paddle pretty easily, but be really skatey and best suited to clean chest high or smaller waves. I also think it might be beyond my current skill level.
-A quad fish would be the same as the fish but a bit more forgiving in the turns and not as skatey. Also, it may have a bit more pulled in shape than the classic fish, depending on the shaper. My impression of a fish too is that it’s more about planing than pumping, more about going with the flow, than trying to make flow.
-A true thruster would be shorter, narrower and thinner, would not have nearly the float of my current board and would require more user input than my current board to make it do anything at all.
-A “hybrid” would probably be a bit longer than my current board, maybe thicker, probably about the same width, but a more pulled in profile. I’m guessing it would paddle about the same as my current board, maybe be able to handle a bit bigger/steeper waves, but feel a bit slower in the turns and not plane as well as my current board.
-Old school single fin. I really don’t know much about these to know how they would be different.
I realize any opinions you care to share are just that, opinions, and that’s great. I’m really just trying to make sure I understand the differences in the various shapes so that when/if I go talk to a shaper or somebody in a surf shop, I’ve got a decent base of knowledge to work from. I also went to increase my chances of getting a board that really does ride differently than what I currently have.
Lastly - it could be that my current board will do everything I need a short board to do, and I just need to get my skill level up. If you think that’s the obvious truth, well, feel free to point it out as well
Thanks very much -
David