I’m planning on using the clark 10’1" Y-3stix (triple stringer) and shaping the following: 10’L, 23.5W, 19" nose, 16" pintail, 3.5 inches thick. I would like try a slight concave in the nose for noseriding. If I don’t do the pintail I’ll do a square tail with a wood tailblock. My inspiration is Takayama “T” or double ender and some tylers that I’ve seen around but not counting on producing anything nearly as nice as that but want to try anyway. How do you think this would work (I’m 190lbs/6feet) and what’s the best way to make my template? What weight blank should I go for? I like heaver boards but not too loggy. Dunnoh if I want a glass-on or box and haven’t decided if I would do my own glassing or bring it to a glassing shop. I would go for the heavy volan glass.
those dimensions sound good. it think it would be a fun board. you might want to make it 3.25 thick though. the 10’1 Y is a good blank. ive used it twice, and had my last board made on one, nothing bad to say about it. the rocker is perfect. anyway, i would use a supergreen foam blank, make it a square tail (7 inch block). glass it in all 6oz (making it not so loggy), and use a finbox… especially if you do it yourself. if you glass the fin on and its in the wrong spot, thats it. at least with the box you can make some adjustments. if that were my board, i would keep the rails really straight, glass it all in 10oz volan cloth (2 layers each side) on a classic or green foam blank, with a glass on 10 inch fin wayyyyy back, minimal rocker (a little extra kick in the last 10 inches of the tail), a well blended and subtle 1/8 - 3/16 nose concave going back about 45 inches, soft rails all around 50-50 or 60-40, and a slightly rolled bottom (more so in the tail). as far as how the board would work. i think it would be a paddle like a champ and be a wave magnet. with that blank and a little concave in the nose it should noseride exceptionally well. it will be a little slow and piggy, but TONS of fun. -GOOD LUCK -steve>>> I’m planning on using the clark 10’1" Y-3stix (triple stringer) and > shaping the following: 10’L, 23.5W, 19" nose, 16" pintail, 3.5 > inches thick. I would like try a slight concave in the nose for > noseriding. If I don’t do the pintail I’ll do a square tail with a wood > tailblock.>>> My inspiration is Takayama “T” or double ender and some tylers > that I’ve seen around but not counting on producing anything nearly as > nice as that but want to try anyway.>>> How do you think this would work (I’m 190lbs/6feet) and what’s the best > way to make my template? What weight blank should I go for? I like heaver > boards but not too loggy.>>> Dunnoh if I want a glass-on or box and haven’t decided if I would do my > own glassing or bring it to a glassing shop. I would go for the heavy > volan glass.
I would stay away from doing a triple stringer for your first board. It might be difficult for you to match the rail shape in foam with the rail shape of the ends of the two side stringers. But if you are not afraid, go for it. I just thought it might be something you have not considered.
I’m planning on using the clark 10’1" Y-3stix (triple stringer) and > shaping the following: 10’L, 23.5W, 19" nose, 16" pintail, 3.5 > inches thick. I would like try a slight concave in the nose for > noseriding. If I don’t do the pintail I’ll do a square tail with a wood > tailblock.>>> My inspiration is Takayama “T” or double ender and some tylers > that I’ve seen around but not counting on producing anything nearly as > nice as that but want to try anyway.>>> How do you think this would work (I’m 190lbs/6feet) and what’s the best > way to make my template? What weight blank should I go for? I like heaver > boards but not too loggy.>>> Dunnoh if I want a glass-on or box and haven’t decided if I would do my > own glassing or bring it to a glassing shop. I would go for the heavy > volan glass. If noseriding is the objective a 6-8" sq. tail is a notch better than pintail(. Three-stringers are gonna complicate things, so plan on a lot of back and forth foam/stringer sanding. Classic Foam density is mo’bettah for pressure dings,and noseriding counter-weight. Volan will help seal this big effort but cause cutlap taping hassles. Good luck…A sweet 10’ noserider is a gem to own! Templetes can be drawn from existing surfboard using a pencil taped to a small vitamin bottle(to stablise) and a piece of 1/8" masonite. Bribing a shop clerk($$$$)or beachgoing board owner,and trace outline of desired shape carefully. Lines are lines copied from copies of the Bing Nuuhiwa Noseriders anyway(da kine). Can somebody explain 1/4 templetes to this guy, I can’t put it into logical words to pass-on.
You might wanna try this shape. It has a rounded pin X 15.6" tail, 23.5" width, offset 3.4" forward, 18.8" rounded point nose. I got it by refining your shape on 3D CAD. It looks good. The rocker below has slightly progressive tail rocker, so you can add some turning V. Tail rocker is 3.1% of board length. I like the above poster’s suggestion of a 3.25" thickness. The below rail cross section will yield 3.25 thickness with your thick glass. The rail line is .85" from the bottom foam with a 1.2"tuck. This board will catch waves easily enough, but it will turn well, and drop/turn in juice. More performer than noserider. Add some concave for noseriding. x , Outline , Rocker 0.0 , 0.00 , 3.72 0.0 , 0.00 , 3.72 0.5 , 1.37 , 3.63 1.0 , 2.11 , 3.55 2.0 , 3.15 , 3.39 3.0 , 3.94 , 3.24 4.0 , 4.59 , 3.09 5.0 , 5.15 , 2.95 6.0 , 5.65 , 2.82 7.0 , 6.09 , 2.69 8.0 , 6.49 , 2.57 9.0 , 6.86 , 2.45 10.0 , 7.20 , 2.34 11.0 , 7.51 , 2.23 12.0 , 7.80 , 2.13 13.0 , 8.07 , 2.03 14.0 , 8.32 , 1.93 15.0 , 8.56 , 1.84 16.0 , 8.78 , 1.75 17.0 , 8.99 , 1.66 18.0 , 9.18 , 1.58 19.0 , 9.36 , 1.50 20.0 , 9.54 , 1.42 21.0 , 9.70 , 1.34 22.0 , 9.85 , 1.27 23.0 , 9.99 , 1.20 24.0 , 10.13 , 1.13 25.0 , 10.25 , 1.07 26.0 , 10.37 , 1.01 27.0 , 10.49 , 0.95 28.0 , 10.59 , 0.89 29.0 , 10.69 , 0.83 30.0 , 10.78 , 0.78 31.0 , 10.87 , 0.73 32.0 , 10.95 , 0.68 33.0 , 11.02 , 0.63 34.0 , 11.09 , 0.58 35.0 , 11.16 , 0.54 36.0 , 11.22 , 0.50 37.0 , 11.28 , 0.45 38.0 , 11.33 , 0.42 39.0 , 11.38 , 0.38 40.0 , 11.42 , 0.34 41.0 , 11.46 , 0.31 42.0 , 11.50 , 0.28 43.0 , 11.53 , 0.25 44.0 , 11.56 , 0.22 45.0 , 11.59 , 0.20 46.0 , 11.61 , 0.17 47.0 , 11.64 , 0.15 48.0 , 11.65 , 0.13 49.0 , 11.67 , 0.11 50.0 , 11.69 , 0.09 51.0 , 11.70 , 0.07 52.0 , 11.71 , 0.06 53.0 , 11.72 , 0.05 54.0 , 11.73 , 0.03 55.0 , 11.73 , 0.02 56.0 , 11.74 , 0.02 57.0 , 11.74 , 0.01 58.0 , 11.75 , 0.00 59.0 , 11.75 , 0.00 60.0 , 11.75 , 0.00 61.0 , 11.75 , 0.00 62.0 , 11.75 , 0.00 63.0 , 11.75 , 0.00 64.0 , 11.75 , 0.01 65.0 , 11.75 , 0.02 66.0 , 11.75 , 0.02 67.0 , 11.75 , 0.03 68.0 , 11.75 , 0.05 69.0 , 11.75 , 0.06 70.0 , 11.75 , 0.08 71.0 , 11.75 , 0.09 72.0 , 11.75 , 0.11 73.0 , 11.75 , 0.13 74.0 , 11.75 , 0.15 75.0 , 11.74 , 0.18 76.0 , 11.74 , 0.20 77.0 , 11.74 , 0.23 78.0 , 11.74 , 0.26 79.0 , 11.73 , 0.29 80.0 , 11.72 , 0.33 81.0 , 11.72 , 0.36 82.0 , 11.71 , 0.40 83.0 , 11.70 , 0.44 84.0 , 11.68 , 0.48 85.0 , 11.67 , 0.53 86.0 , 11.65 , 0.58 87.0 , 11.63 , 0.63 88.0 , 11.60 , 0.68 89.0 , 11.57 , 0.73 90.0 , 11.54 , 0.79 91.0 , 11.50 , 0.85 92.0 , 11.46 , 0.91 93.0 , 11.41 , 0.98 94.0 , 11.35 , 1.04 95.0 , 11.29 , 1.12 96.0 , 11.22 , 1.19 97.0 , 11.14 , 1.27 98.0 , 11.05 , 1.35 99.0 , 10.95 , 1.44 100.0 , 10.84 , 1.53 101.0 , 10.72 , 1.62 102.0 , 10.58 , 1.72 103.0 , 10.43 , 1.82 104.0 , 10.27 , 1.93 105.0 , 10.08 , 2.04 106.0 , 9.88 , 2.16 107.0 , 9.65 , 2.29 108.0 , 9.40 , 2.42 109.0 , 9.12 , 2.56 110.0 , 8.81 , 2.71 111.0 , 8.47 , 2.87 112.0 , 8.08 , 3.05 113.0 , 7.64 , 3.23 114.0 , 7.15 , 3.43 115.0 , 6.58 , 3.65 116.0 , 5.92 , 3.90 117.0 , 5.13 , 4.18 118.0 , 4.15 , 4.51 119.0 , 2.82 , 4.92 119.5 , 1.85 , 5.18 120.0 , 0.00 , 5.52 RAIL: Width , Deck , Bottom 0 , 2.20 , -0.90 1 , 2.20 , -0.90 2 , 2.20 , -0.90 3 , 2.20 , -0.90 4 , 2.19 , -0.90 5 , 2.16 , -0.90 6 , 2.12 , -0.90 7 , 2.06 , -0.90 8.5 , 1.87 , -0.90 9 , 1.78 , -0.90 9.5 , 1.66 , -0.90 10 , 1.52 , -0.90 10.5 , 1.32 , -0.89 11 , 1.06 , -0.81 10.7 , 1.23 , -0.87 10.8 , 1.18 , -0.86 10.9 , 1.12 , -0.84 11 , 1.06 , -0.81 11.1 , 0.99 , -0.78 11.2 , 0.92 , -0.73 11.3 , 0.84 , -0.68 11.4 , 0.74 , -0.62 11.5 , 0.63 , -0.54 11.6 , 0.49 , -0.43 11.7 , 0.29 , -0.25 11.75 , 0.00 , -0.00
i think Surfhungry was referring to what i call a spin template. anyway, its a piece of masonite, plywood, cardboard, posterboard, whatever. the overall size of the thing is 1/4 the size of the full board. one side of the template has the outline of the nose to the middle of the board. the other side of the template has the middle to the tail outline. that way you lay it down, trace the nose to mid, then flip it over and trace down to the tail. saves some space and material for making templates. hope i explained that ok
That rail template’s rail line is .9" above the bottom foam. I forgot, I changed it when I saw how thich the foil was. .9" is better for that thickness, more versatile.
That rail template’s rail line is .9" above the bottom foam. I > forgot, I changed it when I saw how thich the foil was. .9" is better > for that thickness, more versatile. Noodle, you crack me up. If I gave you the hight and weight of my old lady could you give me her ultimate shape? Don’t get me wrong, I think your "running the numbers’ is great. I have used your numbers to make a templet and it worked great…keep those numbers coming!
I tried that on my better half, but she said the glass was too itchy.