"ding" I hate to do it but.. Interlux Epiglass vs West Systems

General Discussion
1

I have two options Interlux or West.

I am finishing off some wood surfboards, no glass cloth. Please advise which resin and why and may the best resin win.

temp -

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Fiberglass_Epoxy_Resins-INTERLUX_EPIGLASS_EPOXY_RESIN_SYSTEMS.html

2

Aren’t both systems for boats?

The West stuff I’ve used is not so gin clear. And interlux makes great boat paint, but what is the Epiglass? is it like the Perfection series paint…is it an LP type paint. If it’s clear LP it will look great, but it’s not very flexible. LP will be great aganist scuffs, and scratches, but will chip off unless it over a rock hard surface (like 30 layers of Fiberglass)

So unless your using Resin research epoxy, or some kind of varnish like spar. (and I like the old school spar, not the water based poly spar) I think you going to get a surface that will either be cosmetically flawed, or structurally flawed?

Why do you have to use boat stuff?

3

Its basically all I can get - the boatyard had some spar varnish but only in small quantities. He has both west and epiglass in gallons now.

4

Epiglass and west are very similar old-skool boat epoxies. They will work but they will brown with UV like it’s no-one’s business.

5

I have used West for over 30 years. If you go to the Westsystems web sight they will tell you what to use and how to. You are useing it on wood surfboards so ambering is not a problem. In fact it is desirable. You use 105 resin and 207 special hardener. This is how I do it- 4 coats of epoxy (207) 4 coats sparvarnish. Min wax products are not sparvarnish (don’t use them) .Epoxy is not intended to be used as a topcoat by itself. If your finish is turning brown it is because you are usesing the wrong hardener and not topping with spar varnish. Learn to do it right and you only have to do it once! As far as Epiglass, I have never used it. This paddle blade was done with 4 coats of west 207 and 4 coats of spar varnish.

Aloha Wood_Ogre

6

This is a balsa with redwood board done with West 207. The same amber as a sparvarnish. No it will not turn brown! One warning if you use balsa wood and finish with West 207 then sparvarnish it will be easy to dent and ding!

Aloha Wood_Ogre

7

Varnish is indeed the answer to using west and epifanes. Considering more modern resins that are usable as a top coat I prefer to use the latter and avoid the extra (cost) step of a nice PU clear varnish.

8

Great feedback guys, thanks. I will head off to the yard tomorrow if possible (it’s an all day trip!).

Mahalo

9

good one wood ogre

been saying for years there nothing wrong with west systems if the hardener is fresh

roy uses it to

still why not use glass cloth

its only glass after all

10

Hi Wood Ogre

Will the varnish eventually flake off?

Will you then need to sand off and reapply varnish?

Thanks

Ant

11

Varnish is a complicated subject. First by useing west epoxy you are building a waterproof coating and impact resistance. The varnish that goes over that is to protect from the suns UV. First we must eliminate most hardware store varnishes because they are a consumer product that dosent hold up over the long run.MinWax products are made because they are cheep to make and are marketed to make money. Good varnish costs money! I would not use a polyurethane or a spar urethane because they don’t hold up over the long term and when they fail they are difficult to repair and must be removed. They do not take impact well and if a little water gets under them they will peel off and the dings can not be repaired. I would use a spar varnish because it can take impact well with out peeling and can be repaired by sanding and putting on a couple more coats . How long they last depends on how well you take care of them. You can recoat a spar varnish finish once a year for 15 or 20 years without stripping it off. Or if your wood surfboard is kept in a board bag you may never have to re coat it and only need to re coat the dings. An alkyd spar varnish is good but a Phenolic spar varnish is better but more expensive. Alkyds are also mixed with polyurthane to improve the flexability and UV resistance. Spar Urathane, again I would stay away from anything with polyurathane in it because it is not very repairable. I do use polyurathane but not for outdoor use. I do use Minwax product every time they come out with something knew to see if they got a winner. So far they loose on all accounts except I like there furniture wax for waxing my saw table and for finishing somethings on my wood lathe. If you are getting your epoxy from a boat yard , the spar varnish they have is most likely a phenolic resin. They can not aford to have call backs because of cheap finishes. About sparvarnish , It dries slow most of them say you can sand and recoat in 24 hours but I have found here in hawaii that is more like 48 hours. The west epoxy you can do 2 coats a day sand the next day and do two more. Aloha Wood_Ogre

12

Hi Wood Ogre

Thanks for a great reply and for being so open with sharing knowledge!

Ant

13

can we see the boards?

14

Yeah Thomas, soon but perhaps not as soon as I planned. Will be traveling for another week then back home to get them coated.

Children and emergencies again.

At least the resin will be waiting at the house when I get back there.

I decided on west for these two then I might try the lux, not sure yet.

15

I hate to hear about emergencies. I hope everything works out good.

16

I have used West System, MAS and System 3 Silvertip epoxies for similar applications. My favorite is System 3: No blush, best wet out and brushing characteristics and absolutely clear color. MAS is a close second, but did not flow quite as well for hot coating. West is a very distant 3rd. It does blush, and it has an amber tint that really changes the color of the wood. What I disliked the most was the lousy wet-out and poor brushing and self-leveling characteristics. I ordered System 3 from Fiberglass Supply and had the material in hand in less than 3 days.