EAST COAST SURFERS GET REAL WAVES!

A friend of mine I grew up surfing in Huntington Beach here on the West Coast now lives on the East Coast in North Carolina. These are the pitures he sent me of the waves they are surfing this week-end. I thought it would be more crowded?

 


Though I dont have any pictures to share (too busy surfing) We caught it really good here in St Augustine today also. Head high to head and a half this morning and offshores until around 1300 this afternoon.

I am pretty well toast after an all day session.

Going back in the mronin for some perfect little pellers on the 10'8" tristringer.

STOKED!

T

Yea,I surfed for 6 hours,I finally got my proboxes dialed in on my 6’6 quad which made for some really great rides.The slight drift kept the crowd thinned out too…

Needless to say it was a little bigger here tonight after the wind switched.  And only 42 guys fighting for a peak with enough waves for a dozen surfers.

we had a shite winter then copped this swell two weeks ago…on the east coast…

 

http://www.coastalwatch.com/news/article.aspx?articleId=7887&cateId=26&display=0&title=August+13%2C+2010.+Black+Friday

Here is another Earl shot taken on thursday as it approached the N.C coast.

A quick summation of crowds in florida. If there's a parking lot, it's a surf spot. If you have to walk to the break, you surf alone.

Here's a shot of Earl swell in St augustine at a non-surf spot.

south carolina even got waves!

I see alot of waves in these pics with no one out??  And the people I do see in the pictures are all in Hawaiian shirts on the beach or piers? except for the 2 or 3 guys line the line up.

Don't hurricane swells kick out a ton of waves?  you mention 42 guys in a spot that holds 12 surfers....Shit welcome to my world...but at least you don't get a set waves every 20-30 mins. with only 2-3 waves per set.

Nice waves...On one out. Wish that was here right now.

"A quick summation of crowds in florida. If there's a parking lot, it's a surf spot. If you have to walk to the break, you surf alone."

Yep.  25 mins from my house I can surf completely alone...or maybe I can see another surfer within a hundred yards of me... while 15 mins from my house I can share waves with 40 people if I want to.  There are entire stretches of beach that go ignored all around me.  I live on the southeast edge of a city with a 1.1 million + population.  Don't tell anybody.

oh yeah, and its boardshorts here most likely about 8 months out of the year typically; it ain't perfect, but worse things have happened to me.

Waves still coming here, small clean fun today....with a possible uptick this afternoon

 

 

 

SE NC Thursday-5’10 Single Fin

[quote="$1"]

I see alot of waves in these pics with no one out??  And the people I do see in the pictures are all in Hawaiian shirts on the beach or piers? except for the 2 or 3 guys line the line up.

Don't hurricane swells kick out a ton of waves?  you mention 42 guys in a spot that holds 12 surfers....Shit welcome to my world...but at least you don't get a set waves every 20-30 mins. with only 2-3 waves per set.

Nice waves...On one out. Wish that was here right now.

[/quote]

 

The problem in my town last evening was there were only a couple of spots with ridable waves.  Everyplace else was like a washing machine.  The best waves of this swell happened last night durring the night.  The timing of the storm wasn't right as it sped past.  Danielle was a much better swell than Earle for us.

"If there's a parking lot, it's a surf spot."

I'm not knocking the waves or surfers back east.  It just struck me that's exactly the opposite of one group's slogan on the west coast. 

 

 

Thanks to all that posted those shots of Hurricane surf.  I can recall surfing hurricane swells up and down the east coast. a good day on the Outer banks More good days in Jersey Surfing a place called Gas Chamber off the steel Pier in Atlantic City. More days at my home breaks on Long beach island. Then one trip as we followed a storm north I think it was 1976 caught excellent waves in Rhode Island

Pier surf:

Theres no one surfing because the waves are just closeouts - they only look good for one frame.  Also east coast surfers dont go out if its over waist high - the few west coasters who got dragged over here must be the people you see in the lineup......   even the blind squirrel gets a nut every once in a while :)

a couple pics from pt judith. crowded as hell, but fun. slept in the car thursday night, woke up to a full parking lot…at 6 am I counted 47 cars… Friday was in the water most of the day, mostly 10’ faces, got gradually windier and more stormlike. crashed in the car early, woke up saturday to sunshine. Just as crowded, waves a little overhead…beautiful day. Got out of the water around noon, counted more than 100 heads in the lineup within sight of the bluff. I’m sure it’s nothing like west coast winter, but I’m over here, and this is good enough for me. Took out a couple of boards i made and my short, wide twin still my favorite.[img_assist|nid=1053664|title=friday sept 3|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=480|height=640][img_assist|nid=1053665|title=friday sept 3, midday|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=480|height=640][img_assist|nid=1053666|title=sat sept 4|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=480]

spot on... description

i biked from my house to sawgrass , and was pretty much alone,

drove the to  poles and the pier..packed

but it was fun...even this morning...

no complaints here.

next!

Friday was the best day here. Thursday too big and out of control (swell from 928 milibar cyclone 300 miles away has little chance to ''sort'').

This pic (stolen from local site) shows what Friday was like where I live.

 

icarumba!